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Hello,

I have been debating getting a p3at for a while and finally decided to get one this week. Was trying to wait for the guns with the new slides, but no one here has got any new guns for about a month.

I was wondering what should be done to the gun b4 shooting? I DONT have the tools needed for the fluff and buff and hope that is not necessary. The manual makes no mention of whether the gun should be cleaned b4 shooting and how much lubrication is needed and where. Sorry if these are rookie questions, but my only other pistol is a glock that didnt need breaking in.

Thanks!
 
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atl3695 said:
Hello,

I have been debating getting a p3at for a while and finally decided to get one this week. Was trying to wait for the guns with the new slides, but no one here has got any new guns for about a month.

I was wondering what should be done to the gun b4 shooting?  I DONT have the tools needed for the fluff and buff and hope that is not necessary.  The manual makes no mention of whether the gun should be cleaned b4 shooting and how much lubrication is needed and where.  Sorry if these are rookie questions, but my only other pistol is a glock that didnt need breaking in.

Thanks!
if u don't have the tools, you don't have the tools, More than likely it is good to go anyhow. But I do think I would at least take the slide off and grease the rails and that bar on the bottom of the slide that cocks the hammer back. and alittle lube on the take down pin , that will lube the barrel lug. Not much grease either but the slide and frame will melt alot faster and be smoother faster if properly lubed. Shoot good ammo, rem, federal, magtech. The more you shoot it the better and smoother it will get for you. These little guns now seem to work pretty darn good right out of the box, but give it alittle extra help, lube it, then shoot it like u stole it. I think I would pass on a HP round until you are good to go with fmj, then pick ur defense round and test it out for sure, be it a fmj or hp round-- that will be ur decision. You will love shooting the little bugger....
 

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Clean, Lube, Shoot....repeat ;)



...however, there will be a few dings in the frame and slide that should be cleaned with some type of tool.  for example the frame ding opposite ejector and the slide at the trigger disconnect cam can be easily cleaned with a nail clipper file.

Besides your cleaning supplies
The most expensive tool you might need is a 2mm (5/64") allen wrench.
 

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Tools??? What tools do you need to clean and lube a P3? I must be missing something, cause I've only been removing the assembly pin to field strip it and get the slide and barrel off. No tool needed for that. You may need some tools for further disassembly or if something comes loose, but not just for a field strip to clean and lube.

I didn't do anything to my P3 when I bought it, just took it to the range and fired 50 rounds thru it. Only two failures, once on that first box of 50 and then again about 200 rounds later (after several cleanings).

Clean and lube before first use, yea, maybe. But I'm not conviced a F&B is needed right out of the box.

Someone here provided this link to me for lube and grease locations on a KT.
Goldenloki Keltec Care

Neither my P11 or PF9 got cleaned and lubed before the first test drive, and when I get my second P3, it will probably go straight to the range and see how it goes.

Ned.
 

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These guns are test fired and not cleaned or lubed afterwards. A new one may have spent weeks going from Kel-tec to distributor to the gun shop where it may have sat on a shelf for some time. I may also have been handled and dry fired by customers. Regardless, I would definately recommend cleaning and lubing before firing a new Kel-tec. Shooting it dry out of the box is asking for trouble and unnecessary wear that can and should be avoided. YMMV.
 
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your gonna clean it and lube it anyway, so why not do it first out of the box, hell you might find a $100 bill in the barrel and would never know it was there if you didn't pre clean and lube it before shooting it. Just makes good sense to know alittle about ur weapon before putting rounds through it. IMO it will sure help eliminate alot of little problems to. and this is no SWAG either.. ;D
 

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jimwiggs said:
you might find a $100 bill in the barrel

Is Wilson now prepaying for P3ATs ;D

Jim
Wilson,
Are you saying if I go buy another new P3 and clean it before firing, you'll be paying me $100??

If so, I'll pick up two. ;D

Don't tell 2PP about this deal we have going, cause he'll start suggesting I wait by the mail box. :eek:

Ned - new P3s are money in the bank. ;)
 

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"But I do think I would at least take the slide off and grease the rails and that bar on the bottom of the slide that cocks the hammer back"

Does everyone put grease on this bar?

I assume it is the part of the slide that not only cocks the hammer - but also pushes the next round into the chamber.

I like to polish the surface - and oil it - but wipe the oil off before I put gun back together. No visible oil left on surface.

This surface comes in direct contact with the top round in the magazine - I am thinking if you put any grease on it - it would also get on the cartridge - and be carried into the chamber.
 
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When I put any grease on that rail, u would be hard pressed to even see it.  Alot is definitely to much, to little is definitely ok
 

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  This little pistol is NOT a GLOCK!

  Glocks only need lubed sparingly--THIS
one likes plenty.

  Glocks can be fired after just barely releasing the trigger--THIS one will give you light strikes if you don't release until the back of your finger touches the trigger guard.

  Glocks have a substantial weight, so limp wristing is not much of a problem--THIS one is so light that it will malfunction if you don't keep a locked wrist.

  Glocks can reliably go thousands of rounds before cleaning and withstand all kinds of abuse--THIS one may balk if you don't clean it every 50 rounds, and don't even THINK of torture testing it.

  The P3AT is NOT a Glock and must be pampered a bit--But THIS little pistol can hide so well in your pocket that even YOU may forget it's there.

Packer.
 

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Two Pistol Packer said:
  This little pistol is NOT a GLOCK!

  Glocks only need lubed sparingly--THIS
one likes plenty.

Packer.
That's exactly my thought process too. My Glocks get "residual" oil and grease - My KTs get three times that much and functions great that way.
 

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atl3695 said:
but my only other pistol is a glock that didnt need breaking in.
Oh yes it did!
But you appearently didn't know it.

Glock applies Fel-Pro copper anti-seize compound to the slide and frame on every new gun they make.

It should be left in place and not cleaned off during the first 200 - 500 rounds of break-in shooting.

It is used to insure there is at least some lubrication in these important areas while the frame & slide mate up with each other during break-in.


rcmodel
 

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I did a F&B on my 3AT with a $.50 piece of 800 grit emery paper, a no 2 pencil and a small scrap of maple.

Used the emery wrapped around the pencil to polish the loading ramp and bottom slot on the barrel. Used the emery wrapped around a tiny block of maple to smooth the slide ramp section that contacts the striker.

Heck, a cheap ($4) set of surplus jewelers files, along with the emery paper, got me through a P3AT slide melt I am proud of.

You don't need much in the way of tools to work on the things, and what you do need, you can usually pick up out of the local hardware stores' 'bargain' bin.

Didn't need to mess with the internals. Did the partial F&B because it wouldn't feed lead nosed JHP when I first got it and I didn't want to wait 200 rounds to try again. (Range is a 2 hour round trip and expensive, brother doesn't want two hundred rounds at a time sent down his range. The neighbors complain, and he has to explain to the police again the city limits stops before his property line and he is in the county, now go away) ;D
 
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rcmodel said:
Oh yes it did!
But you appearently didn't know it.

Glock applies Fel-Pro copper anti-seize compound to the slide and frame on every new gun they make.

It should be left in place and not cleaned off during the first 200 - 500 rounds of break-in shooting.

It is used to insure there is at least some lubrication in these important areas while the frame & slide mate up with each other during break-in.

 

rcmodel
ur right on that RC. I sent one of my employees to glock school to be an armorer when we were in the gun business and they told them the exact same thing. I forgot what they called it back then but you had it right. They are lubricated when they pack them in the box..
 
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