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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted the following on a different board; but, I thought I might have more luck here.

I've just acquired a "NIB" RFB from a dealer via GunBroker. On arrival, I've noted the chrome coming off the bottom of the bolt and a fair amount of dirt in the "ejector tube" that has been cleared away by the ejecting brass. The inside of the action is heavily lubricated, bore looks great, a little carbon around the gas system when the gas adjustment is removed. I pointed out to the dealer that this gun appears to not be "NIB" per his description. He quite vigorously denies this though. My question is, have any other RFB owners noted the chrome coming off the bottom of the bolt, lots of oil, and a dirty appearing ejector tube on arrival from the factory? I'd hate to leave erroneous feedback on Gunbroker.com.
 

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It's likely that Kel-Tec is testing these early RFBs more than they will ultimately be testing them, which may account for some of the used appearance you described.

The bolt is shedding chrome plating? Whatever that is doesn't sound good.

Dirt in the ejection tube? Do you really mean dirt, as in soil, or is it some carbon debris or other gunk that might be found on a firearm?

got pictures?
 

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Hey Gerri,

Welcome to KTOG.

I'm guessing that you are referring to the two, narrow, elongated triangular bevel cuts on each side of the bottom of the bolt toward the rear? They're about 1.5" long & the chrome looks somewhat roughened? Correct?

Ain't no thing; it's normal & part of the design.

The guns are hand tweaked & TEST FIRED; there will be some soot in the ejection chute.

When you removed the adjustable gas port cover, were the detent pin & spring held captive or come flying out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will check and see if I have a macro lens on my digital cam. Then, I might need to ask how to post pics here. The area the chrome is coming if is the flat part between the two v notches on the edge. It appears to be the area where the bolt forces the hammer back to cock the gun. Frankly, I very much doubt it would affect function in any case. I'm not concerned about the minor amount of soot in the gas system. It is not excessive. The residue in the ejector chute is some grime; but, enough rounds went down the chute to 'clean' it off in the middle of each side of the chute. I'll try to find time to work on pictures later today.
 

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There will be some drag marks from cocking the hammer... NORMAL!
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I have 4 pictures but no idea how to upload them. Is there an instructional file somewhere?
 

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Gerri,

GO to "TinyPic" to host your photos. Hit the browse button & select what you want from your files. It's fairly intuitive. No registration is req'd & you won't get spammed. Once you do that, right click your mouse cursor over the photo & look for "Properties"; highlight the URL & place it in your post with {img} at the beginning of the URL & {/img} at the end of the URL. HOWEVER, YOU MUST substitute [  ] for {  }; I had to substitute those to make this post OR a box with a RED X would appear. Click Preview to see if that worked & then Post!
:)

http://tinypic.com/
 

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When you removed the adjustable gas port cover, were the detent pin & spring held captive or come flying out?

I'm trying to determine if there are variations on early guns.

TIA
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
stymie said:
When you removed the adjustable gas port cover, were the detent pin & spring held captive or come flying out?

I'm trying to determine if there are variations on early guns.

TIA

That pin is also captured and is listed as such in my direction manual. When reinstalling, it is easier to push it in with something else so you can align the threads. Coming off, the directions say to push it in; but, it just unscrewed for me.
 

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I was curious because another member mentioned that he had backed his off enough that when he fired the RFB again, "multiple" components launched when shooting suppressed. I suppose that he meant just the adjustable cover. Thanks, mine's the same way as yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hopefully these will come through alright. I found it difficult to get good photos of the ejection chute.




 

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Hey sorry I didn't post those for you earlier... I just nwo got to a place where I can do it and I see you already figured something out.
 

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Bolt: Looks like peeling/flaking to me.  I'd send it back to Kel-Tec and tell'em to fix it.

Robar's NP3 would probably be a better solution*, but that it'll be on your own coin.
* "NP3 is guaranteed against corrosion, peeling or flaking for the lifetime of the firearm"
 

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Burt_Gummer said:
Bolt: Looks like peeling/flaking to me.  I'd send it back to Kel-Tec and tell'em to fix it.

Robar's NP3 would probably be a better solution*, but that it'll be on your own coin.
* "NP3 is guaranteed against corrosion, peeling or flaking for the lifetime of the firearm"
I use a little EEZOX & white Lithium grease on the bolt & heavy impact components although NP3 is a better solution. Yep, looks like peeling to me, too. While you're at it, check around your gas piston sleeve for blast erosion.

Gerri, try focusing on the forward end of the chute instead of the middle of the gun for a better shot of the ejection assembly.
 

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stymie said:
I was curious because another member mentioned that he had backed his off enough that when he fired the RFB again, "multiple" components launched when shooting suppressed. I suppose that he meant just the adjustable cover. Thanks, mine's the same way as yours.

The defect was that i backed off the gas-adjust #161 to the furthest reach and returned close x 3 clicks. Blew the knob, spring and pin down a rabbit hole, which Kel-Tec promptly replaced @ no charge. Best to remove all parts when suppressing rifle. Will function without fail, 100s of rounds to date in my rifle/can combo! Getting carbon fiber can to cut weight,should have by Christmas. Shooter's Depot Lion suppressor line is worth consideration,they stay alot cooler!
 

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Was it a manufacturing defect? With the pin & spring held captive, I'm wondering if there was a part failure or overpressure related issue... :-/ ...OR

I'd tend to think that the cover was about to come off anyway, otherwise the threads on the port would probably be damaged/stripped out. Are you positive that you opened it to the limit & then back 3 clicks?

If you remove the adjustable cover prior to shooting suppressed, the spring & pin SHOULD stay put... correct? :-?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ryan951 said:
Hey sorry I didn't post those for you earlier... I just nwo got to a place where I can do it and I see you already figured something out.
No problem at all. I've been busy myself. Thanks for the offer.
 

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stymie said:
Was it a manufacturing defect? With the pin & spring held captive, I'm wondering if there was a part failure or overpressure related issue... :-/ ...OR

I'd tend to think that the cover was about to come off anyway, otherwise the threads on the port would probably be damaged/stripped out. Are you positive that you opened it to the limit & then back 3 clicks?

If you remove the adjustable cover prior to shooting suppressed, the spring & pin SHOULD stay put... correct? :-?

Gas Adjust (knob)#161 is held in place by the tension the gas adjust pin spring has on the gas adjust pin, thus pushing the gas adjust pin to catch one of eight notches that line the aft side of the gas adjust knob. This tension is the holding force, get it?
Obviously, three clicks from removal is insufficient tension for the gas adjust assembly. Remove all three pieces when using a can.............too easy!

My normal gas 6 clicks back from fully closed. Adjust Gas Assembly parts are removed when using can.
 
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