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I just wanted to report that I got my previously "blued" slide and 2 mags back yesterday from Jack Fuselier. They are now a beautiful satin nickel finish, Jack did just an exceptional job on the plating, I am extremely pleased. My little friend looks so good now, I hate to take her to the range and get her all dirty. Sorry no pics yet, but you all know what she looks like - Black frame, nickel slide and mags.
 

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I have a blued slide also and I pocket carry 24-7. I have noticed that from the humid weather and sweating at work, my slide is developing a few small rust spots. I am going to send it to get Jacked soon along with my PF-9. Does anyone know if Jack sand-blasts to remove rust spots or do we need to prep the slide first? 2PP, Wilson?
Thanks for the help.

Dave
 

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I will electroplate with hard nickel any KTOGers P11/P40/P32/P3AT or Grendel slide. This is primarily a rust control measure but it does result in a pleasing appearance. I sandblast lightly to a matte finish and plate. The finished look is a clear non-reflecting silver gold. This is what I recommend for CC. Cost is $25 for blue guns and $30 for Parkerized guns. I polish the slide rails and the hammer interface. This reduces hammer friction and rail wear on the frame. Magazine tube plating when included with slide plating is $7.50 for each magazine tube, or $10 individually.

http://www.gunsmith.fuselier.com/slideoffer.html
 

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It'd be hard to be without my P3AT for long enough to send the slide in...but the examples on his site do look nice. But the blued slide looks good with the OD grip, so maybe I'll just get some mileage out of the factory finish first.

Does KT have any sort of warranty or service on its metal finishes? Like, if a KT develops rust, could you send it back in for refinishing? Kind of a long shot I know since it isn't necessarily a manufacturing defect, I'm just curious.
 

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I believe their unofficial policy os to "warrant" the finish for a very short period, perhaps a couple of weeks. Usually, their blueing is decent enough. They seem to have improved their process too. Within the past year, we saw a change to a deeper and better looking blueing than the earlier guns had.
 

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Thanks for the info TxCajun. I think I may wait until cooler weather so I can tote a larger pistol. I can't imagine being without my P3AT... amazing how fast you get to love having them in your pocket. They sure grow on you.
 

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CC_Dave said:
Thanks for the info TxCajun. I think I may wait until cooler weather so I can tote a larger pistol. I can't imagine being without my P3AT... amazing how fast you get to love having them in your pocket. They sure grow on you.
  That's why you can never have too many P3ATs. You've got to have at least two.

Packer.]
 

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CC_Dave said:
Does anyone know if Jack sand-blasts to remove rust spots or do we need to prep the slide first?
Sand blasting won’t remove a rust pit. Point out the rust spots to Jack and pay the few extra $$ to have him remove them. If they are not removed prior to plating, they will stand out like a sore thumb on the nickel finish.

Wilson – who’s a full disclosure kinda guy ;)
 

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A while back, tired of my boringly reliable blued 1G P3AT, I sent the slide to Jack for his $25 nickel-plating. He does absolutely beautiful work. I couldn't be more happy, or recommend Jack more strongly. Just do it. Jack is a perfectionist, and if there is any rust he'll take care of it, probably without even asking. Oh yeah, and maybe I'm crazy, but since I've got the gun back, it is shooting more accurately. Hmm. Best, the long-lost DT Willy.
 

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DT_Willy said:
 Hmm.  Best, the long-lost DT Willy.
Ahh... so there you are. :)
 

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Here's my usual advice on sending a slide to Jack:

- Follow his instructions on his website carefully, including enclosing an itemized list of what you send him.

- Send your assembly pin, he'll do that too. On 1G P-32s and 1G P-3ATs, send the recoil spring catch as well.

- He doesn't do barrels as nickel plating doesn't work well on them but if you send it, he will polish it so it looks nice.

- Turnaround time can vary. When he's busy, it can take several weeks. When he's not, it can be very quick.

Jack has done 4 of my 5 KTs. They all look great and the finish has held up very well.
 

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Jack indeed does beautiful work...and at a great price!

Several months ago I sent him my entire gun: slide, belt clip, and mag(s) plate job. Full Fluff & Buff...everything.

Since that time I've never had a FTF, jam, or any problems...regardless of ammo used.
 
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Jack did my P3AT about a year ago- great job, and at that time turn-around was about 10 days. Since then time it's ridden in my pocket (in a DeSantis Nemisis) every day. The finish has held up well. Another happy customer.
 

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nicneufeld said:
It'd be hard to be without my P3AT for long enough to send the slide in
That's why you have to dig deep and buy a second P3. At least my local FFL didn't upcharge me for using a credit card.

BTW - I'm also very happy with the results. It just looks too nice for me to carry every day. But since it's dry in CO I don't need to worry much about rust. So I just keep carrying my old parked P3. It's sure nice to have a backup if I need to send it home for reapairs though.
 
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