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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up an RFB and went home and took off the flash hider. I'm looking at 0.875" of 5/8x24 threading instead of the standard .600". So no silencer will fit. Is this what all these things ship with, or did I get a dud?
 

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Grand Poobah
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The longer threaded length on the RFB is standard for the RFB. You may have a few more threads inside the suppressor or have to use additional shim washers, depending on the suppressor model or the muzzle device it fits over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
No dud. The longer threaded length on the RFB is standard for the RFB.


Ughhh! Friday, I picked up an AR10 I had built. It had a random series of steps instead of a shoulder, so I sold it for a loss of a couple hundred bucks Monday. Tuesday I bought this RFB and picked it up today. Looking like I sell it for a loss tomorrow.

I love the gun industry. Such competence.

Thank you for the quick answer, sir. Adios.
 

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The PLR and SU firearms also have longer than usual muzzle threads, but it's not a huge deal. Add some washers, crush washers, custom shims, or a jam nut. This is hardly a show stopper. In some instances, the longer threads provide more options.
 

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Grand Poobah
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This is hardly a show stopper. In some instances, the longer threads provide more options.
Agree, and my apologies to the OP. Re-reading my post, it can be interpreted I was being rude. I certainly intended no disrespect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I didn't read any rudeness. It's ok.

Crush washers and such are figured into the 0.600ish standard sized threads. Also crush washers and such should never be used with silencers as they do not square them to the shoulder. Jam nuts are even worse, as they work by canting the muzzle device at an angle to the threads.

I'm having a machinist make a spacer for me. A spacer to correct the mistake made in the design of a $1,550 firearm.

I'd even, but I can't even.
 

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Many suppressor and muzzle brake manufacturers sell precision spacer washer kits, that have various thickness washers you can stack to index the brake. If you already have a machinist lined up, that will work. The spacer kits may be more cost effective.

Something like this is what you should be looking for.

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...muzzle-device-alignment-system-prod54363.aspx

Your own suppressor manufacturer may have them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I took it out to the range for zeroing. It put up a solid 40 MOA.

I have a three fold plan:

1. Eliminate ammo as a variable. I'll shoot some FGMM.
2. Eliminate scope as a variable. I'll put a reddot on the RFB.
3. Eliminate rifle as a variable. Hopefully it doesn't come to this.
 

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I took it out to the range for zeroing. It put up a solid 40 MOA.
The RFB is not a sub-MOA rifle. That's not its thing. However, I think you should expect 1-2 MOA, based on the consistent reports of others. If you're seeing 40 MOA, obviously something is wrong.

Is this with a suppressor? If so, how about removing the suppressor to eliminate the suppressor as a variable. Could you be getting baffle strikes?
 

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I took it out to the range for zeroing. It put up a solid 40 MOA.

I have a three fold plan:

1. Eliminate ammo as a variable. I'll shoot some FGMM.
2. Eliminate scope as a variable. I'll put a reddot on the RFB.
3. Eliminate rifle as a variable. Hopefully it doesn't come to this.
Yeah, it's crap and you should sell it to me for $200:D.
#4 on your list may be to realize that it is a very different form-factor to shoulder, aim and shoot well. Most shooters don't hit well with one the first time they shoot one. It doesn't fit in a lead-sled well either:rolleyes:.
You should just skip the headache and take the $200;).
And whatever you do, don't listen to experienced owners that say it can easily perform at 2 MOA:eek:.
I think they're all stretching the truth;) Green Black Yellow Facial expression Emoticon
. More like only 1.5 .
 

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Grand Poobah
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Both Blake and Liberty have some good words, although I have a slightly different opinion on accuracy, which I'll get to in a minute.

40 MOA is waaay outa' line. I would suspect loose rail, loose scope, bad scope , or baffle strikes (if you have a can on). A really bad crown won't even give you 40.

I hope you have better luck with it next outing.:cool:

That said an RFB does take a lot of getting used to, grows on you. It's like trying to precision shoot with an UZI. It can still shoot sub MOA, at least the heavier/longer hunter barrel. I have a hunter that gets around .5 and and a carbine that gets around 1.5. That is slow timed shots, with a precision scope, a Caldwell competition front rest, and sand bags in the rear -- or a led sled.

Yes Blake, it fits just fine on a led sled. See pic below. You of all people should know you just need a red neck spacer block. :eek:

Admittedly the accuracy opens up with just a grip pod or make shift rest on the front, a quick acquisition prism scope and no rear support, in a configuration you will actually use it.

And yeah, Blake and I both will take it off your hands cheap, and give it a good home. :rolleyes:

Apologies for the poor lighting.. I didn't already have a pic, and it's dark outside. And no comments on the carpentry quality. I just rough cut some blocks of wood and screwed them together to see if they were functional. Worked fine, and I never got around to prettying it up.
 

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And yeah, Blake and I both will take it off your hands cheap, and give it a good home. :rolleyes:
I saw it first!!!
I have a hunter that gets around .5 and and a carbine that gets around 1.5.
There you go propagating the myth:rolleyes:. Special match ammo?
Yes Blake, it fits just fine on a led sled. Give me a few minutes, and I'll post pictures. You of all people should know you just need a red neck spacer block. :eek:
I said it didn't fit "well" like a normal rifle.

Ok, $300 for the out-of-spec misfit, inaccurate rifle:D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The RFB is not a sub-MOA rifle. That's not its thing. However, I think you should expect 1-2 MOA, based on the consistent reports of others. If you're seeing 40 MOA, obviously something is wrong.

Is this with a suppressor? If so, how about removing the suppressor to eliminate the suppressor as a variable. Could you be getting baffle strikes?
No can, just bare threads. It's something major. Gotta be a completely broken scope or something.

Yeah, it's crap and you should sell it to me for $200:D.
#4 on your list may be to realize that it is a very different form-factor to shoulder, aim and shoot well. Most shooters don't hit well with one the first time they shoot one. It doesn't fit in a lead-sled well either:rolleyes:.
You should just skip the headache and take the $200;).
And whatever you do, don't listen to experienced owners that say it can easily perform at 2 MOA:eek:.
I think they're all stretching the truth;) View attachment 24781 . More like only 1.5 .
The rifles I mainly shoot are my 0.3 maximum MOA FN bolt gun, my 0.2 MOA maximum GAP bolt gun, and my 1 MOA A2 service rifle. The worst group I ever fired out of the GAP was 0.26" at 100 yards. I no longer shoot those bullets and the problem went away.

When I say the rifle is printing 40 MOA groups, I mean a 5 round group measured 11.8 mils. That's more dope than I dial for 1100 yards.

And as far as the muzzle threads, they're cut wrong. Poor engineering. Incompatible with any muzzle device I know of.
 

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40 moa is a lot, as far as rifles and riflemen working as they should, but as far as flinches, bad scopes, loose rails, loose scopes, or other sources of sighting mechanisms bouncing around it really isn't that big. I am sorry, though, that you and your RFB aren't getting along. For what purpose did you decide to acquire a semi-auto 308? If your bolt guns are as accurate as you say, maybe you had something else in mind besides hunting and plinking and such. You might be better served by, shall we say, a more "low maintenance girlfriend" than the RFB seems to be for you.
 

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For what purpose did you decide to acquire a semi-auto 308? If your bolt guns are as accurate as you say, maybe you had something else in mind besides hunting and plinking and such. You might be better served by, shall we say, a more "low maintenance girlfriend" than the RFB seems to be for you.
Interesting observation.
Connect that with:
Friday, I picked up an AR10 I had built. It had a random series of steps instead of a shoulder, so I sold it for a loss of a couple hundred bucks Monday.
The AR10 was that bad too?:headstratch:
Gunsmiths can handle simple problems like mounting a suppressor on an AR10 or RFB.

The $300 is still strong:D.
 

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Grand Poobah
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I just picked up an RFB and went home and took off the flash hider.
No can, just bare threads.
Check accuracy with the flash hider re-installed.

And as far as the muzzle threads, they're cut wrong. Poor engineering. Incompatible with any muzzle device I know of.
You're right. No way you should have to tolerate something that defective. Even the KT supplied flash hider probably doesn't fit right. I'll go $310 salvage value. You keep the scope and can. :eek:

Seriously, if it is cycling properly (responsive to gas adjustment), thoroughly check all rail and scope mount points for looseness (as you probably already have), and substitute a different scope or sight.

If all else fails, 310 is a better offer than Blake. He's always trolling for a bottom of barrel bargain. :eek:
 
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