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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys I have a question. I have a nicely setup P3at. Its the OD grip with the parkerized slide, has the CT laser on it, the pinky exension for better grip, and Corbon DPX running perfecly through it. I had issues (FTF, FTE) but once I sent it to keltec they cleared up the issue quickly. Now, like an idiot, my brother tried to help me put the hogue grip on it and advised that I should possibly glue it on. Yes, yes, I know.....terrible Idea. To make a long story short I took the grip off and have a glue filled handle that wont come off even with industrial strength solvents. Now, I saw on keltec that they have grips for sale. I was wondering how difficult it is to change grips. I see the trigger mechanism on my grip and it seems like it may come out with a little work. The new grip from keltec says it comes with all the necessary parts. Does that mean a new trigger system? 30 bucks is cheap for that but the gun overall is pretty inexpensive. Please help! My pistol shoots perfectly....I just want it to look perfect too. (Btw, I am prior miiltary so tinkering with firearms is somewhat of a hobby unless it requires too much precision, entailing special equipment) Please Help!
 

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I buy these all the time. You get the grip with hammer BLOCK and mag release installed. The change out is pretty simple. Knock out the two plastic pins and release the trigger spring using a flat blade screwdriver. Push the trigger up and the frame comes out. Here is a great youtube video showing it all including getting the trigger sear back...
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9T-z59HDeTk[/ame]

By the way if you want to change the color of the grip the grey is the best one to paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it seems like there are minimal amounts of tools necessary and a bunch of patience. The youtube guy did it in a snap. I think I will try it....and with the grey frame. Thanks!
 

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I have done it a few times and it is a very easy job. Use a thin small screwdriver or a hacksaw blade to push the sear back up in front of the hammer. Pull the spring back into position and test before putting the pins back in. Like he says, the hammer block is a bear to get back into the gun, don't ever remove it is the best idea. Ask me how I know ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just ordered a gray frame and I hope that it doesnt cause too much of a hassle for me. Luckily, my hands arent too big and I have patience knowing that my gun will look amazing when I am done.



Im trying to send pics of my disaster but dont know if it will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Im not sure how to use the pics upload thing. I am assuming that I click and drag the image into the space between the
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After doing all this, once I post, the images comes out as a question mark.... Please help so that I can show you the monstrosity that I call a grip on my keltec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am also having a bit of trouble looking for the "sear" in the manual. I am trying to visualize what I must do to replace the grip but the peace called the sear is not in the book nor do I know what it is or does. The assembly look pretty easy since I am merely taking out the frame and replacing it. Can someone explain what the sear is?
 

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Called the hammer block. It's the piece held in by the one steel pin that you don't have to remove to take out the frame. When you pull the frame it will spring back against the grip. When you install the new grip just before you get the frame all the way down in the back to line up the holes you take a small this screwdriver or hacksaw blade and push it forward so the hammer seats into it. Very easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sounds great, rebootit, thanks for all of your help. I had one last question...I had the fluff and buff done by keltec and they made it shoot perfectly. Is there anything I need to polish specially or lube specially on the new grip that keltec may have done to my old one for reliability?
 

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CavMedic said:
Im not sure how to use the pics upload thing.  I am assuming that I click and drag the image into the space between the
?
After doing all this, once I post, the images comes out as a question mark.... Please help so that I can show you the monstrosity that I call a grip on my keltec.  
http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1115586716
You can not direct past pictures, they have to be linked from a web host site  ;)
 

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CavMedic said:
Is there anything I need to polish specially or lube specially on the new grip that keltec may have done to my old one for reliability?
There is nothing in the grip you need to mess with. While apart you can clean out the transfer bar and oil it easy enough. Get the dirt and or pocket fuzz that may be there out. Make sure the little spring that holds the slide on stays inside the little space for it when you put it back together, that's about the only thing that can go wrong.
 

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How did you get keltec to do the fluff and buff?  I would love to get them to do it.  I see a few rub marks where the barrel is contacting the frame.  Will they take care of this free?  Also, do I pay the shipping?

CavMedic said:
sounds great, rebootit, thanks for all of your help.  I had one last question...I had the fluff and buff done by keltec and they made it shoot perfectly.  Is there anything I need to polish specially or lube specially on the new grip that keltec may have done to my old one for reliability?
 

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liltoy said:
How did you get keltec todo the fluff and budd?  I would love to get them to do it.  I see a few rub marks where the barrel is conacting the frame.  Will they take care of this free?  Also, do I pay the shipping?
KT does not do a F&B  . They only fix specific problems.  They do sometimes polish the feed ramp if the gun is sent in for FTFeed. If you send the gun in for warranty work it is sent by you prepaid (some people with NIB guns with problems do sometimes get KT to send a shipping label but this is above and beyond what the warranty says.

rebootit said:
There is nothing in the grip you need to mess with. While apart you can clean out the transfer bar and oil it easy enough. Get the dirt and or pocket fuzz that may be there out. Make sure the little spring that holds the slide on stays inside the little space for it when you put it back together, that's about the only thing that can go wrong.
You might want to remove any flashing and smooth the seams. Some mags don't drop free because of flashing inside the grip handle

Reduce the molding ridge inside the magazine well of the grip to help the empty mag eject better (http://www.ktog.org/mags.htm), round the edges of the mouth of the mag well for easier feeding, and round the sharp edges of the magazine follower
http://www.ktog.org/tecwerks10.htm
 

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Thanks burley... I am going to call them about the Franken Screw and ask them abou the rub marks and see if they are willing to get it fixed up... maybe ask them about polishing the feed ramp.

How much is the shipping in yall's experience? I am in san antonio texas
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks a lot everyone... I have changed the grip and it was even easier than I anticipated.  My little pistol is picture worthy once more.  I will get some pics on when I can.  

Liltoy, the pistol needs to travel via certified mail.  It depends how much that is where you are.

[edit]GROSS MISINFORMATION AND VIOLATION OF FEDERAL LAW HAS BEEN EDITED (STRUCK THROUGH)[/edit]
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·


There is my P3AT. Simple, elegant, and accurate in my hands. Thanks again Rebootit and everyone else for all the help. I couldnt have done this without you guys.
 

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CavMedic said:
Thanks a lot everyone... I have changed the grip and it was even easier than I anticipated.  My little pistol is picture worthy once more.  I will get some pics on when I can.  

Liltoy, the pistol needs to travel via certified mail.  It depends how much that is where you are.
Absolutly not unless you have a FFL. No US Mail for handguns !!!  :eek:
Here is a guide for shipping;
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/shipping.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
With all due respect, mr moderator, you need to check your laws on that one.  If you are purchasing a firearm (at least in Florida) and getting it sent via mail, then you need an FFL to receive it and relay it to you.  If you already own the weapon and are sending it to the manufacturer only, then you can send the entire weapon yourself via cetified mail.  Even the people at Kel Tec will tell you that when you call. Places like golden loki will tell you to send only certain parts of the pistol when doing aftermarket stuff, since they arent manufacturers of pistols.  This is, however, here in Florida and I do not know if the same laws apply in another state.

[edit]GROSS MISINFORMATION AND VIOLATION OF FEDERAL LAW HAS BEEN EDITED (STRUCK THROUGH)[/edit]
 
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