KS7B (or how I'd improve the KS7 handle)
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Here is the link to seller
Charlie Bravo - I'm new to the forum and the foregrip strap installation is exactly why I joined now. I like your idea on the slots, would solve the problem of the screws getting in the way of anything. Please give us an update on your progress. Thanks
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I initially wanted to add a pump strap too, but eventually decided to put on a lower rail for even more possibilities. Now I gave a vertical grip on it and it works great. If you would like you can check out my post about it:
www.thektog.org
[Tutorial?] a Sleek, Clean lower rail solution to your KS7!
Heyyy! I got my KS7 several months ago, and while the original pump is alright I always wanted a lower rail like that on the KSG. To put on a grip, a flashlight etc. Recently I finally got the time to do this modification myself and it turned out nicely, so I would like to share it here. One of...
www.thektog.org
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There's a post here that addresses how to install a forearm strap to the KS7.
One member slotted the "lips" on the front and rear of the pump handle, I suggested cutting holes in the handle and using washers to reinforce small bolts to attach a nylon loop.
Here's the post..............
www.thektog.org
One member slotted the "lips" on the front and rear of the pump handle, I suggested cutting holes in the handle and using washers to reinforce small bolts to attach a nylon loop.
Here's the post..............
KS7B (or how I'd improve the KS7 handle)
SO this is a bit of fantasy unless someone from Kel-Tec wants to follow through and make this. All I ask is I get a free one. This is a culmination of everyone's gripes concerning the carry handle. Any firing functionality can be addressed elsewhere. The handle is cool looking but honestly a...
www.thektog.org
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@dfariswheel: you linked to the post you posted in! I've done the same. HA! I admit I want to change the thread title to include "pump" but don't know how.
Update for everyone waiting around for "pump strap" solution. Honestly, it has been discussed (as Dfariswheel tried to point out) at length with several ideas presented. Anyone can offer ideas and/or try it themselves. I feel like everyone is sitting on their hands, letting me be the guinea pig to see if I screw it up or something. That out of the way, here is a long summary of where I stand on Pump Strap with thoughts on V Grip
@PrismSync has presented a V Grip mod. KelTec should have incorporated ths ability into original "7" (KSG already has that option).
So back to Strap idea which should be straight forward. And it is, as long as you are ok with "as good as" the Mossberg/Remington solution. Seems a lot of folks use this on Mossy/Remmy guns and the screw heads are not an issue. I think the "7" pump lends itself to same application.
![Coil Coil spring Auto part Gas Metal]()
![Rectangle Font Bicycle part Auto part Coil]()
Search Amazon for "Shockwave Mossberg" or "Remington" (a bit longer?) or any other pump strap for kits or get generic strap and use screws of choice. Not an endorsement, just a suggestion. Mossberg kit I bought with KS7, circles are pre-made holes in strap which is why I went this way for perceived strength on strap where screws penetrate:
![Sleeve Bag Personal protective equipment Wire Bumper]()
Same strap but tucked way up above rear flare [arrows), it has some play but I would want just a bit more slack. This presents the front of strap unceremoniously on front of pump. While that hides the hideous front tooth gap, it isn't much "prettier" (see 2 pics below).
![Office equipment Gas Carbon Gun accessory Automotive exterior]()
I prefer (aka my opinion) strap over V Grip mount. Strap is:
![Air gun Trigger Material property Gun barrel Gun accessory]()
MY SOLE PURPOSE is to prevent slip of hand, not to address any “tactical” or “I like V Grips” considerations. (V Grips be cool!)
I added grip tape and went to range. The “7” does not have the KSG's flat pump handle. The curvaceous “7” pump handle has built in hand stops. They are not amazing but sufficient. Range time proved the pump handle is good with grip tape. I haven’t tried in the rain with a wet shotgun but in truth who has - grip tape should help with that too.
Still, prior to that range time, I bought "made for Mossberg" strap as mentioned above that works if you are willing to have screws in/near grip zone. It can work for various screw locations outside grip zone but some of those areas are awkaradly shaped or make strap end/screws very visible.
Due to outside of grip zone screw location being a tricky prospect, combined with “good enough pump hand stops", I have cooled my drive to do permanent alterations. Sort of waiting to have an "A-HA!" moment. Most ideas require cutting or drilling just to see if it works. While altering the carry handle is fine (replaced easily), I imagine the pump parts are harder to obtain if permanently damaged. If you miss the ideal screw hole location then you have potential swiss cheese look.
Outside GripZone screw idea. Screws would go where white arrows but the aft area is very cruved and still if screws too long might poke into GripZone
![Automotive tire Gas Rectangle Machine Metal]()
Alternate "no screws" idea
![Bag Gas Luggage and bags Rectangle Trunk]()
Someone floated the idea of using pump side slots to mount a "sideways" strap. I liked that out of the box thought but I couldn't work the strap in a way I felt was better than no strap. It would look something like this:
![Font Auto part Technology Automotive exterior Machine]()
![Gesture Office equipment Musical instrument accessory Gas Bumper]()
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Current status for ME:
Update for everyone waiting around for "pump strap" solution. Honestly, it has been discussed (as Dfariswheel tried to point out) at length with several ideas presented. Anyone can offer ideas and/or try it themselves. I feel like everyone is sitting on their hands, letting me be the guinea pig to see if I screw it up or something. That out of the way, here is a long summary of where I stand on Pump Strap with thoughts on V Grip
@PrismSync has presented a V Grip mod. KelTec should have incorporated ths ability into original "7" (KSG already has that option).
- A simple spacer in middle of handle that can be removed to present a flat MLok rail to mount 1913 adapter and V grip of choice.
- But I feel PrismSync's solution is beyond some's ability (lack of tools, feint of heart, all thumbs, etc).
So back to Strap idea which should be straight forward. And it is, as long as you are ok with "as good as" the Mossberg/Remington solution. Seems a lot of folks use this on Mossy/Remmy guns and the screw heads are not an issue. I think the "7" pump lends itself to same application.
Search Amazon for "Shockwave Mossberg" or "Remington" (a bit longer?) or any other pump strap for kits or get generic strap and use screws of choice. Not an endorsement, just a suggestion. Mossberg kit I bought with KS7, circles are pre-made holes in strap which is why I went this way for perceived strength on strap where screws penetrate:
Same strap but tucked way up above rear flare [arrows), it has some play but I would want just a bit more slack. This presents the front of strap unceremoniously on front of pump. While that hides the hideous front tooth gap, it isn't much "prettier" (see 2 pics below).
I prefer (aka my opinion) strap over V Grip mount. Strap is:
- Cheaper/faster/easier than altering pump to mount rail/V grip.
- Just screw into handle. Some worry about screw heads, but there should be something that can be put on screws to smooth that out IF it is even a problem.
- Strap is lighter than V grip
- Takes less space in my storage spot (that is a “me” problem).
- I believe the strap can be used or ignored while still installed. If in a hurry, just grab pump (strap and all). Thin nylon strap between hand & pump handle should not affect grip.
- If there is time: slip hand inside strap.
- If not, grip and rip. Strap should be long enough to allow it to be sandwiched against contour of pump.
- Bigger paws (gloves) may need more space but everyone can pick their own length.
MY SOLE PURPOSE is to prevent slip of hand, not to address any “tactical” or “I like V Grips” considerations. (V Grips be cool!)
- While shopping for KS7, I was all about not being the next KSG folklore tale. I was adamant about adding a V Grip or strap.
- V Grip is a commitment
- via PrismSync's mod, cannot be undone back to stock
- or $75 Hi-Tech add-on that adds weight and still have to buy Grip
- Resale value might be positively or negatively affected with a properly attached V Grip if that matters.
- Again, some have chastised me saying "I'd NEVER alter gun so radically!" I counter this is altering parts that can be replaced - like replacing iron sights on a pistol, actual gun itself (fire control, mag, barrel) are unaltered. Perspective people!
I added grip tape and went to range. The “7” does not have the KSG's flat pump handle. The curvaceous “7” pump handle has built in hand stops. They are not amazing but sufficient. Range time proved the pump handle is good with grip tape. I haven’t tried in the rain with a wet shotgun but in truth who has - grip tape should help with that too.
Still, prior to that range time, I bought "made for Mossberg" strap as mentioned above that works if you are willing to have screws in/near grip zone. It can work for various screw locations outside grip zone but some of those areas are awkaradly shaped or make strap end/screws very visible.
Due to outside of grip zone screw location being a tricky prospect, combined with “good enough pump hand stops", I have cooled my drive to do permanent alterations. Sort of waiting to have an "A-HA!" moment. Most ideas require cutting or drilling just to see if it works. While altering the carry handle is fine (replaced easily), I imagine the pump parts are harder to obtain if permanently damaged. If you miss the ideal screw hole location then you have potential swiss cheese look.
Outside GripZone screw idea. Screws would go where white arrows but the aft area is very cruved and still if screws too long might poke into GripZone
Alternate "no screws" idea
- requires cutting thin slits into flared hand stops and then doubling/tripling up ends to prevent it from slipping out (I believe this is what @dfariswheel was alluding to)
- Strap could be sewn on itself with a small rod to keep it from popping out of slit. I imagine this also requires removing 1 side of pump and sliding in looped ends and then sliding pump half over those to trap looped ends inside cavities. While I used the end hand stop flares, any of the hollow boxes could be used if a shorter strap was desired.
Someone floated the idea of using pump side slots to mount a "sideways" strap. I liked that out of the box thought but I couldn't work the strap in a way I felt was better than no strap. It would look something like this:
- I can see sliding hand into strap from behind and that seems legit - at least it will keep hand from slipping in front of barrel. But this requires hand to moved in 2 directions to insert/exfil hand
- You can still grab pump directly over the strap if in a hurry.
- But the deal ender was how it would attach to pump: You would have to sew end of strap onto itself after looping through MLok slot or screw into side of pump BELOW the slots which puts the dreaded screws right where fingertips wrap around. Either way my fingers would be affected by any strap located on "strong side" of pump.
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Current status for ME:
- on my mind but not loosing sleep over it. If I get inspiration, I'll definitely post here.
- looking at generic nylon straps 1” - 1.5” wide that can be screwed into less visible spots.
- nylon versus some slightly stretchy material is another angle I am pondering. Slightly stretchy material would allow strap to accommodate bigger paws (or gloved paws) and still not interfere with just grabbing pump with material in between.
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635 Posts
I have sources for small quantity non-standard type fasteners and accessories not usually found in ordinary hardware stores, and for better grades and sizes of nylon strap.
For fasteners and spacers I usually use Bolt Depot...........
www.boltdepot.com
They carry odd fasteners in stainless, carbon, plated, and nylon, along with spacers and washers, and you can buy small quantities.
For attaching a handguard sling, a stainless steel sex bolt with a smooth head would be easy on the hand, as would a Chicago key post, but I'd think a stainless sex bolt would work better.
You can buy higher grade nickel plated or black coated Chicago key posts from leather makers supply houses, and they come in various lengths.
These are a slotted head and a rounded dome head on the other half that I use for some applications in holster making, especially for use on shoulder holster harnesses.
For nylon strap and hardware I use Strapworks.
www.strapworks.com
They carry hard to find types and widths of strapping, and hard to find hardware like HK type sling hooks.
They're one of the very few sources I can find who carry .065 inch thickness 1 1/4 inch strap, which is the most used for rifle slings.
They carry light weight very flexible Mil-spec type nylon, standard rifle sling thickness nylon. and heavy SCUBA belt stiff nylon in the hard to find 1 1/2 inch width.........
Depending on how stiff a loop you want you can use the very flexible Mil-spec, the .065 type, or the very stiff SCUBA type.
Building a suitable forearm loop for the KS7 is just a matter of deciding on how you want to attach it and where, then figuring out the attaching method and hardware.
For fasteners and spacers I usually use Bolt Depot...........
Product Catalog - Bolt Depot
www.boltdepot.com
They carry odd fasteners in stainless, carbon, plated, and nylon, along with spacers and washers, and you can buy small quantities.
For attaching a handguard sling, a stainless steel sex bolt with a smooth head would be easy on the hand, as would a Chicago key post, but I'd think a stainless sex bolt would work better.
You can buy higher grade nickel plated or black coated Chicago key posts from leather makers supply houses, and they come in various lengths.
These are a slotted head and a rounded dome head on the other half that I use for some applications in holster making, especially for use on shoulder holster harnesses.
For nylon strap and hardware I use Strapworks.
Strapworks - Straps, Webbing, Tie-Downs, Buckles & More
Strapworks - Strapping, Webbing, and Hardware
www.strapworks.com
They carry hard to find types and widths of strapping, and hard to find hardware like HK type sling hooks.
They're one of the very few sources I can find who carry .065 inch thickness 1 1/4 inch strap, which is the most used for rifle slings.
They carry light weight very flexible Mil-spec type nylon, standard rifle sling thickness nylon. and heavy SCUBA belt stiff nylon in the hard to find 1 1/2 inch width.........
Depending on how stiff a loop you want you can use the very flexible Mil-spec, the .065 type, or the very stiff SCUBA type.
Building a suitable forearm loop for the KS7 is just a matter of deciding on how you want to attach it and where, then figuring out the attaching method and hardware.
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sex bolts (giggle)
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635 Posts
That's what they're called.
Ever go into a hardware store and ask a female worker for a fine bastard file?
Ever go into a hardware store and ask a female worker for a fine bastard file?
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82 Posts
So the pump strap idea is mostly a No Go for me.
After making a 550 cord strap and looking at nylon strap, there isn’t a good aft mount location on existing pump.
![Automotive exterior Trigger Automotive tire Gas Air gun]()
Arrow shows how pump release moves when trigger pulled, then pump cycled it moves back. When the pump moves fully aft, any strap mounted outside aft hand stop flare could prevent full engagement of internal chamber parts. Mounting inside the hand area of pump might cause rubbing.
After making a 550 cord strap and looking at nylon strap, there isn’t a good aft mount location on existing pump.
Arrow shows how pump release moves when trigger pulled, then pump cycled it moves back. When the pump moves fully aft, any strap mounted outside aft hand stop flare could prevent full engagement of internal chamber parts. Mounting inside the hand area of pump might cause rubbing.
I like the grabability of the handle and I like the side M-LOKs (for flashlight and laser). But I find the inbuilt fibre optic sight to be slow for equal-height, equal-light aiming. I saw other threads posted here about embedding a peep tube in the handle (as a rear sight). But this would not be adjustable, interferes with the form factor of the handle and prevents adding the AR-15 picatinny mini rail into the handle (I attach that for red dots or scope on occasion).
I wanted better off-the-rack accuracy without altering the form factor of the KS7 ...
![Air gun Trigger Line Gun barrel Gun accessory]()
![Hood Gas Bumper Motor vehicle Door]()
I added a short (5 rail) picatinny to the rear section of the handle. This was to allow the (optional) addition of a standard rear backup iron sight (flip up). These can be aligned with the fibre optic green arrow upfront in the handle, and is faster to get a sight picture than using the handle tube alone (and has windage adjustment). Not needed for transport or at very close range, flip them down. For 25 yards use the large aperture. For 50 yards+ use the small aperture. Advantages are: does not interfere with shape, form or weight of original KS7 design, optional, fast to deploy, good enough accuracy, costs about $10 (+BUIS).
![Air gun Trigger Wood Typewriter Shotgun]()
![Font Gas Personal protective equipment Electric blue Shadow]()
I made this by starting with a cheap aluminum M-LOK to Picatinny adapter (5 rails). Filed off the underside lugs. Filed a curved countour to match the curvature of the KS7 handle rear. Filed to correct height. Fix to handle using strong super glue. This has held up so far (wear eye protection) - but could be mounted with tapping and bolts for more permanence?
Maybe a specialized 3D printed part might be able to clip into place?
I wanted better off-the-rack accuracy without altering the form factor of the KS7 ...
I added a short (5 rail) picatinny to the rear section of the handle. This was to allow the (optional) addition of a standard rear backup iron sight (flip up). These can be aligned with the fibre optic green arrow upfront in the handle, and is faster to get a sight picture than using the handle tube alone (and has windage adjustment). Not needed for transport or at very close range, flip them down. For 25 yards use the large aperture. For 50 yards+ use the small aperture. Advantages are: does not interfere with shape, form or weight of original KS7 design, optional, fast to deploy, good enough accuracy, costs about $10 (+BUIS).
I made this by starting with a cheap aluminum M-LOK to Picatinny adapter (5 rails). Filed off the underside lugs. Filed a curved countour to match the curvature of the KS7 handle rear. Filed to correct height. Fix to handle using strong super glue. This has held up so far (wear eye protection) - but could be mounted with tapping and bolts for more permanence?
Maybe a specialized 3D printed part might be able to clip into place?
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635 Posts
AHA, a unique and innovative fix. I actually like this better then a mount on the carry handle portion.
I'll have to do some thinking on this.
I'll have to do some thinking on this.
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82 Posts
Nice pics.
By "This has held up so far (wear eye protection)", I assume that means you have shot it? It is a bit close to cheek weld area but based on my experience, just clear (maybe don't where a baseball hat?).
There isn't a whole lot of room under the handle where it tucks in at rear. There is a center line reinforcement rib underneath so would have to cut that out or maybe screws on either side of rib (rear at bottom of pic). I wonder if a "made for Mossberg/Remington" rail would work since they have curved bottom??? Most I see are a bit long but maybe easier to cut to length rather than alter bottom?!?
![Tool Nickel Gas Bicycle part Household hardware]()
I personally do not plan on shooting beyond 25 yds so windage not important for me, but those slugging it out to 50+ yds could like that. An incorporated rail back there fits the "improved" bit as another option for folks.
By "This has held up so far (wear eye protection)", I assume that means you have shot it? It is a bit close to cheek weld area but based on my experience, just clear (maybe don't where a baseball hat?).
There isn't a whole lot of room under the handle where it tucks in at rear. There is a center line reinforcement rib underneath so would have to cut that out or maybe screws on either side of rib (rear at bottom of pic). I wonder if a "made for Mossberg/Remington" rail would work since they have curved bottom??? Most I see are a bit long but maybe easier to cut to length rather than alter bottom?!?
I personally do not plan on shooting beyond 25 yds so windage not important for me, but those slugging it out to 50+ yds could like that. An incorporated rail back there fits the "improved" bit as another option for folks.
@Charlie Bravo I went for some destructive testing today, the adhesive bond held for mini slugs and target loads, but broke off on the second full size slug. Not unsurprising, and the slug still hit the bull. Impressed how accurate KS7 is if the trigger is teased.
Next I will detach the handle and review removing part of the rib for a drilled mount - unlikely enough room for a nut so unsure if this would provide viable support. This concept may end up being relegated to a wishlist idea for KS7 gen 2!
FYI I first tried a Weaver base (for Bar) that already had a curved bottom. Too low (and not Picatinny), but the curve was good. So yes there may be shortcuts that can avoid filing if the mount issue can be solved.
@dfariswheel thanks, implementation expertise welcomed!
Next I will detach the handle and review removing part of the rib for a drilled mount - unlikely enough room for a nut so unsure if this would provide viable support. This concept may end up being relegated to a wishlist idea for KS7 gen 2!
FYI I first tried a Weaver base (for Bar) that already had a curved bottom. Too low (and not Picatinny), but the curve was good. So yes there may be shortcuts that can avoid filing if the mount issue can be solved.
@dfariswheel thanks, implementation expertise welcomed!
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-Bonus pump strap adaptation I'd light to employ.
-QD slot lower and as clear the pump action as possible
-QD slot lower and as clear the pump action as possible
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82 Posts
Pump strap would have to be mounted not to interfere with pump motion. Pump moves fully aft against pump release switch as mentioned earlier eliminating any outside the flare mount.
That means strap has to attach on or in inside of rear hand guard flare which might be problematic. There isn’t enough material on the tip of aft flare. If you screw strap inside of flare, the screws can’t be too long and/or bolt nuts on outside of flare could prevent pump from cycling fully aft. Also some expressed concern for screw heads rubbing your skin while cycling pump. I’m sure there is a way to mitigate that (grip tape over screws?).
I have a “made for M500/M590” strap I was researching how to install; but honestly, after several range trips, I’m not overly concerned about hand slipping off. The front/aft flare outs + grip tape on pump do a good job of keeping hand on pump.
By lower QD slot, do you want it on the handle but below the 3 slots on handle? Not sure what lower and clear pump means other than not using the existing MLok slots. I settled for installing QD socket inside the handle grab area. That is about as low as you can get but not as far forward as I would like. I’m prefer 2 pt sling application so the takedown pin
single pt sling not for me.
Would you want an adapter that provides a new Mlok slot lower than 3 slots in handle? I am thinking a square plate with 2 MLok slots stacked on top each other.
-Top slot mounts to slot in handle
-Lower slot for QD socket?
-Maybe the plate angles out away from handle a little for extra clearance?
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