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Must have upgrades for KS7?

514 Views 25 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  BJK
Mine is just a range toy so I won't be adding lights, lasers, side saddles etc. I would like to mount a red dot on it, though. Something like the Vortex Viper or Holosun 507C
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Small size LimbSaver recoil pad. You’ll thank me.

Can’t go wrong with the Holosun. I use a 503GU (green circle, but I don’t think that model is still in production.)

The KT rail replacement for the carry handle is solid. UTG sells a very lightweight but solid riser mount.
If you do some reading here, there posts on a number of ways to use a dot sight mounted on the stock carry handle.
Of course you can remove the handle and install the Kel-Tec Pickatinny rail from the KSG.
Kel-Tec sells a kit to do this.

Another good addition is the mentioned Limbsaver slip-on recoil pad, or the extended factory pad Kel-Tec sells.
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If you do some reading here, there posts on a number of ways to use a dot sight mounted on the stock carry handle.
Of course you can remove the handle and install the Kel-Tec Pickatinny rail from the KSG.
Kel-Tec sells a kit to do this.

Another good addition is the mentioned Limbsaver slip-on recoil pad, or the extended factory pad Kel-Tec sells.
How does swapping the handle for the rail effect cheek weld?
How does swapping the handle for the rail effect cheek weld?
How does swapping the handle for the rail effect cheek weld?
It depends entirely on the height of the sight mount. But if your intended use of your KS7 is at the range only, you don't need an aftermarket sight unless you're firing slugs at 50+ yard ranges. Have you fired slugs from your KS7 yet?
How does swapping the handle for the rail effect cheek weld?
For me, using the stock sight is blurry, so I've installed a picatinny rail to mount a Red Dot. Cheek weld using the stock sight was usable, but low for me. With pic rail on it, pretty much perfect.
If it was just the a pic rail, that wouldn't work for me.
For me, using the stock sight is blurry, so I've installed a picatinny rail to mount a Red Dot. Cheek weld using the stock sight was usable, but low for me. With pic rail on it, pretty much perfect.
If it was just the a pic rail, that wouldn't work for me.
You mounted a rail on the factory carry handle? What rail did you go with? Any pics?
You mounted a rail on the factory carry handle? What rail did you go with? Any pics?
I'll try to do this, this weekend. I will be doing it soon if not. Kind of an introduction, showing the upgrades I've done. Might be a separate thread.
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Cheek weld versus rails and sights is regulated by the mount used and the type sight.
Most rail mount sights these days are set up for the AR-15 rifle, but by selecting mount heights you can usually get what you need.

In normal shotgun shooting cheek weld doesn't seem to be as critical as in rifle shooting.

There are AR-15 carry handle sight mounts that can be used on the KS7 carry handle. Some are printed plastic, but one is aluminum...........

Cheek weld versus rails and sights is regulated by the mount used and the type sight.
Most rail mount sights these days are set up for the AR-15 rifle, but by selecting mount heights you can usually get what you need.

In normal shotgun shooting cheek weld doesn't seem to be as critical as in rifle shooting.

There are AR-15 carry handle sight mounts that can be used on the KS7 carry handle. Some are printed plastic, but one is aluminum...........

I did mention the type of optic I plan to use & I do want a proper cheek weld
UTG makes various height picatinny riser mounts. I use the .83" height one with my Holosun 503GU and it puts it perfect height for a proper cheek weld for me. YMMV


Ignore the Bulldot laser in this pic… I haven’t decided if it’s staying or going yet.



To determine the riser height you need, measure the sight from the underside of the mount (top of the rail) to the dot, and subtract that from how high your eye is above the rail with a proper cheek weld. Measuring the latter is easier with a friend helping.
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There's an old do it yourself method for measuring sights.

Get a piece of cardboard and bend it into an "L" shape.
Up the long leg punch small holes every 1/8th of an inch and number them.
Tape it to the gun.

Close your eyes and get into shooting position with a cheek weld that feels just right.
Open you eyes and see which hole you're looking through.
Measure how high that is and buy the sight or riser you need.
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You mounted a rail on the factory carry handle? What rail did you go with? Any pics?
Here's how I did mine. Granted, not many will be able to do this since it's custom.

This is the mount I started with.








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Another option to mount Red Dot on handle
View attachment 59270
That would be a chin weld at best for me. KT designed the carry handle such that the integrated sight would be at a reasonable cheek weld height. Unless you’re mounting the red dot down into the handle it’s gonna be overly high for practical use.

Would you mind measuring the vertical height from the top of the receiver at your cheek to the center of the red dot reticle?

I’m very curious how much difference in height there is between yours and mine.
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Everyone has unique issues and desires. To keep the handle (which I did) means the handle aiming trench ("HAT") is about equal to "cowitness" AR iron sights. For me, looking down the "HAT" requires a FIRM cheek weld - I feel as thought I am adding significant pressure on face.
This is a a non scientific overlay of 2 small 1913 rails which I threw on handle-less KS7 and mounted MAGPUL iron sights. It shows a very small disparity between "AR cowitness" and "HAT".

ANY Red Dot ("RD") will require some adjustment. This setup is a "lower jaw weld" but when using "RD" - I try not to worry about any weld and just aim. Training training training.
The only way to minimize extra height would be:
  1. shortest "RD" possible - micro "RD" (RMSc) with small window will help lower the dot compared to the biggest windowed "RD"
  2. shortest mount possible above "HAT" - "made for AR handle" scope mounts as suggested was too tall for me. The mount I use presents 1913 rail as low as possible
  3. the only way to mount "RD" lower on the handle requires altering physics:
a. cutting side walls of handle and mounting to floor of trench. I actually pondering doing this.​
b. If you can find anything narrow enough to fit inside "HAT" - good luck with that.​
c. I also pondered mounting "RD" upside down with window in the "HAT" but again finding anything narrow enough was impossible which would mean an upside-down mounted RD with the sides of handle cut out and some insane mounting bracket.​
Here is a RMSc "RD" for 9mm pistol just sitting on handle: so there is some advantage to finding a way to make THAT happen. But even adding a mounting plate under it (it needs something to water proof the bottom where battery goes) raises the micro RD a bit, and that plate needs something to bolt to..... There is a made for KS7 RMR footprint mount for handle but RMR is a full size pistol "RD" and probably places window exactly where 1913 mounted "RD" window is.


It is important for me to preserve "HAT" view under "RD" in case "RD" fails or falls off or whatever. In fact, this kind of rail mount creates "rear Ghost sight" just by itself. I think the "made for AR handle" scope mount has a giant screw going vertically through the mount which makes looking under "RD" all but impossible - but I could be wrong.

Casual measurements:
  • trench floor 1 5/8" above the cheek weld
  • Bushnell TRS-25 Red Dot center 2 6/8" (almost 2 7/8") above cheek weld
For size comparison, below is "RD" on Cowitness Mount (as it would be on AR) on top of KS7 mount: AR Cowitness mount is .83" and offers a big peek through square tunnel. Not much to learn from doing this - just comparing sizes. This would be beyond 1/3 Cowitness.


So that was a bunch of opinion on top of a few facts.
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As is usually the case, the height of an accessory sight on the KS7 is going to depend on the user.
In my case I'd have to have a higher mount because no matter how I contort I cannot get my face low enough to use the stock front sight and the lug rear sight.

Since my KS7 is a pure inside the home across the living room defense gun, I don't need a sight and I just use the top of the handle as a reference sight.
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Finally picked mine up yesterday and I'm definitely going to need some sort of riser if I want to get a cheek weld with a dot on the factory handle. Otherwise, I'm going to have to replace the factory handle with a rail. I would like to have irons as well as a dot. Do I have to give up irons If I get rid of the factory handle?
Not if you replace the carry handle with a rail.
Do I have to give up irons If I get rid of the factory handle?
No. There are 2 possibilities for actual sights. One is a hollow riser where the BUIS can be seen through it if they're high enough. That wouldn't be my first choice if you're already having issues with sights. The other are 45 degree offset pic rails. By themselves and BUIS you might have issues, but they can be built up to give enough rise to the sights to get you what you need. If you get folding BUIS (back up iron sights) they will be out of the way until needed. But it's a shotgun and the buttpad won't be properly placed to handle recoil with the offset mounts. Just be aware that it might not work as well as you might wish, but BUIS are for back up, otherwise known as emergency use and not everyday use.

Then there is a targeting laser that projects a dot onto the target. There is an outfit whose name I can't recall that sells a 90 degree pic rail from the upper rail that will position the laser/light right where it should be for thumb activation.

My KS7 has a red dot on a riser, no BUIS, but a laser/light combo. In use at bad breath distance the KS7 would never get raised to the shoulder but held under my strong side arm and pulled back and the laser used for targeting. The light is used for last second confirmation of the target. The red dot sight would only be used for more distant shots that would be extremely difficult to justify as self or home defense, or as back up to the laser. The red dot is sighted in and the laser is adjusted to the sight dot at the chosen distance. If you get a red dot sight and a green laser there will be no confusion when sighting in the laser from the sight.

OK, so why tucked under an arm? A long gun poking way out can be levered away from the user. But a long gun pulled back and with a hand out near the muzzle is much harder to take from the user. That's for a conventional long gun. That technique with a bullpup works even better.
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