New baby
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Bought the P-3AT today and field striped, cleaned, and lubed as advised. Had the problem of chambering the first round as other owners have also had. Sling shotting the slide did feed the round,however the slide is very stiff even after the lube job. I guess after the blisters on my fingers heal and develop callous, I'll be fine. Still haven't blown any lead through it yet, but I can't wait to do so. I'm keeping the faith. 
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2,784 Posts
Without any rounds in the chamber and with no mag installed, it should rack smoothly by hand. If not, then the slide is grinding against something that it shouldn't be. Perhaps the frame is bowed, perhaps there is a bur, perhaps something didn't go back together quite right. If it isn't racking smoothly by hand now, did you try racking by hand without ammo before you took it apart? If it was smooth before, then strip her down again and reassemble. If it is together correctly, then strip her down again anyway and look for burs or wear points between the slide and internals.
Yes, the spring is strong, but it definitely shouldn't be "binding" against anything inside - even when brand new. One way to test this is to remove the 2 long springs and reassemble without them. Then you can feel if it is hung up on something inside.
I would be hesitant to shoot it if it is binding up when you hand rack it. Not meaning to worry you, but I recall a few others on this forum who reported stiff racking when new and ended up having no end to problems trying to get it right. If it is together correctly, you can't find anything wrong inside, and it is stiff when you rack, then I would recommend returning it for another one. Preferably chrome, as they seem to have fewer problems.
Hope this helps, let us know how it turns out
Yes, the spring is strong, but it definitely shouldn't be "binding" against anything inside - even when brand new. One way to test this is to remove the 2 long springs and reassemble without them. Then you can feel if it is hung up on something inside.
I would be hesitant to shoot it if it is binding up when you hand rack it. Not meaning to worry you, but I recall a few others on this forum who reported stiff racking when new and ended up having no end to problems trying to get it right. If it is together correctly, you can't find anything wrong inside, and it is stiff when you rack, then I would recommend returning it for another one. Preferably chrome, as they seem to have fewer problems.
Hope this helps, let us know how it turns out
You could try a Fluff & Buff just to see if it helps smooth the movement. I would highly recommend it.
http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm
Have fun.
Dave
http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm
Have fun.
Dave
Stiff may be a poor description. It takes a strong effort to retrack the slide probably because of the stiff springs and the narrow slide does not give a very large area to grasp. There is no grinding and the only binding is when chambering the first round. The slide stops when the tip of the ammo touches the feed ramp and does not enter the chamber. A slight tap on the back of the slide does the trick. Sling shotting the slide feeds the ammo fine. With no magazine or ammo the slide moves freely. I just concerned because if the ammo isn't feeding properly now, then how will it feed during actual firing.
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1,921 Posts
It should feed fine when firing. There will be a lot more recoil force to jam the round in properly then. Mine does the same thing.
During a fluff and buff, I delevoped a few tips along the way.
1) Use a small jewelers screwdriver and run it through the rails,along the frame, and other machined surfaces. It gives you an added feel and actually stops when it hits a burr.
2) When working on your pistol and you constantly have to install and pry out the assembly pin (#110 in Kel-Tec manual). Use a #22 drill bit instead of the pin and install it in the frame using the straight shank end NOT the drill twist end. Since there is no undercut it doesn't engage the spring and the extra length helps for removal. Not to mention you eliminate the chance of scratching the slide by not having to pry out the pin. REMEMBER TO INSTALL THE FACTORY PIN WHEN FINISHED !!
3) I also slightly modified the ejector(#115 in the manual).Remove the slide and install a loaded magazine into the grip. Look at the area where the rim of the cartridge touches the ejector. You will see a sharp corner where these touch and the ejector actually digs into the rim of the cartridge. If you manually eject the same cartridges a few times, you will see these dings on the rim. I believe that this is some of the cause of the problem of chambering the first round. I rounded the sharp corner with a small file and now there is less drag which did improve the initial round feeding. Did not eliminate, but improved. I can't see any harm by this slight mod. , but if it does, the part would be inexpensive to buy and easy to replace. It is worth a try.
1) Use a small jewelers screwdriver and run it through the rails,along the frame, and other machined surfaces. It gives you an added feel and actually stops when it hits a burr.
2) When working on your pistol and you constantly have to install and pry out the assembly pin (#110 in Kel-Tec manual). Use a #22 drill bit instead of the pin and install it in the frame using the straight shank end NOT the drill twist end. Since there is no undercut it doesn't engage the spring and the extra length helps for removal. Not to mention you eliminate the chance of scratching the slide by not having to pry out the pin. REMEMBER TO INSTALL THE FACTORY PIN WHEN FINISHED !!
3) I also slightly modified the ejector(#115 in the manual).Remove the slide and install a loaded magazine into the grip. Look at the area where the rim of the cartridge touches the ejector. You will see a sharp corner where these touch and the ejector actually digs into the rim of the cartridge. If you manually eject the same cartridges a few times, you will see these dings on the rim. I believe that this is some of the cause of the problem of chambering the first round. I rounded the sharp corner with a small file and now there is less drag which did improve the initial round feeding. Did not eliminate, but improved. I can't see any harm by this slight mod. , but if it does, the part would be inexpensive to buy and easy to replace. It is worth a try.
G
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I would consider the fluff and buff, good clean and lube, and close inspection of the guide rod hole.
golden loki fluff and buff
http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm
http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep2.htm
new gun prep
http://1bad69.com/keltec/newgunprep.htm
dissasembly
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/disassembly.htm
lubrication hints/tips
http://www.ktog.org/tecwerks1.htm#Lubrication
wheelguy said:...Thank you for sharing them with the rest of us. And - welcome to the "tinkerer's" club
I performed the fluff & buff and while there was a minor improvement to the overall smoothness of the action , I can't honestly say that it was a significant change. There were many burrs and rough surface finishes that were removed or polished. I still am not comfortable with the problem of the first round jamming against the feed ramp and you have to tap the back of the slide to totally feed the round.
I am now convinced that the problem is as the cartridge is being slid out of the magazine by the breech face, it is engaged by the extractor. At that point, the extractor digs into the casing at the rim and doesn't allow the round to be positioned high enough to enter the feed ramp. If the round could slide behind the extractor smoothly, with out digging in, then it would feed properly. The tap on the back of the slide apparently puts just enough force/vibration to snap the rim into the correct position on the breech face to allow a good feed.
Has anyone seem this problem and what is the possible remedy?
I am now convinced that the problem is as the cartridge is being slid out of the magazine by the breech face, it is engaged by the extractor. At that point, the extractor digs into the casing at the rim and doesn't allow the round to be positioned high enough to enter the feed ramp. If the round could slide behind the extractor smoothly, with out digging in, then it would feed properly. The tap on the back of the slide apparently puts just enough force/vibration to snap the rim into the correct position on the breech face to allow a good feed.
Has anyone seem this problem and what is the possible remedy?
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