New owner needs help: two issues

Discussion in 'P-3AT' started by dez, Feb 15, 2009.

  1. dez

    dez New Member

    5
    Feb 15, 2009
    Just bought my first Kel-Tec. For the first hundred or so rounds, no problems and was really impressed with the accuracy and consistency of such a small .380 auto.
    The second time out I started getting extraction/ejection failures...usually on the last two rounds in the mag. Seems like the case would extract about 3/4 of the way and then get jammed (at the mouth of the case and the cylinder) by the next round in the mag or the follower. I then started checking the Boards and did a fluff and buff job.
    So yesterday I loaded my two mags with three rounds each. The first three ran perfect. I changed mags and...nothing. The trigger has full movement without resistance and the hammer fails to cock. It is just like I had dry fired it and not racked the slide. I notice that the trigger bar moves when I pull the trigger, but the hammer doesn't. I looked at the gif pic of the pistol firing, but I can not figure what part cocks the hammer when squeezing the trigger? I intend to strip it down and see what I can find, but I thought I better ask here before doing so.
    Any advice or recommendations on the FTEs and/or trigger-hammer issue?
    Thanks!
     
  2. JFB

    JFB New Member

    Jul 25, 2005
    welcome to KTOG

    the cam on the trigger bar needs to go up into the very small notch milled in the slide.  If a dab of trash prevents the cam from going all the way up, the trigger does not engage


    as for extraction, check the extractor screw
     

  3. dez

    dez New Member

    5
    Feb 15, 2009
    Thanks for the Welcome.
    Update: I took it apart. There was a little plastic crude here and there, but not too bad. I did notice the trigger pin appeared like the one in the pic http://www.1bad69.com/gallery/GunStuff/kel-tec/triggerpin/dsc00430-small.jpg. I tapped it back in a bit and the hammer would cock intermittently. I then tapped it some more and it is now working (!). However, I could not find the hole in the frame to tap it back out. I am perplexed as to how to remove the trigger pin and examine it. I also am not sure how far up it should go into the trigger.
    I will test fire this afternoon.
    However, it seems I am just a fraction of a pin movement in returning to non-firing status. Accordingly, I would like to be assured that the fix will not have to repeated. I'll report back.
    Thanks again.
     
  4. dez

    dez New Member

    5
    Feb 15, 2009
    Update on firing: It works. No problems. But I still am not sure what was wrong and if that trigger pin really was the problem. And how do you get that trigger pin out anyway?
    Thanks again.
     
  5. rcmodel

    rcmodel New Member

    Feb 6, 2005
    Eastern Kansas
    The trigger pin coming out was most assuredly the problem.

    And you can't get it back out without breaking the plastic trigger off of it.

    I would have suggested you put a drop of Blue Lock-Tight on it before driving it back in, but too late now.

    If it works it's way out again, Lock-Tight it.

    rc
     
  6. dez

    dez New Member

    5
    Feb 15, 2009
    Will do! And thanks.
    Can you explain just how that pin works? I don't understand the mecahnics of it. The trigger bar moved even when the pin was out.
     
  7. adamsesq

    adamsesq New Member

    Dec 25, 2006
    As RC said there is now way to "push" it back out. The trigger goes straight up into the frame and the trigger axis runs through a ball at the top of the trigger perpindicular to how the long axis of the trigger. The pin just secures those two together so the top of the trigger cannot slip around the trigger axis. Sometimes the trigger axis can be so wedged/tight at the top of the trigger that it would work even without the retaining pin but not usually and/or not for long.

    If you ever have to take the trigger totally off the axis you cut the plastic part of the trigger off around the pin with a dremmel wheel. Then pull the pin separating the trigger from the axis. Then when you reinstall you obviously use a new trigger.

    Hopefully with that explanation and looking at the parts diagram in your manual it will make a little more sense.

    -Scott
     
  8. dez

    dez New Member

    5
    Feb 15, 2009
    Rather than worry about the trigger pin working loose again, I decided to replace the trigger and pin and loc-tite it in. I had emailed Kel-Tec Monday, but called them today as no reply. The woman was very nice and said they would mail me the parts free. How cool is that? Thanks everyone for your help.

    BTW, I asked about the RFB. She said they should be available laster this month in the 18" version. Suggested retail $1800. Really want to read some range reports on this bad boy.