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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In the past 3-400 rounds I have been getting some failures to fire. It's only been about 1 or 2 out of 100 rounds, but it has happened with 2 types of ammo: Winchester (white box) and American Eagle FMJ.

Every time it happens the primer has a dent in it. Usually I can just try firing the same round again, and usually, the second time around, it works. I think there was one time with the WWB ammo that it DID NOT fire the second time around.

When I first bought this gun, I had a broken hammer spring within the first 200 rounds. I was told it was a fluke, and that I should call Kel-tec and ask for a replacement, which I did. I installed the hammer spring and the gun worked fine up until the light strikes started happening.

Now, this WAS my first attempt at installing a hammer spring, and I had a hell of a time with it. So, I am sure I probably overstretched it accidentally.

Could this be the cause of my problem???
 

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MAYBE! But with so few occurances, It couldn't be over stretched much. Does the trigger pull feel lighter?

I'm wondering if you might be short-stroking the trigger once in a while. AE and WWB have fairly soft primers, and if it happens with both, then I would rule out the ammo.

Have you been firing a Glock lately? ;D

Are the primer dents centered on the primer or off to one side? Something (like worn recoil springs or slide burrs) could be causing it to fire out of battery.

There is also the possibility that some shavings or something have gotten into the firing pin channel.

Packer.
 

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CHANGING P3AT OR PF9 EXTRACTOR
First order new extractor, spring and new hardened button head screw. Buy some blue loctite.

WITHOUT MESSING WITH FIRING PIN:

1. Dry fire.
2. Leave hammer down. Do not move slide.
3. Remove button head screw. Heat to loosen if necessary.
4. Remove old spring and extractor. Clean away any carbon deposits under extractor and spring and ON spring.
5. Replace extractor and spring.
6. Apply a wee bit of loctite on threads just under head of screw.
7. If slide has not been moved: Install screw and tighten.

WITH FIRING PIN:

1. Remove slide.
2. Fold a towel and rest the back of slide on it.
3. Remove button head, spring and extractor.
4. Lift slide and shake out firing pin and spring. If spring won't come out, push through breechface with a toothpick.
5. Clean burrs out of firing pin channel with aptly sized drill bit. (by hand with in and out motion.
6. Finish cleaning with a (tobacco) pipe cleaner.
7. Spray a little silicone spray in channel.
8. Install new spring and FP.
9. Install extractor and spring.
10 Apply a little blue loctite on threads just under head of screw. (with a toothpick.)
11. Insert screw and tighten just a few threads.
12. Align notch of firing pin so it is below screw. (Use coffee stirrer for PF9.)
13. Hold firing pin in and gently tighten screw.
14. Don't finish tightening until you make sure firing pin can easily move in and out.
15. Finish tightening BH screw.

Packer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Primer dents are centered. I doubt I am short stroking it for one reason.... I have basically learned how to shoot and learned about guns with this P3. It was my first gun purchase ever, and so I am actually very used to the trigger by now (1200+ rounds) . I guess it's still possible I could be short-stroking it, but I don't think so.

It's hard to tell if the trigger pull feels any lighter, since I don't have much to compare it to. And I haven't been shooting anything else lately. I also have a Subbie, but haven't shot it in a while.

I guess I could take the buttonhead off and check for shavings. Or, you also could be right about it not fully returning to battery.

So, I will need KT to send me new recoil springs, new buttonhead screw, and possibly a new hammer spring.... :-[
 

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While you have it out, you might as well order a new extractor and spring, and firing pin and spring also.

If your primer dents are centered, then it is NOT firing out of battery.

The hammerspring is most likely culprit, with possible shavings issue second.

Packer.
 

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The easy way, and the only way I know of, is to use a small flat-blade screw-driver to reach down through the grip. Push the spring catch down just far enough to turn it sideways and now release the pressure. Now take the the retainer pin out.
(Don't over-stretch the spring. Just go far enough to turn the plug, and no further.)

One the other end, use a small punch and drive out the roll-pin in the hammer just far enough to get the old spring off, and the new spring on. Then drive it back in.

Assemble in reverse order.


rcmodel
 

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  Make sure that after you take the slide off, you pull the trigger to drop the hammer. This will reduce the tension and lessen the chance of over-stretching the hammer spring.

  Don't worry about the top end. KT doesn't ship the hammer spring alone if you need it from service. Just ask for a complete hammer assembly and they will ship you a hammer already attached to the hammer spring.

Packer.
 
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rcmodel said:
The easy way, and the only way I know of, is to use a small flat-blade screw-driver to reach down through the grip. Push the spring catch down just far enough to turn it sideways and now release the pressure. Now take the the retainer pin out.
(Don't over-stretch the spring. Just go far enough to turn the plug, and no further.)

One the other end, use a small punch and drive out the roll-pin in the hammer just far enough to get the old spring off, and the new spring on. Then drive it back in.

Assemble in reverse order.


rcmodel
take a coat hanger and make a small hook on one end and a loop on the other for your finger to fit through, and you can pull that hammer sprng off real easy from the bottom of the grip. Works great for me.
 
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adamky said:
:sigh:

Is there an easy way to change the hammer spring?? The way I did it took a long time and was very difficult.

:sigh:
its not hard adamky but if you have never done it, it might seem hard, but after you do it once , you will see it is a no brainer. Hell I did it, that ought to tell you something ;D ;D
 

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I have had them send me the whole unit when I asked for the springs. Since then, I always ask for the unit but give all three part numbers. They always come as a unit.

I do the same thing when I BUY the springs and they come assembled as a unit.

Packer.
 

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I've gotten a couple of spare hammer springs with no hammer attached, but then I didn't order the hammers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I was going through some of my stuff last night trying to find my phillips head screws for my armalaser, when I came across something I had forgotten about... an extra set of Wolff recoil springs. The old ones had probably 900+ rounds through them, so it was probably time to replace them anyways.

The new ones were noticeably longer than the old ones....by at least 1/4 of an inch:



I am going to call KT today and get a new hammer spring sent my way. Hopefully that will take care of the problem.
 
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