[4ster]

I have a the newer version of the Gen2 where the sight body does not have a set screw contacting the barrel. On mine there are 3 components: A thread protecting nut on the barrel, then a larger lock nut and then the sightbody. I assume that Kel-Tec has also used Loc-Tite on the lock nut and sight body as well.

My sight body is off bore axis enough that the front sight is nearly at the extreme right of adjustment. I would like to move the sight body so that it is lined up with the bore axis. How big a job is that, and how do you do it without damaging the barrel threads or the front sight?

Picture of the gun folded, sight on bore axis, sight body offset.

 

[TommyG]

I installed the newer version on my Gen 2 9mm. This was a replacement for the one that didn't have a jam nut. The old front sight just unscrewed after set screw was backed out. It also had a dab of blue locktite . A little tight but got easier as it unscrewed. Installed new sight with small amount of blue locktite, set jamnut and went to range. Sight and nut cane loose after about 100 rounds. Reset front sight with a little more locktite and let set for 24 hours and retested. So far so good, even suppressed. You should be able to back off nut and move sight to were you want it. If it moves freely I would remove sight, clean treads and use blue locktite. wait at least 24 hours for it to set. I had to replace front sight to use a suppressor. Using old front sight with suppressor moved pattern 8 inches to right and 6 inches down of bulleye. Called Keltec told them of problem and they sent me new style front sight. trouble corrected.

 

[MarkCO]

If you back off the nut, you should be able to rotate the body. I have replaced the original Gen2 blocks on 2 different ones so far. I just aligned, used a laser to bore sight and locked them down with jam nuts. So far, they have not moved after about 500 rounds through each.

 

[4ster]

So, do you wrap the barrel in a towel and put it in a vice with rubber pads? Or is there a better method to secure the barrel so the lock nut can be loosened and the sight front moved?

I don't want to bubba up an unmarred rifle.

 

[MarkCO]

I applied no torque to the barrel. Used rubber jaws on the sight block to tighten nut against it, then the last nut against the intermediate.

 

[4ster]

An update:

While the newest design solves some major problems of the previous design of the Gen 2 front sight body, it introduces another: Getting the lock nut tight enough to stay put and the front sight body aligned is a PITA. There is no index point so its difficult to get the sight body exactly vertical on the barrel. And it drives me nuts to have the front sight canted way off center.

After several attempts to get the front sight into proper alignment I think I finally got it. Sometimes frustration works!

Here is how it worked out:

On the last attempt I ended up with the lock nut tight but the sight body canted slightly to the left. Holding the fore end in my left hand, I used a stout wooden dowel to apply calibrated force to the left side of the sight body (i.e., I smacked it, using the dowel as a hammer). This kept the lock nut tight and nudged the sight body a little right. It took a few increasingly forceful but calibrated smacks but in the end it moved into proper position. I can see no mark on the side of the sight body from the dowel.

Note this "method" only will work if the sight is canted slightly left since smacking on the right side will tend to move the sight body away from the lock nut, loosening it.

I'm sure any gunsmith reading this is doing a face palm right now. Oh well, it worked.

 

[MarkCO]

I would not call that introducing another, just a different way.

But the biggest problem (windage adjustment frailty) was not solved.