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It would be possible to attach sling mounts on the handle in the following areas shown by the arrows.
Installing a mount on the front-underside of the handle could probably be done with a mounting plate bolted through the handle at the front arrow.

It should be possible to install a mount by drilling another hole through the handle in front or to the rear of the bolt that attaches the handle to the barrel.

Lowering the handle for a lower sight mount isn't going to be doable. Raising the handle could possibly be done with spacer blocks.

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If I am understanding your strap picture correctly from post #7, you ABSOLUTELY do NOT want any screw heads on the front part of the pump handle, especially rearward-facing on the front "hilt" portion. It will give you a bloody index finger before you get through the first tube of full-power buckshot or slugs. The small gap between the two halves of the pump handle was enough to shave off all the skin on mine in less than 50 rounds. ANY solution you come up with needs to be smooth in that area near the front of the pump handle if your finger does or can touch it during firing and recoil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
@Gliderguy that is a good point. Yes I’m trying to minimize any bumps inside the handle. I had thoughts about rubber talon grip tape across that gap. It may be possible to tape over any screws if inside hand area. But I’ll now look to put screws outside of hand area.

@dfariswheel I looped sling inside handle in front of mount screw just left of your right most arrow and down through gap between barrel & handle. Sling works very well there. Basically a test to see if sling would work better or worse than existing MLok slots. Biggest takeaway: I’ll never settle for top slots. Down at bottom of handle keeps sling well out of view while aiming. Now to figure a way to put a QD mount down there. That area in front of screw has a lot of space between plastic and barrel.
 

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There's a number of sling mounts that could be bolted to the bottom of the handle in that area.
One would be a simple mount eyelet bolt with a hole for a swivel to lock to .
Use the fine thread part and cut to length.........


Other possible options............



One way to prevent hand pain would be to reverse the ends of the strap. That would put the nylon between your hand and the bolts.
I'd do better to picture this, but I'm short of time right now.
Basically, you put the strap up against the handle and bring the ends down to bolt in place.
Then pull the strap down to open the loop, and the nylon will cover the screw heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The 2 mounts I am contemplating are Noveske and Impact Weapons flush mounts, both rotation limiting which I prefer.

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Designed for hollow stocks, they secure from inside (underneath in KS7's case). They could go anywhere on the handle as long as there is backside access. To try to keep sling away from pump action, the 2 arrows below are prime locations I am looking at. @dfariswheel, your right arrow doesn't have much clearance between handle and barrel, but I will look at it when I remove handle. Of course, this means drilling into handle which is mostly a one way endeavor. I suppose if it doesn't work, I will just have a 1/2" hole in handle or at worse, $50 to buy new handle .... or $40 and go the rail direction. (Blasphemy!!) Funny handle costs more, goes a way to prove just how expensive it is to create it.

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Before you drill half-inch holes in your gun, why don't you give this a try:


Since it's for the KSG it's the right diameter, just a little too long. Nothing that a neoprene washer won't resolve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Before you drill half-inch holes in your gun, why don't you give this a try:


Since it's for the KSG it's the right diameter, just a little too long. Nothing that a neoprene washer won't resolve.
That take down pin location isn’t quite where I am trying to add sling attachment point. Unless you are thinking of drilling it somewhere into handle? But to use that at the pin location and use buttstock slot for other attachments would create a pseudo single point sling that I am not fond of. But I will attempt to rig a temp sling attached there to evaluate that option. But I am not doing 1pt sling.

I appreciate the idea though.

My goal is to add a mount as flush as possible. That KSG socket and others that could be mounted onto handle would stick out and I think that could make it fussy to insert/detach sling swivel inside of grab area of handle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I understood you, sir. My "pseudo single point" comment meant a 2 pt sling attached so close to each other might create a loop similar to a single point sling functionally. My worry would be if the sliding feature works as desired on a 2 pt sling that wraps around torso so much. I said I'd try out that configuration to see if I like it. Just haven't had time with games on TV.

I already have 2 mlok QD adapters; one on butt stock like your pic and one on rear slot on top of handle. While I do not mind that geometry, I do mind the sling being up in aimpoint view which of course is why all this is being discussed. I had QD adapter on aft slot of pump but, like many others, thought that a sling on a moving part as important as pump was not a good idea.

Is that a pin QD a rotation restricted mount? I prefer the swivel to be locked down to prevent sling twist.
 

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"Is that a pin QD a rotation restricted mount?"

I give it a 99.99% probability that the pin itself rotates, so it doesn't matter whether it's a rotation restricted mount or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
OK so I experimented with different locations for front mount of 2 pt sling.
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This did not work for me. This functions very much like a 1 pt sling in that the front end dangles and I could not cinched shotgun tight to body, it hangs too low for me, and the takedown pin location creates a hotspot on my stomach as it pressed against body. I did think about reversing the pin so the QD socket is mounted on far side and snake sling through handle - that might help the dangling part. This (as depicted) very well may work for others, but not me. I thank you for that suggestion though.

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1st: I had sling on pump and thought the geometry was great. Sling angled away from gun well and gun could be cinched tight. But, along with others, I didn't like idea of sling messing with pump action. I dry cycled it a lot and didn't really have any issues but sling can tug ever so slightly.

2nd: I moved it up on handle as depicted below. Geometry is good and it eliminated the sling-on-pump issue, but it puts all that hardware into Field of View while aiming (I have lowered the WML so that is not in FOV anymore).

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3rd: This led me to wanting a location on the handle but lower than available MLOK slots. The only spot that affords enough area to due this seems to be in the hand grab area of handle. Below is where I believe is best. Could go aft of screw put that gets too close to takedown pin concept and might yield less barrel control. I also thought about using the existing top hole with the QD mount inside the grab area, but I am reserving that for potential AR handle rail for Red Dot.

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So as I ponder "drilling into my gun" which is more "drilling into a plastic attachment" on gun, anyone have a uninstalled handle they'd like to sell on the cheap? I don't think I will need it, but it doesn't hurt to ask as a back up.
 

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Obtaining a spare handle for experimentation would be a very smart move.
Hopefully someone here will provide you with a take-off, and then you can experiment however you like.

I do think a sling mount in that area just might be the winner in the sling wars.
I didn't like the sling attached to the pump handle because of interference with the operation.
I'm ambivalent about the mount on the factory M-Loc slots on the carry handle, it just seems to be rather in my way.

I' thinking a mount on the carry handle where you're looking might be the best of all options for a number of reasons......
I won't interfere with the pump handle, won't be up on the carry handle where I feel like it's in the way, and unlike the disassembly pin mounts, it won't interfere with quick field stripping.

One option I might look at is the BCM low mount.
For this I'd just drill two holes in the handle and use nuts and washers inside......


Or..........

There's almost unlimited options available for this, but I'd want as low a profile as I could get to prevent the swivel from sticking out too far.

Please keep us informed on how all this plays out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
DONE!

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picked the spot just in front of screw. 3 circles (mount is on top of center circle) mark the spot. 2 baffles are going to need attention. Arrows below show where those baffles are on top. So, middle circle above is between arrows.

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IWC kit $14 delivered. 2 different length set screws. https://youtu.be/Bbtq-aoyKRU if you want to see someone install it on a shotgun or rifle.
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1/2" hole looks bad now, but will be filled nicely by mount.
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Sticking mount into tunnel underneath. Those baffles had to be carved out. I left just a bit of baffle between mount and top of tunnel to keep topside more flush.
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Hole filled. If I had removed all the baffles, then mount would stick out more.
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sling inserted
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Good To Go! Sturdy. Ambidextrous. Gets sling out of way when aiming... I like it.
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Looking back:
-could insert mount aft of screw but I think forward is more stable when hands-off.
-Noveske mount (mentioned in earlier post) just as viable but cheapiest I found that was $25
-right tools and this is a simple install. Not the right tools: then it is a lot of dremel sanding. Handle plastic will "smelt" when dremel sanding due to heat. I don't have a 1/2" drill bit so I used 3/8" and dremel'd it out to 1/2". The drilling was 30 seconds, dremel another 15 minutes. I almost ran to store and bought a 1/2" bit but I didn't think my drill would accept it. I guess there is a reason all my bit sets stop at 3/8"???

I enjoyed the process and am happy with the results.
 

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DONE!

View attachment 56868

picked the spot just in front of screw. 3 circles (mount is on top of center circle) mark the spot. 2 baffles are going to need attention. Arrows below show where those baffles are on top. So, middle circle above is between arrows.

View attachment 56866

IWC kit $14 delivered. 2 different length set screws. https://youtu.be/Bbtq-aoyKRU if you want to see someone install it on a shotgun or rifle.
View attachment 56867

1/2" hole looks bad now, but will be filled nicely by mount.
View attachment 56869

Sticking mount into tunnel underneath. Those baffles had to be carved out. I left just a bit of baffle between mount and top of tunnel to keep topside more flush.
View attachment 56870

Hole filled. If I had removed all the baffles, then mount would stick out more.
View attachment 56871

sling inserted
View attachment 56872

Good To Go! Sturdy. Ambidextrous. Gets sling out of way when aiming... I like it.
View attachment 56873

Looking back:
-could insert mount aft of screw but I think forward is more stable when hands-off.
-Noveske mount (mentioned in earlier post) just as viable but cheapiest I found that was $25
-right tools and this is a simple install. Not the right tools: then it is a lot of dremel sanding. Handle plastic will "smelt" when dremel sanding due to heat. I don't have a 1/2" drill bit so I used 3/8" and dremel'd it out to 1/2". The drilling was 30 seconds, dremel another 15 minutes. I almost ran to store and bought a 1/2" bit but I didn't think my drill would accept it. I guess there is a reason all my bit sets stop at 3/8"???

I enjoyed the process and am happy with the results.
This is a great solution. Thanks for sharing, my parts are on order!
 

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great ideas. reminds me I need to get my ks7 out to the range fir some exercise. off topic but bass pro had winchester 12ga 1oz slugs from 4.99 for 5. 1600fps. I am almost afraid to light one off in the ks7!
 

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Speak for yourself. :)
One shot with one of those and my bad shoulder would abandon ship.
Pretty funny, sir!
Actually, quite a number of on-line reviews, both written and video, mention that the KS7 is not well suited for launching slugs. I think that this might be due to the offset between the factory sights and the barrel. This could be remedied with the rail/red dot solution, but for self and home defense I question whether many would choose slugs anyway. My sense is that the KS7 is ideally suited as a defensive buckshot launcher.
 

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Offset might be AN issue, but for me the light weight verses slug recoil is the issue.

The AR-15 has the same offset possible close range problem.
Notice how SWAT teams will turn an AR on the side when aiming at very close range.
They're actually pointing the rifle not aiming using the sights.

I agree, the KS7 is best as a close range defense shotgun with buckshot. Use the right tool for the job.
 
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