Community for Kel-Tec Shooters banner
1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, here we are. Under, or within the first 100 rounds. The XM855 ran well and the XM 193 up until 25-30 rounds. An occasional FTE, some jamming that cleared.
But then this happens, the bolt jams at the rear. Yea. As in above the hammer. As if the hammer had jammed the bolt back.
Whatever it is, the charge lever can't free it. There's no more rear travel. The bolt is all the way back and not budging.

What do y'all think? Pack her up and send her back to wence she came?

Sure i could get to the bottom of this, but im thinking i would deny KT the opportunity to address a real field issue.

Perhaps I needs to get back to that AR build I dropped in favor of this platform. I've just been waiting for the right gas block to come along. 14.5" P&W light BBL adjustable mid gas, LAW folder. That is a 24" package folded. No problems. No breaks. No worries.
I think see the light :eek:ops!:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
32,246 Posts
I don't own one but it seems too complex a machine to me for much user assessment/repair. I would send it back for sure. They typically give guns sent in for service a more thorough going over than the average one off the line gets, and of course they are test fired during the process and given some TLC.
 
  • Like
Reactions: haugrdr

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Hey iamscottasus,

Does it jam in the same spot that mine did - about 1/2 inch left to go until it's all the way back? Mine would eject and get stuck there. Took a very hard pull/wack on the charging handle to get it back the last little bit. Then it would run smoothly by hand again...

I noticed the plastic furniture is screwed to the "rails" that the bolt travels on in the receiver. On mine one of the screws sticks out/into the bolt travel area just a little bit. It doesn't get caught during hand cycling, but I wonder if that could be what's hanging the bolt up...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey iamscottasus,

Does it jam in the same spot that mine did - about 1/2 inch left to go until it's all the way back? Mine would eject and get stuck there. Took a very hard pull/wack on the charging handle to get it back the last little bit. Then it would run smoothly by hand again...

I noticed the plastic furniture is screwed to the "rails" that the bolt travels on in the receiver. On mine one of the screws sticks out/into the bolt travel area just a little bit. It doesn't get caught during hand cycling, but I wonder if that could be what's hanging the bolt up...
I had already checked my cheek pad screws for protrusions that would interfere with the bolt but didn't find any. I don't know if the bolt has any more rear travel. Im not going to use any force on it with the charge handle. My impression of that handle is it may not take too much force on it. I could with a rod down the barrel or a lever in the eject well.
It almost appears as if the hammer is lodged between the bolt and the carrier.
I can get a picture up here later.
Either way, this failure cannot happen in the field. I would drop the RDB and transition to another weapon, which I have done.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok. I should have noticed it at the range, but its obvious. The piston broke free from its weld in the action spring tube.
I thought this was fixed :wall:
Auto part Screw
Tire Auto part Metal
 
  • Like
Reactions: 850sub

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, many folks don't have the issue. KT is offering to sell me the part. I don't like sending FAs off if I can help it. I think Ill take the offer. Besides some of the other niggles typical of the breed, I am blessed with decent accuracy and clean brass. So I don't see why I should bail yet.
If I still have jams ill seek a refund. I don't want to do that to the dealer unless I have to.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You should have an AR or AK anyway.
Always have a reliable rifle.
Everything else are toys.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mov
Currently do. Unfortunately my POU was flawed when I built it.

It's heavy as all [email protected]$k.

Currently trying to sell it to fund moving my family.

Course, I won't get half what I put in it now. :eek:ops!:
POU? Personally Owned Unicorn?
PM me what you're lettin loose.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,101 Posts
POU = Philosophy Of Use. You can always spot the guys who watch the nutnfancy YouTube videos. :D


PS - I have a TSU... Time Share Unicorn. There are tax advantages over leasing a unicorn for my personal use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
My FAL is my go-to weapon of never failing, but I was hoping this would be a good go-to for .223.

Did they offer any reasons that you got a bad part and an assurance the replacement part would be more robust?

It seems like they're not properly heat treating their parts or using bad steel...? Thought they were done with this kind of stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
If your go-to .223 isn't an AR, boy your head ain't right.

Decades of proven reliability, parts commonality, availability, etc. and you pick the goofy space gat from Kel-Tec of all things!?

Don't get me wrong, I love my RDB, but not a chance in hell it comes any where near to being my "go-to." Not yet anyway.

It's still very early tech, from a company known for QC issues (though things do seem to be improving) with zero aftermarket and only a few thousand examples even out there in the wild.

-

Anyway, on to the topic. I had this exact same thing happen to mine early on (first 60 rounds). This is the first I've seen anyone else report the same issue in a while (it looked like they had early QC issues that later rifles did not experience). My serial is Z06**

In my case they had completely missed the weld that holds that inner collar in place. So clearly a QC issue. Can't speak to iamscottasus' particular case, but either a missed weld or a weak/improperly executed weld, I would imagine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
I can't believe they're going to charge you $50 bucks. How long have you owned your rifle? Is it not under warranty???

It would seem more appropriate for you to ship them the part then they ship you a replacement FREE.

That doesn't help people feel good about ordering a KelTec. I'm glad I got one at dealer cost. Need to look at the serial number and construction more closely on the internals...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Also find them charging you weird. Are you simply ordering a replacement vs. sending it in for repair/replacement?

They repaired mine, with the same issue, for free (had to send it in, turn around was a very fast 1 week though).

I've also got countless other parts from them for free, by simply asking nicely. Spare firing pins, spare extractor axis pins, replacement bolt (new style vs. the original, even though I never had any issues, I just wanted the updated part). I might be missing something, but yeah, all free.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top