I’m not able to replicate what you described. Mine does not have any stage or sticking place before the break, and no matter how close to the break I attempt to get it it always returns to its normal place.
KS7 trigger hang.
I just noticed at this late date, that my KS7 will exhibit trigger hang.....if I VERY slowly pull the trigger it will creep back, and stick in a partially pulled position if I stop the trigger pull.
This isn't necessarily a safety issue since you don't normally do a target shooters squeeze with a shotgun, but it kind of bugs me.
Anyone else see this?
This isn't necessarily a safety issue since you don't normally do a target shooters squeeze with a shotgun, but it kind of bugs me.
Anyone else see this?
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Nope, my KS7 won't do that, either. In fact, it has an astoundingly crisp trigger with no noticeable take-up.
Hummmmm..... I hesitate to start stoning the sear because the KS7 has a rather odd design with the sliding sear block and tilting sear.
It operates safely with a normal shotgun trigger pull, and the trigger feels nice.
Work on it or leave it?????
It operates safely with a normal shotgun trigger pull, and the trigger feels nice.
Work on it or leave it?????
I think that a close inspection of all of the parts involved should be your guide. If you are not able to identify any anomalies, then what are you going to fix?
Fixed it.
I'm a retired watchmaker/gunsmith so I stoned the angle on the sear to a slightly different angle.
That seems to have corrected it.
When set up correctly a sear should slide back into full engagement if the trigger is released after a partial pull.
This is all about having a correct angle on the parts so the angle will force the sear to slide back into full engagement.
When wrong, you get "trigger hang" or a unsafely light trigger.
The old gag of stoning a part strictly by eye is seldom a good solution. Even for a pro, getting and keeping the surface perfect in all directions is verging on impossible. I've seen a few old timers who could do a near-perfect job on a jewelers graver by hand, and I learned how to do it in watchmakers school, but it ain't easy.
Soon as you've "learned it" you get smart and buy a jig to take the human element out of it.
One trick for stoning sears when you don't have an actual stoning jig, is to use a small vise with precision smooth top jaws.
Put the part in and position the surface above the jaw by a tiny bit, then tip the part in the vise to set the angle.
Tighten the vise, put a smooth piece of drill rod on the other end of the jaws to act as a roller, rest the stone on the area to be stoned and the roller and just slide it back and forth.
Done carefully this works well, and did this time too, certainly better then squinting at the part while using a stone by hand.
Having some serious watchmakers magnification and a good bench light helps. Can't fix what you can't see.
I'm a retired watchmaker/gunsmith so I stoned the angle on the sear to a slightly different angle.
That seems to have corrected it.
When set up correctly a sear should slide back into full engagement if the trigger is released after a partial pull.
This is all about having a correct angle on the parts so the angle will force the sear to slide back into full engagement.
When wrong, you get "trigger hang" or a unsafely light trigger.
The old gag of stoning a part strictly by eye is seldom a good solution. Even for a pro, getting and keeping the surface perfect in all directions is verging on impossible. I've seen a few old timers who could do a near-perfect job on a jewelers graver by hand, and I learned how to do it in watchmakers school, but it ain't easy.
Soon as you've "learned it" you get smart and buy a jig to take the human element out of it.
One trick for stoning sears when you don't have an actual stoning jig, is to use a small vise with precision smooth top jaws.
Put the part in and position the surface above the jaw by a tiny bit, then tip the part in the vise to set the angle.
Tighten the vise, put a smooth piece of drill rod on the other end of the jaws to act as a roller, rest the stone on the area to be stoned and the roller and just slide it back and forth.
Done carefully this works well, and did this time too, certainly better then squinting at the part while using a stone by hand.
Having some serious watchmakers magnification and a good bench light helps. Can't fix what you can't see.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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