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Misfire - New G22 40 (Chronic)

5K views 40 replies 10 participants last post by  CourageousLion 
#1 ·
I’ve only fired about 275 rounds since receiving this little carbine but it has a chronic failure to fire problem. The primer is being dented but it‘s always at the very top circle of the primer. This occurs regardless of which magazine I use. I have used the factory-provided 10 rd. mag, and new Glock 22 factory mags, both 15 rd. and 22 rd. and I still get FTF(s) about every 2-3 or 3-4 rounds. :eek:

When you pull the trigger you feel the action work (click) but the round doesn’t fire although every non-firing round has the primer dimpled (top circle) by the firing pin. This happens regardless of how fast or slow I pull the trigger.

Federal and Remington 155 grain JHP is all that has been fired and no hot loads at all. Contemplating a good cleaning and bolt assembly exam followed by trying some Winchester 180 FMJ to see what happens … (???)

Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. :confused:
 
#4 ·
how are the firing pin marks on the rounds that do fire? Is the mark in the same location? Mag should have nothing to do with it, the round is in the chamber by the time your problem is happening.
If you look at the bottom of the cartridge with the pin facing you, the hits are occurring in the very top center of the cap. On occasion hitting the top as much to also slightly dimple the corresponding circle of the brass casing where the primer is pressed in. The dimples are sometimes deeper than other times but most always in the same place.

Seems like it isn't going in to battery fully. I've checked the trigger guard at it is always properly positioned (closed).
 
#5 · (Edited)
Offset primer strikes are normal in the Sub2K, but yours sound like they are too far out of spec. It probably worked for the few rounds they test fired with, but showed up under normal use. Call Kel-tec and see if they will just send you a replacement bolt. They will probably ask for yours in return. Take a picture of a struck primer to email to them. But call first and speak to Shawn.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thanks for the responses. :)

Did an owner's manual tube disassembly today and I noticed 3 things;

1. The forward bolt piece housing the firing pin assembly had an ever-so-slight burr which was not initially seen with the eye but turned up after the cleaning rag snagged on it. This needs to be smoothed out.

2. Examined the forward bolt piece real close with regards to the rear, and then the front, of the firing pin. The rear part of the firing pin that appears to have some what of an "L" shape protrudes a but more than the front of the firing pin when I push slightly on the rear part of the pin.

A couple of times I pushed on the rear part (spring loaded) of the pin all the way until it "bottomed" and the front of the firing pin didn't show itself at all, otherwise just a real small part came out, and when it did it was a shorter length than the part of the piece that is exposed in the rear.

I did note that the front of the firing pin appears properly rounded as opposed to jagged, etc., as it would look if it had been possibly broken.

3. Even though I had dissambled, cleaned (and re-oiled) all the machining oil off the bolt assembly and tube pieces before the first trip to the range, the bolt assembly and related areas of the gun were very dirty after just the relative few rounds that I fired but I dont know if this was excessive or not for this weapon after firing that number of rounds.

I coated the parts with Break-Free and let them soak a bit as suggested. I don't know if I should tear in to the firing pin assembly or not before I call Kel-Tec?

My serial number begins with "EE" and I dont know if this is one of those weapons that had the bad firing pins (from an outsourced supplier) installed at the factory ... :confused:

Again gentlemen ... I welcome your criticism, suggestions, and advice.:cool:
 
#10 ·
What A Mess !!!

WOW ... Now I cant get the bolt assembly back in. The hammer will not collapse properly and appears to be offset. I followed the owner's manual instructions EXACTLY; charged, on safe, no pulling of the trigger.

What's up with all this ... ???
 
#11 · (Edited)
Got it back together. Seems the hammer might be a little bent and of course that might cause the firing pin to fail to operate as it's supposed to. Seems as though the bolt is rotated off-center a bit because of this. Dont know how much that will affect the FP operation as there is not much to that tiny little piece.

The bolt assembly installation is a real PITA, to say the least. Had to depress the hammer a bit while sliding the bolt in. Got to be an easier way to do this. The instructions make it sound so simple. :confused:

I'll see what happens tomorrow with the other ammo.
 
#12 ·
I have to depress the hammer with a large flathead screwdriver to get the bolt back in, new .40 subbie. I read this may get easier over time. Was very frustrating until I figured out the trick. It sounds like you may be able to work out some thinngs like the burr but I would still call Kel Tec.
 
#13 ·
DUDE!! FAQ is your friend! It's in there. I really don't think you would have one of the bad firing pins. That problem was well over a year ago, and hasn't come up in a long while. There have been some come out with metal shavings in the firing pin channel. This can prevent the firing pin from getting a full throw. The firing pin is held in the bolt by a roll pin in 1 side of the bolt. But seriously with the described offset of your primer strike it is my best recommendation to call Kel-tec and get them to send you a replacement bolt. It's an obviously simply swap, and you won't have to wait 3 - 6 weeks to get your gun back.

Read the link in the FAQ about re-installing the bolt. It will get easier with use.
 
#14 ·
And for anyone else going in there with steel tools to depress the hammer, be advised if you do it wrong you have a very good chance of breaking the plastic feed ramp in the end of the tube. It's why we recommend a wooden dowel or wood handled spoon.
 
#15 ·
Having posted those last 2 I am obviously behind the curve on keeping up with this thread. GRA, I'm not saying it is not bent, but in 6 years of membership of this forum I have never heard of a bent hammer. It will protrude up into the tube about 1/4" when fully cocked, and the bolt WILL ride over it eventually. Mine only need a little pressure on the recoil spring now.
 
#16 ·
Thanks! I suggest adding the warning on the possible consequences of using metal tools for this to the faq. The first wooden tool I attempted was too flexible so of course I grabbed something with less flex.
 
#17 ·
No lower than 165 grn, soak it with breakfree LP then blow it off. Do mags too! Wipe down and shoot and repeat shoot and repeat. What do I know...
And you don't need to worry about lighter weight bullets in the .40's. That is pretty much 9mm specific, and only during break in. I shoot 165gr WWB FMJ almost exclusively in mine.
 
#18 ·
I did read FAQ and followed the suggestion of depressing the hammer which is what I did. I used a long Craftsman hook tool that is hard steel but small and wont snag anything else. Didn't have to depress it much and the bolt slid right in.

Wearing this bolt assembly in over time for eventual ease of reassembly is quite unnatural for weapons cleaning. The reason it was so stubborn might have something to do with the hammer being bent. I can understand a little persuasion now and then but there must be something else wrong.

I'll see what Kel-Tec says when I call them. If I need to send it in I'll simply send it in but I want them to REPAIR the problem the first time. Might even ask them to do a trigger job while they're in there. Dont mind splurging a few bucks for smooth operation.
 
#20 ·
I did read FAQ and followed the suggestion of depressing the hammer which is what I did. I used a long Craftsman hook tool that is hard steel but small and wont snag anything else. Didn't have to depress it much and the bolt slid right in.

Wearing this bolt assembly in over time for eventual ease of reassembly is quite unnatural for weapons cleaning. The reason it was so stubborn might have something to do with the hammer being bent. I can understand a little persuasion now and then but there must be something else wrong.

I'll see what Kel-Tec says when I call them. If I need to send it in I'll simply send it in but I want them to REPAIR the problem the first time. Might even ask them to do a trigger job while they're in there. Dont mind splurging a few bucks for smooth operation.
To my understanding KT doesn't do modifications. They just replace parts to bring it back to OEM operation. I could be wrong...
 
#21 · (Edited)
Thanks for all Yall's advice and answers. I'll update this thread after I speak to Kel-Tec.

I'm also going to ask them if there are any pieces they WONT sell or ship as replacements. I'll put that answer on here too.
They pretty much sell any part. The site doesn't have them all listed but you can order them if you call them. I recently ordered some extra parts: an extractor, extractor spring, extractor pin, FP pin and FP spring. It was around $10 bucks shipped.
 
#22 ·
They pretty much sell any part. The site doesn't have them all listed but you can order them you call them. I recently ordered some extra parts: an extractor, extractor spring, extractor pin, FP pin and FP spring. It was around $10 bucks shipped.
Thanks for the information. I'll keep the thread updated. Thanks again to all the others that contributed. :D
 
#24 ·
I think I should add that after reading some of the other threads and photos I checked and dont have a pinned barrel neither. :eek:
Forgive me if I'm mistaken, but it almost seems like you are looking for reasons not to like your Sub 2000. And if you spend enough time in here reading reported problems you will find many to pick it apart. It is the nature of this and any other product specific forum that more problems will be reported than happy owners will show up. Most happy owners see no reason to find us and simply report they had a perfectly normal, problem free range session. Most (99.99%) of us who have bought these before 2010 are without pinned barrels, and blissfully ignorant of that fact. It has actually been a very rare occurrence that the barrel works loose, and in the majority of those cases it has been due to the shooter wanting to use it as a 1000 round per range session baby battle rifle. Which it quite obviously is not.

You might not by chance be one of those "glass is half empty" kind of guys could you?

And I am not poo-pooing your bolt/firing pin problem. That needs to be addressed. But let's get past that before we decide the rest of the gun is sub par. ;)
 
#25 ·
Like almost all subbies out there, my old subbie has no pinned barrel, which bothers me not. It has never missed a beat. :)
 
#26 ·
Forgive me if I'm mistaken, but it almost seems like you are looking for reasons not to like your Sub 2000. And if you spend enough time in here reading reported problems you will find many to pick it apart. It is the nature of this and any other product specific forum that more problems will be reported than happy owners will show up. Most happy owners see no reason to find us and simply report they had a perfectly normal, problem free range session. Most (99.99%) of us who have bought these before 2010 are without pinned barrels, and blissfully ignorant of that fact. It has actually been a very rare occurrence that the barrel works loose, and in the majority of those cases it has been due to the shooter wanting to use it as a 1000 round per range session baby battle rifle. Which it quite obviously is not.

You might not by chance be one of those "glass is half empty" kind of guys could you?

And I am not poo-pooing your bolt/firing pin problem. That needs to be addressed. But let's get past that before we decide the rest of the gun is sub par. ;)
OK ... You're forgiven for being very mistaken. How you get all this from what I've posted I'll never understand. I'm simply trying to put the information out there with regards to what I am experiencing and what range my serial number is in. This has been referenced in another thread and serial number ranges were cited/discussed.

Please read my other posts before you make such wrong statements; I've already stated that I contacted CDNN yesterday to be put on their list for 3 more Kel-Tec weapons, one of them of course being another SUB2000. :)

I am a very blunt and direct person. If I didn't like the SUB 2000 I would've simply come out and said so, just like I do with just about everything else. I currently own 2 Kel-Tec firearms. Obviously I have no problems with their products.

When I call them and speak with them I am going to request the rifle be sent in. I want the hammer / bolt issue resolved but I will also ask them to pin the barrel if they are able to do so. I would've never known about all this if I hadn't read the information on this site. Trying to get eveything fixed during the first days of ownership in hopes that I wont have to deal with anything else later makes perfect sense to me.

And yes, I probably am one of the "glass is half empty sort of guys", but so what?

Please be more open-minded and receptive to the thread, the issue(s), the responses, and additional updates/posts. We may all learn something new here which can benefit future owners.

Thanks again for all the assistance.
 
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