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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well...it's certainly not a Glock. ::)

Today I fired 233 rounds of CCI Blazer (aluminum) and 25 rounds of WWB through my new P3AT for my first real range session with it.

I wasn't trying for accuracy so I won't get into the fact that my groups were not what I am accustomed to. I mostly wanted to try and break it in and get some sort of comfort level with its reliability.

Words of the Day - Failure to Extract

Of the 258 rounds that I fired, approximately 50 of them failed to extract. That's right...about 1 out of every 5 rounds failed to extract. Not good. Not good at all. In a gunfight I'd be dead.

I finally discovered that the little screw that holds the extractor spring in place was loose. When I tightened it up the FTE's went away, but the screw would loosen up again about every 18-20 rounds. Unfortunately I didn't discover this until near the end of my range session.

It's disappointing to know that I"m going to have to put Loctite on a brand new gun just to try and get it somewhat reliable. The whole extractor setup seems like a very bad design to me. Why did they change it?

Trigger Reset

During my first 12-15 rounds I kept have FTF's. I'd eject the round and see that it had a light strike to the primer, but no ignition. I finally figured it out.

When I shoot my Glocks, after a round fires I release the trigger just enough to hear it click, then fire again. Better trigger control. I learned that the P3AT doesn't work that way. It WILL "click" and if you squeeze the trigger it WILL drop the hammer, but it won't fire. You have to let the trigger ALL the way out between shots. Not what I expected but I guess I can deal with it.

If You Can't Say Anything Nice, Don't Say Anything At All

The range session wasn't ALL bad. A couple of good things I discovered were:

1) The gun always fires when you pull the trigger (that is, as long as the previous round ejects and you let the trigger all the way out before firing the next round).

2) It had absolutely no problem feeding the Blazer rounds OR the WWB rounds (that is, as long as the previous round ejected like it was supposed to).

3) It's loud enough to scare someone away even if the bullet won't really hurt them. ;)

4) With the target set about 5 yards away I was able to keep all of the shots on the paper. I don't consider that accurate by any means, but for my first time shooting such a small gun it could have been a lot worse.

Considering my intent in getting this gun was for concealed carry, I'm going to have to give it a big F based on what I've seen so far. I've probably fired over 2500 rounds combined through my G17 and G22 without a SINGLE failure of any kind...EVER. I don't expect THAT kind of reliability out of a Kel-Tec, but a 20% failure rate is unacceptable for a defensive handgun.

Any tips on what to do about the extractor spring screw? Can I just put Loctite on it?
 

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A drop of BLUE locktite on the top threads of the extractor screw should secure it and yes, you must allow the trigger to reset fully (2 clicks) or you are firing off the hammer block from the 1/2 cocked position which will light strike every time. And no it is not a Glock, but let us know when they can make an 8 oz pistol for $200 that will fit in your shirt pocket. This is not a target gun. It is an easy to CC or BUG, up close, self defense weapon designed to save your bacon when your big 2 pound pistol is home in the safe. :-/
 

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I love my Glocks but I carry Kel-Tecs for comfort. Featherweight pocket pistols are more sensitive to debris than heavier pistols. While some folks push it further, I clean my P-3ATs after each range session or 50 rounds (I simply refuse to get in a gunfight requiring more than 50 rounds, if all I have is a pocket pistol).

Kel-Tec has introduced a new harder screw that can be tightened more that the old soft buttonhead. Wait a month or two until the old stock is used up and have the Service Dept (800-515-9983) send you one free. Use a smidgen of purple or blue Loctite on the top two threads until then. Remember the base of this screw sits in the firing pin grove and excess would be bad.

The P-3AT is a full release trigger (it’s only half c0cked), likely a safety design, as many/most folks carry them in a pocket. Most folks get use to it.

Wilson – who’s always got a $100 bill if it you want to unload that P-3AT ;D
 

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Hey Wilson. I edited the banned words list so the language nanny will nowlet you type cock as opposed to c0ck... see. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do I hear a $350?? It IS parkerized you know. ;)

Just kidding. I have no intentions of selling it. I recognize it's value and that's why I'm willing to work through the bugs and try and get it to be a reliable self-defense gun.

I'll chalk today's session up as a learning experience....and I'm also going to get one of those new screws.
 

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I think you are well on your way. These are not necessarily fool-proof like Glocks, but they are worth the learning curve and a little effort.

Hmm... Parked? I'll go $150 shipped. ;D
 

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Nothing wrong with your P3 that a little Loctite won't cure. A tiny dab just under the head of the screw is enough.

If you keep using the aluminum case stuff, it may eventuall cause you extract troubles. These little pistols like brass best.

Packer.
 

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Wilson, Drivelane and TxCajun are all decent people but probably are a little short financially after Christmas. Except maybe Wilson who never is known to offer more than $100.00 at any time.
 
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