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Continued from Part I

Ideally you would polish the breech face after the chamfer of the hole, if you have already done this just put a little rouge on the end of your buffing bullet and give it a quick polish after you chamfer it.

While we have the slide apart I did a close inspection of the firing pin channel, it needed help. Here is what I came up with;



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Some of the tools used to do the firing pin channel polish.

Take a common wire cored pipe cleaner and rub a liberal amount of polishing compound over the first three or so inches of it. Chuck it up in a drill set to high-speed, insert the now saturated pipe cleaner into the hole in the back of the slide, guiding it through the front of the breech where the firing pin would protrude. Power up your drill and move the pipe cleaner in and out until you think its cleaned up.

I did this for maybe a total of 30 seconds, depending on the aggressiveness of your compound will determine how much time you spend
here, remember don't remove metal, just polish whats there!

This will take care of the most narrow area where the channel narrows down towards the breech. then take a good wood handled Q-Tip and put some compound on it, the larger size of the channel towards the rear of the slide is where you will concentrate this effort, chuck the Q-Tip up in your drill as we did before, apply a dab of polishing compound and polish the larger area of the firing pin channel.

When you finish with the polishing this chuck a clean pipe cleaner in your drill and clean/polish the channel. A clean Q-Tip will polish the larger area, I repeat the process with some Simichrome , pipe cleaner, Q-Tip routine once more. At the end of your polishing routine take some good degreaser/Hoppes and clean the hole out.

You dont want to leave any compound or Loc-Tite residue from the extractor spring hold-down screw in the channel. With your bore scope it should look like a little mirrored cave now . Your firing pin and spring have already been polished via the standard F&B instructions.

The added step I do here is to heat the slide with a hair dryer and apply some mil-tech. You don't want to leave a lot of oil in here to contaminate your primers, so a quick blast from the firing pin hole towards the rear of the slide will blow out the excess lube. Reassemble and feel the action of the firing pin with your finger, beautiful, just beautiful :eek: DIDN'T YOUR MOMMY LOVE YOU PRIVATE PYLE? DROP THE WEAPON



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Here is a cheap way to build a nice little block to disassemble your pistols on, you can make them for less than a dollar each, the layout is up to you but here are a few I made, the V grooved one will hold round objects securely, the holes allow you to drift pins out, the material wont mar or scratch anything I have found. As they say, a picture is worth, well :-/



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I have found these little .99 cent hockey pucks invaluable in drilling, pounding and disassembly of stuff (read..pistols...). I used a woodworking router to cut the grooves in them, the stuff machines great but makes a mess of little black rubber shavings everywhere.

These two additions or perhaps modifications as appropriate; to the Fluff & Buff instructions and suggestions I have read elsewhere for the Kel-Tec pistols made a huge improvement in the function and feel of my P-3AT, so much in fact that I thought I would spend a little time sharing them with you.

Thanks for all of the posts I have enjoyed reading here on KTOG

Here is a link to "Must Do Fluff & Buff Additions, Part I
http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=104;action=display;num=1180018193

Tractorshaft
 
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