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Hi there I am a new proud owner of a PLR 16. Unable to get it locally I had it shipped here to PA from Florida so the local dealer couldn't answer questions. I first noticed a white ring in the end of the barrel. Does that need to be removed? Should I only use brass casings? You should never dry fire it right? Can I put the foregrip on or should a gunsmith do it? What accessories are available for it and where are they sold? Thank you for any infi...I appreciate it...Tom
 

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I do not know what you are talking about with a white ring, but you NEVER EVER FIRE A GUN WITH ANYTHING IN THE BARREL. Even very small things can cause the bullet to be impeded in its exit, which can bulge the barrel (ruins it) or even crack, split, or worse. Mine did not have anything like that in it, could be to protect the barrel crown, or to mark the gun as unloaded (it may go all the way to the chamber) or something else. Yes, remove it.

The PLR is a brass only gun according to the manual and kel-tec. However some people shoot other stuff at their own risk. The biggest issue seems to be a stuck case = busted extractor.

You can dry fire modern guns now and then. I would not make a habit of it, but it happens sometimes and a few won't hurt the gun. Constantly doing it without a "snap cap" (dummy round) can eventually cause the firing pin to peen up from being hit too hard against its forward stop.

Kel tec sells a lot of accessories, a forend with a rail, there are a couple of other forends. They sell a sling for it. Browse the kel tec website. A lot of AR stuff works, including AR mags. Anything you can put on an AR rail fits a PLR, but do not attach a grip on the front (requires bafte paperwork or you risk court, you may win, but you risk it). Most anything else is ok, flashlights and optics and so forth.
 

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Thanks jonnin so much for the info....I worked late and was tired when I was looking at the gun. This morning I saw the white ring was actually the light grey metal from the barrel end that was not painted black...also the clerk at the sporting goods store told me that his friend in the military did not clean his rifle barrel often just cleaned the firing mechanism He said cleaning the barrel with the metal brush wears away the rifiling in the barrel...can you comment on that...can anyone put on the forearm...thanks again Tom
 

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I clean my rifles with a wooden dowel rod, pushing a solvent wet patch down the barrel with that until it comes out more or less clean. Once in a blue moon, there is a piece of crud in the rifling that you need a brush for, and so you use the brush. The brush is copper and is so much softer than steel of the barrel it should not damage it, but I prefer to not use it until it is needed.

A lot of antique guns are damaged from excessive cleaning, caused by hard cleaning rods of yesteryear. A few modern guns have been damaged by idiots that put their copper brush cleaning rod on a drill and ream out the barrel. In general, though, the occasional cleaning of a barrel with a soft copper brush and a brass rod will not hurt it --- both are softer than steel and pushing them in by hand during a normal cleaning will not hurt the gun. If you ram a brush down it every week whether it needs it or not, and do like 30 passes each time, or something nutty, you might eventually mess something up.

Lots of people use a bore snake instead, and that is not going to damage a thing, its cloth with cleaner on it.

The odds of damaging rifling with a brush is nil. The most likely damage is the crown of the barrel, and if you damage THAT you will lose accuracy at an alarming rate; a damage crown can open a group up from 1/2 an inch to 4 or 5 inches in a hurry. Whatever you do, do not bang on the crown during cleaning, and avoid sticking the business end of the barrel into the dirt, ground, floor, or whatever else.


The forend grip from kel tech is easy to install. Just pop the gun open by taking out the pin that opens the gun for cleaning, and it slips over the barrel in 2 pieces that push together easily.
 

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The "white ring" that is not finished at the muzzle face is the chrome barrel lining.

Don't mess with it, as it's supposed to be there.

From the PLR-16 FAQ
27) When did the chrome lined barrels appear?
The chrome lined barrels appeared on the PLR-16 in mid to late 2008. There is no definite serial number. There was some overlap of chromed and non-chromed barrels being made at the same time, but you can see the chrome lining if you look at the bore and chamber of the gun. Chrome is a light gray color, un-chromed would be black (blued finish).
rc
 

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The Bore Snakes that I've seen had a brass brush embedded inside the woven synthetic cover, but the brass brush won't be a problem on the PLR-16 if used properly.

The guy who seldom cleans his bore runs the risk of excessive copper buildup in the rifling, which will eventually reduce accuracy. If it's allowed to get that bad, it can be very difficult to remove. I clean the bore every time I shoot it. I wrap a patch around a nylon brush, wet it with bore cleaner, and pull it from chamber to muzzle using an Otis cleaning cable. That eliminates any chance of damaging the crown (the front of the barrel, at the muzzle) and it eliminates any chance of damaging the rifling, as might happen if a rod is pushed, causing it to bow and contact the rifling in the middle.

I recently found a bore cleaner that I like a lot. It's Bore Tech Eliminator. It's a different formulation. It does a good job on carbon and copper, and it seems to work fairly well on lead too. The best part is the lack of odor, unlike solvents based on petroleum distillates or other petrochemicals, or ammonia based copper removers. Like the other chemical cleaning agents, it works best when allowed a few minutes to soak and do its work before following up with the next patch.
 
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