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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a used 1G P3-AT from a co-worker a few months back (this is my 2nd P3-AT).

First thing i did was the usual F&B, plus i polished the feedramp, everything i did with my first P3-AT. My first gun works great, the second one does not.

It fails to extract every round. :( I mean every one of them...

Any suggestions on what I should try next? Should i send it to Kel-Tec?

Thanks for your help. :)

Here are some pics:

 

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  Call KT service immediately: 1-800-515-9983. Have them send you an extractor and roll pin  for "your" FG P-32. This extractor has a longer sharper point and should totally take care of your problem. While you are ordering, get a new type flat ejector also.

  If this does NOT make the problem go away, then you are a candidate for a "Flyer barrel hood" mod.

Packer.
 

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T-RO said:
so using an extractor and roll pin from a P32 will fit the p3-at?
Didnt know that
Yes! That was the factory fix for this problem, just before the 2G came out. The P-32 extractor became the normal P3AT part.

If you only order a P3AT extractor though, you might get one of the left-over original parts. Better to order the P-32 extractor and be sure.

Packer.
 

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T-RO said:
ok so its gonna be parts #180 & #184 from the P-32 parts list here right:
http://www.kel-tec.com/p32parts.html
Yepper! They will probably send you the pin and spring (#182) anyway, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Don't forget the ejector, #115 for the P3AT, and you might as well get a recoil spring catch and new recoil springs while you are at it. All parts other than the extractor group, must be ordered for the P3AT.

Packer.
 

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As a point of interest, I have received two FG P-32 slides from Kel-Tec where the extractors were without the hangie-down-thing i.e. total flat extractors. Oh, those two P-32 slides also had factory Flyer-cut feed ramps to make-up for it. Yes I later swapped extractors.

A couple of weeks ago I ordered a FG P-3AT extractor for my latest $100 rehab and specifically requested one with the hangie-down-thing. I received the correct one. I’m now waiting on a new assembly pin and spring, after a magazine of Santa Barbara made it start walking

Wilson – who's looking for another shipped-to-my-FFL $100 project . . . if anyone is interested ::)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i just replaced the extractor + spring and the problem got worse. :(
The p32 extractor spring kel-tec sent me was MUCH smaller than my old spring though. Think i can mix and match for it to fix the problem?
 

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This light gun needs a firm wrist to shoot properly:

Tips for locking your wrist:

TWO HANDED:

1. Place strong hand on grip with finger alongside trigger guard.
2. Cup weak hand as if you were going to drink water from it.
3. Rotate weak hand 45 degrees toward your body.
4. Place palm against front of strong hand fingers, with thumbs nearly parallel.
5. Line up on target and push forward with strong hand while pulling back with weak hand.
This will lock your wrist and prevent limp wristing.

SINGLE HAND GRIP:

1. Line up on target.
2. strain hand forward as if you were trying to get the gun closer to the target.

SHOOTING FROM THE HIP

To shoot from close in with one hand, do the same straining forward, but lock your elbow so the hand can't actually GET forward. This works from 90 degrees or even from the hip--By tensing your arm muscles. You should practice both.

  If you STILL can't get it to work--Then send it to KT. They MIGHT just send you a brand new SG model with your old SN stamped on it.

Packer.
 

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T-RO said:
i just replaced the extractor + spring and the problem got worse. :(
The p32 extractor spring kel-tec sent me was MUCH smaller than my old spring though. Think i can mix and match for it to fix the problem?
I don't know how it can get worse than FTE in EVERY round.   :-/

I was unaware of a different sized extractor spring on the 1st gen P32/P3AT and thought the parts were identical (though I'm not 100% sure and don't have my parts list with me.)  Try the other spring.  

Packer:  I doubt this is limpwristing as this is his 2nd P3AT and... FTE on very round?  It almost has to be the gun.

Try the new extractor with the old spring and also polish the chamber very well.  Also consider breaking the sharp, lower edge off of the barrel hood.  Sometimes the casing can hang on that edge.  Just use a fine file or sandpaper and gently round the sharp, bottom edge.  Do NOT change the shape of the hood as that could affect lockup.
IF you are a member at the KTRange, the "Improved Extraction and FTE Mod (Flyer barrel hood mod) can be seen in the Maximizing Miniaturation Forum:
http://www.ktrange.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=1568

Chamber polishing, #15:
http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm

Also, if you have not already done so, try some different good quality, brass-cased ammo.  1st gen P3ATs are a bit more ammo selective.

Worst case scenario, when you've done all you can, spend $9 and ship your machine parts back to CNC, Inc for some TLC.  :-/
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/shipping.htm
 

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2PP: While you are here, aren't the extractor springs on the 1st gen P32/P3AT the same. I could have sworn they were.

At home, I have a list from KT with all the common parts for those 2 guns and I sure thought extractor spring was on it. What's up with that? :-/
 

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My FG gun was almost as bad as yours.
It started out about 1 in 3 or 4 FTE depending on the ammo brand. Federal HS worked the best.

Grease on the slide rails reduced it to about 15%.

All the chamber polishing did was get it down to about 10% FTE.

Then the P-32 extractor with the "hangy down thing", and a new spring they sent that was way stronger then the orginial one, got it down to about 5%.

Then, a slight "Flyer barrel hood mod" fixed it!
It has never failed to function since, in about two years.

I really think that was the only thing it needed in the first place.


rcmodel
 

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T-RO said:
i just replaced the extractor + spring and the problem got worse. :(
T-RO, can you verify that the extractor you installed has the hangie-down-thing on the end of the extractor?

Wilson – who’s still suspicious every sense he received two P-32 slides without those extractors :-/
 

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rcmodel said:
Then, a slight "Flyer barrel hood mod" fixed it!l
Good thought. If the brass being expelled (not those trapped in the chamber) have bent mouth disease it’s especially a good idea to consider.

Wilson – who’s advice on modifications is to always use moderation :)
 

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The clue is:
If the empty case is halfway out of the chamber, it is not sticking in the chamber.
Polishing the chamber will not help, except the sharp edge of the barrel hood might get polished a little while you are polishing the chamber.

If the sharp edge of the barrel hood is pushing it down into the mag well, it is getting knocked off the extractor hook by the case mouth of the loaded round in the mag.

That appears to be exactly what is happening in your pictures.


rcmodel
 
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