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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
went out shooting and had problems with s&b brass fmj and american eagle ammo,my problem is when i shot the round it would fire the bullet but the empty case would stay chambered sometimes,no jam its like the slide never moved back after firing ???what causes a fired round to do this?
 

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The extractor has slipped off of the casing. Check the button head screw, I'd also check out the extractor for damage.

I had this happen to me on the last round ocassionally, when I was having FTE problems. It only happened this way on the last round because there was not another round in the mag to jam the casing.

When this happens is the extractor still hooked on the round? If so this could be caused by limpwristing. Or the extractor jumped back over the rim on the way forward.
How many rounds have you shot through this gun?
Have you ever had the problem with other ammo?

Have you cleaned and lubed it?

Could possibly be limpwristing, the wrist taking up the energy that is supposed to let the slide cycle to the rear and pick up another round.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
if i rack the slide again it grabs the empty case in the chamber and spits it out :-/it happens to all ammo execpt hydra shocks and dpx,it all started when i took my gun to a gunsmith asked him to tighten button head screw and put locktite on it :-/i have put around 500 rounds trew it never had a problem till i had that button head tighten,i clean and lube it every time out ;D
 

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  All good points, zeke. I would add: There are still plenty of older 2Gs out there that still have the old, dull extractor. That dull pointed extractor can cause this.

  Look at the extractor. the tip should be very sharp, like this:



  If the tip is not pointy enough to puncture your finger, then call KT service: 1-800-515-9983. They will gladly mail you a free sharp one.

Packer.
 

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There are several things to try.

1) polish the chamber, with 400/600 grit sand paper use an in and out motion, don't twist it in the barrel.

2) Call KT, ask for service, ask for a new extrator, extractor spring and several buttonhead screws. If the extractor has been jumping over the round you probabbly need it. Getting the old one out now that it has been lock-tited is gonna take some work. The key is heat. If you have heat gun use it, if not try a hair dryer, get that area good and warm BEFORE you try to remove the screw, they strip easily, and are 2mm in size.

3) Concentrate on keeping a frim wrist the next time you shoot. Just in case.

There is a newer style extractor out, there are plenty of older style ones that work just fine, If you weren't having problems I wouldn't worry about which style you have.

Link to extractor info. http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=2504;action=display;num=1145152844

Try options one and three out and let us know how it goes.
 

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  You will need a 2mm Allen wrench. Have them ship you the new, harder screw and a new spring also. While you have them get a new magazine catch and spring--you probably need one.

Removing button head screw or extractor without disturbing firing pin alignment:

  DO NOT REMOVE THE SLIDE!

 Dryfire the pistol b4 you loosen the screw. This will drop the hammer onto the Firing pin and retain it for you. Heating the screw head with a soldering iron might help loosen the loctite.

Now you can take the entire screw, extractor and spring out. The FP will not move unless you move the trigger or slide.

  Check for crud under the extractor. Put blue or purple loctite only on the threads just under the head of the screw. Without needing to worry about the FP, just tighten the screw until snug. It is now good to go.

  Oh, by the way. If your FB got so loose that the firing pin came out, it would most likely come out while you were firing it. Chances are your eye would be lined up with it when the little needle came shooting back.

  If that happened, the LEAST of your problems would be finding the pin. There are good reasons why they recommend that you wear shooting glasses.

Packer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
zeke i have done the fluff and buff,i think i might be limpwristing,regardless i will get those parts.when i checked my button head screw extractor below the extractor oppisite side of ejecter there is metal scraped of on the edge below the extractor!
 

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fishing101paul said:
zeke i have done the fluff and buff,i think i might be limpwristing,regardless i will get those parts.when i checked my button head screw extractor below the extractor oppisite side of ejecter there is metal scraped of on  the edge below the extractor!
Are you saying that the extractor is gouging the aluminum frame?

Packer.
 

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Limp wristing tips:

It is nearly impossible to limp wrist this gun from a very firm, push-pull grip:

1. Place strong hand on grip with finger alongside trigger guard.
2. Cup weak hand as if you were going to drink water from it.
3. Rotate weak hand 45 degrees toward your body.
4. Place palm against front of strong hand fingers, with thumbs nearly parallel.
5. Line up on target and push forward with strong hand while pulling back with weak hand.
This will lock your wrist and prevent limp wristing.

Single hand grip:

1. Line up on target.
2. strain hand forward as if you were trying to get the gun closer to the target.
This will lock your wrist and prevent limp wristing.

If you are using one of these grips, and you get malfunctions, it is NOT limp wristing, but the gun that is causing them.

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fishing101paul said:
zeke i have done the fluff and buff,i think i might be limpwristing,regardless i will get those parts.when i checked my button head screw extractor below the extractor oppisite side of ejecter there is metal scraped of on  the edge below the extractor!

It's not the extractor making the mark, it's from the case ejecting.  Believe it or not it's normal wear, doesn't look pretty but all of the KT's that are shot enough will have it.  I'll look for a picture to make sure we are talking about the same area.  I'm pretty sure we are.

Here is a pic I stole from T7


Here is the link for the topic if you want to see it, it deals more with slide wear though.
http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=104;action=display;num=1157660884;start=6#6
 

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Good call, zeke! I totally missed that part about the "edge." Of course that's what it is.

The case hits the ejector and then pivots and hits the frame edge. Entirely normal. You should keep the top of it lightly filed so it doesn't interfere with the slide.

Eventually it will stop.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
zeke that is right where it is!i talked to a gun smith at kel-tec and just like u said he told me its normal and just file the edge a little bit!also got those new parts coming ;D thanks again guys!p.s.i went shoting for a little bit last night,held it with two hands and a firm grip 50 rnds wwb not one problem :-[
 

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Sounds like a good news, bad news, good news situation. I've had the same situation.


Good news is the gun works good. If you can shoot 50 WWB without problems your good to go.

Bad news is you need to work on shooting with a frim grip.

Good news is you now have a reason to shoot more.

Doesn't hurt to have extra parts around. BTW do you have a mag extension on? The extension really does help especially when trying to overcome a limpwristing problem. Keep us updated on how you are doing.
 
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