[GRA]

I’ve only fired about 275 rounds since receiving this little carbine but it has a chronic failure to fire problem. The primer is being dented but it‘s always at the very top circle of the primer. This occurs regardless of which magazine I use. I have used the factory-provided 10 rd. mag, and new Glock 22 factory mags, both 15 rd. and 22 rd. and I still get FTF(s) about every 2-3 or 3-4 rounds.

When you pull the trigger you feel the action work (click) but the round doesn’t fire although every non-firing round has the primer dimpled (top circle) by the firing pin. This happens regardless of how fast or slow I pull the trigger.

Federal and Remington 155 grain JHP is all that has been fired and no hot loads at all. Contemplating a good cleaning and bolt assembly exam followed by trying some Winchester 180 FMJ to see what happens … (???)

Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[cali201]

how are the firing pin marks on the rounds that do fire? Is the mark in the same location? Mag should have nothing to do with it, the round is in the chamber by the time your problem is happening.

 

[Mikelecka]

No lower than 165 grn, soak it with breakfree LP then blow it off. Do mags too! Wipe down and shoot and repeat shoot and repeat. What do I know...

 

[GRA]

how are the firing pin marks on the rounds that do fire? Is the mark in the same location? Mag should have nothing to do with it, the round is in the chamber by the time your problem is happening.

If you look at the bottom of the cartridge with the pin facing you, the hits are occurring in the very top center of the cap. On occasion hitting the top as much to also slightly dimple the corresponding circle of the brass casing where the primer is pressed in. The dimples are sometimes deeper than other times but most always in the same place.

Seems like it isn't going in to battery fully. I've checked the trigger guard at it is always properly positioned (closed).

 

[3wbdriver]

Offset primer strikes are normal in the Sub2K, but yours sound like they are too far out of spec. It probably worked for the few rounds they test fired with, but showed up under normal use. Call Kel-tec and see if they will just send you a replacement bolt. They will probably ask for yours in return. Take a picture of a struck primer to email to them. But call first and speak to Shawn.

 

[jayta98]

yeah that sounds like the FP is hitting way off. The only other thing I can think is a dirty FP channel but you bought brand new so it should be the issue. I will follow 3wbdriver advise to call KT.

 

[buzzsaw]

yeah that sounds like the FP is hitting way off. The only other thing I can think is a dirty FP channel but you bought brand new so it should be the issue. I will follow 3wbdriver advise to call KT.

There could be metal turnings or other manufacturing debris in the firing pin channel. Perhaps a defective or bent firing pin.

buzzsaw

 

[GRA]

Thanks for the responses.

Did an owner's manual tube disassembly today and I noticed 3 things;

1. The forward bolt piece housing the firing pin assembly had an ever-so-slight burr which was not initially seen with the eye but turned up after the cleaning rag snagged on it. This needs to be smoothed out.

2. Examined the forward bolt piece real close with regards to the rear, and then the front, of the firing pin. The rear part of the firing pin that appears to have some what of an "L" shape protrudes a but more than the front of the firing pin when I push slightly on the rear part of the pin.

A couple of times I pushed on the rear part (spring loaded) of the pin all the way until it "bottomed" and the front of the firing pin didn't show itself at all, otherwise just a real small part came out, and when it did it was a shorter length than the part of the piece that is exposed in the rear.

I did note that the front of the firing pin appears properly rounded as opposed to jagged, etc., as it would look if it had been possibly broken.

3. Even though I had dissambled, cleaned (and re-oiled) all the machining oil off the bolt assembly and tube pieces before the first trip to the range, the bolt assembly and related areas of the gun were very dirty after just the relative few rounds that I fired but I dont know if this was excessive or not for this weapon after firing that number of rounds.

I coated the parts with Break-Free and let them soak a bit as suggested. I don't know if I should tear in to the firing pin assembly or not before I call Kel-Tec?

My serial number begins with "EE" and I dont know if this is one of those weapons that had the bad firing pins (from an outsourced supplier) installed at the factory ...

Again gentlemen ... I welcome your criticism, suggestions, and advice.

 

[GRA]

No lower than 165 grn, soak it with breakfree LP then blow it off. Do mags too! Wipe down and shoot and repeat shoot and repeat. What do I know...

Thanks for establishing a minimum standard for me. I'll try the 180 FMJ rounds once I get it back together and I'll see what happens.

 

[GRA]

What A Mess !!!

WOW ... Now I cant get the bolt assembly back in. The hammer will not collapse properly and appears to be offset. I followed the owner's manual instructions EXACTLY; charged, on safe, no pulling of the trigger.

What's up with all this ... ???

 

[GRA]

Got it back together. Seems the hammer might be a little bent and of course that might cause the firing pin to fail to operate as it's supposed to. Seems as though the bolt is rotated off-center a bit because of this. Dont know how much that will affect the FP operation as there is not much to that tiny little piece.

The bolt assembly installation is a real PITA, to say the least. Had to depress the hammer a bit while sliding the bolt in. Got to be an easier way to do this. The instructions make it sound so simple.

I'll see what happens tomorrow with the other ammo.

 

[Beastly]

I have to depress the hammer with a large flathead screwdriver to get the bolt back in, new .40 subbie. I read this may get easier over time. Was very frustrating until I figured out the trick. It sounds like you may be able to work out some thinngs like the burr but I would still call Kel Tec.

 

[3wbdriver]

DUDE!! FAQ is your friend! It's in there. I really don't think you would have one of the bad firing pins. That problem was well over a year ago, and hasn't come up in a long while. There have been some come out with metal shavings in the firing pin channel. This can prevent the firing pin from getting a full throw. The firing pin is held in the bolt by a roll pin in 1 side of the bolt. But seriously with the described offset of your primer strike it is my best recommendation to call Kel-tec and get them to send you a replacement bolt. It's an obviously simply swap, and you won't have to wait 3 - 6 weeks to get your gun back.

Read the link in the FAQ about re-installing the bolt. It will get easier with use.

 

[3wbdriver]

And for anyone else going in there with steel tools to depress the hammer, be advised if you do it wrong you have a very good chance of breaking the plastic feed ramp in the end of the tube. It's why we recommend a wooden dowel or wood handled spoon.

 

[3wbdriver]

Having posted those last 2 I am obviously behind the curve on keeping up with this thread. GRA, I'm not saying it is not bent, but in 6 years of membership of this forum I have never heard of a bent hammer. It will protrude up into the tube about 1/4" when fully cocked, and the bolt WILL ride over it eventually. Mine only need a little pressure on the recoil spring now.

 

[Beastly]

Thanks! I suggest adding the warning on the possible consequences of using metal tools for this to the faq. The first wooden tool I attempted was too flexible so of course I grabbed something with less flex.

 

[3wbdriver]

No lower than 165 grn, soak it with breakfree LP then blow it off. Do mags too! Wipe down and shoot and repeat shoot and repeat. What do I know...

And you don't need to worry about lighter weight bullets in the .40's. That is pretty much 9mm specific, and only during break in. I shoot 165gr WWB FMJ almost exclusively in mine.

 

[GRA]

I did read FAQ and followed the suggestion of depressing the hammer which is what I did. I used a long Craftsman hook tool that is hard steel but small and wont snag anything else. Didn't have to depress it much and the bolt slid right in.

Wearing this bolt assembly in over time for eventual ease of reassembly is quite unnatural for weapons cleaning. The reason it was so stubborn might have something to do with the hammer being bent. I can understand a little persuasion now and then but there must be something else wrong.

I'll see what Kel-Tec says when I call them. If I need to send it in I'll simply send it in but I want them to REPAIR the problem the first time. Might even ask them to do a trigger job while they're in there. Dont mind splurging a few bucks for smooth operation.

 

[GRA]

Thanks for all Yall's advice and answers. I'll update this thread after I speak to Kel-Tec.

I'm also going to ask them if there are any pieces they WONT sell or ship as replacements. I'll put that answer on here too.

 

[jayta98]

I did read FAQ and followed the suggestion of depressing the hammer which is what I did. I used a long Craftsman hook tool that is hard steel but small and wont snag anything else. Didn't have to depress it much and the bolt slid right in.

Wearing this bolt assembly in over time for eventual ease of reassembly is quite unnatural for weapons cleaning. The reason it was so stubborn might have something to do with the hammer being bent. I can understand a little persuasion now and then but there must be something else wrong.

I'll see what Kel-Tec says when I call them. If I need to send it in I'll simply send it in but I want them to REPAIR the problem the first time. Might even ask them to do a trigger job while they're in there. Dont mind splurging a few bucks for smooth operation.

To my understanding KT doesn't do modifications. They just replace parts to bring it back to OEM operation. I could be wrong...