new p3at

Discussion in 'P-3AT' started by justintendo, Dec 16, 2009.

  1. justintendo

    justintendo New Member

    13
    Dec 16, 2009
    i got my girlfriend a new p3at....seems like a nice little pistol...first thing i noticed was the interior of barrel has a lot of pits in it, with a nice little rotational grind marks about midway down it..

    i decided to clean it real well, and shoot it some...reclean, looks the same
    after firing it some..maybe 15 or so...the firing pin now fails to make contact with the primer completely at times...sometimes you have to puill the trigger 5 times to go off, sometimes it goes thru a whole clip ok ...i have cleaned the gun pretty well, but havent gone past a field strip...cleaned with hoppes and lubed with a drop or so of mobil one here and there...

    i guess i need to dissemble the slide to see if the pin is gummed up....
    kind of a crappy nib buying experience...especially the barrel...its pretty obvious to normal eyesight its rough....i know it will be fixed if i cant figure it out, but i will have to wait till after holidays anyway....
    i like this pistol otherwise, lol...its fun to shoot, even with big hands...hopefully if i dont become soured with it, i would like to look at aq pf9 for myself...gotta get this reliable for her first tho
     
  2. raymac1215

    raymac1215 New Member

    145
    Dec 31, 2008
    I would be right on the phone with Kel-Tec !! Maybe they'll replace the pistol. Sounds very disappointing. I have 2 that have been perfect from day one,but it appears quality control needs some attention. Make sure you release the trigger all the way or you will get a light strike. Hope things work out for you. There are a lot of experts on this site that will help you.
     

  3. David_S

    David_S New Member

    64
    Dec 7, 2009
    Just curious how you found the accuracy with the pits in the barrel? Not that it should be acceptable just wondering if it has any effect. Mine looked good and after a quick  F&B its been great.
     
  4. justintendo

    justintendo New Member

    13
    Dec 16, 2009
    i havent shot it much after the first 50 rounds, since it now has a ftf problem...but i havent been able to get very good accuracy yet..the pits kinda look like cheap chrome bubbles...little tiny pits evenly spread over whole barrel
     
  5. billjohnso20

    billjohnso20 Active Member

    Dec 7, 2008
    Justintendo, the light strikes are most likely the result of an obstruction in the firing pin channel possibly a brass shaving from a fired case. It takes less than 15 minutes to clear this issue up.

    I know you're frustrated with this little gun but don't be too quick to take offense with KT. The majority of KTs function 100% out of the box and need nothing more than cleaned and lubed before your first range trip. To help put your mind at ease that this really does happen with other gun makers, I have a Ruger LCP that was terrible out of the box. It finally became 100% reliable after it hit 1000 rounds fired. That's not a typo. It really took one thousand rounds. :eek: My P3AT, however, has never had a failure of any kind. It was even flawless through break in.

    In truth, your P3AT is not yet broken in. It takes about 200 FMJ rounds to get the job done. I've had issues with every semi-auto I've ever owned during the same break in period (except for my P3ATof course). The process can be helped along and drastically shortened with a fluff and buff but that isn't required. I think if you take the time to break it in, you'll find that you have an extremely reliable gun on your hands. Again, all semi-autos have a break in period and should never be trusted before they are fully broken in.
     
  6. Picatinny_Pete

    Picatinny_Pete New Member

    Sep 2, 2009
    Hello,

    I've had and worked on several P3AT's and all cycled reliably when fired, but had minor problems such as failures to feed upon loading, or just a very "rough" feel. The two hundred rounds or a fluff and buff and about 50 rounds solved the problems for me. You never know though, I worked on one friends P3AT because it had a "Feeding problem"and firing problem .

    I fluffed and buffed it and the P3AT worked and cycled fine for me, but it was still failing to feed the first round for him when he loaded it. The trouble turned out to be he was ever so gently easing the slide forward so the recoil spring had problems moving the slide so it stripped the bullet out of the magazine. Teaching to pull the slide all the way to the back and releasing it solved that problem. Cleaning and polishing the firing pin channel and firing pin solved the failure to fire problem. Just remember thaat when tou remove the retaining screw the first time to lightly hit the screwdriver while its in the screw head a few times to break the thread locker that Kel-Tec uses. I hope the info helps.

    Best Regards
     
  7. justintendo

    justintendo New Member

    13
    Dec 16, 2009
    thanks alot for the help and encouragement guys....the problem i had was not light strikes i found....the hammer wasnt falling...there is some issue with the hammer block....sometyhing is hanging up with its relation to the hammer.....the trigger being pulled several times will eventually get the hammer to drop!
    last night i completly dissembled the gun, and made sure no dirt was present...i am a fan of the mobil one and applied a few drops here and there after a meticulous scrub....the gun feels alot smoother now, but still some issues with that hammer block....
    how is the block supposed to interact with the hammer? is the semi circular cutout supposed to ride on the roll pin in the hammer? im happy i at least found the problem with out sending it in...but i still get some fail to fires, and it can happen on any round....first, last, whatever. im sure the gun as a whole will loosen up and work well. i must say, it doesnt look to me to have too bad of build quality after tearing the gun down...everything is metal that needs to be...very simple design!
     
  8. justintendo

    justintendo New Member

    13
    Dec 16, 2009
    a little update fellas...the problem with the hammer not falling, was caused by the roll pin in the hammer( which retains the spring ). the split in the pin was catching on the hammer block. i removed the pin and pressed it back in so the split was hidden in the hammer...gun works great now after testing it and firing about 30 rounds...this has also yet to jam in any way, shape, or form since i first got the pistol. i have been using the cheapo flat point winchesters, havent tried anything else yet. weather has been really crappy.

    i also did some emery cloth on the trigger connector, where it rides on the solid pin holding the hammer in the frame...made a huge difference, as there were chatter marks there. it was making a slight click noise when about a third of the way through its travel. just one click each pull. again, i did some deburring and polishing on the trigger connector bar interacts with hammer.
    the trigger on this gun feels really good now. not that it felt bad, but is really smooth. small amounts of mobil one here and there seems to have reduced the weight of trigger pull

    i still need to fire alot more thru it to test it, but seems to be a nice pistol for someone who doesnt mind a lil tinkering. is it really that bad to be able to tear your ccw down to the last part for inspection? its actually a side benefit of a kel tec!!! its so easy to get apart and fully understand it5s operation.

    now if they send me my new barrel , ill be set. that im a lil disappointed about. its so pitted inside, my old mosin nagant rifle, two enfields, and an arisaka i own all have nicer bores....and this thing is new! not a speck anywhere of anything anywhere else other than a few chatter machine marks here and there. sorry about being long winded, but this may help someone else with a similar problem