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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 3AT started to have light strikes so I decided to tear it apart and have a look. All the parts seem to be fine and I now have to put it back together. Does anyone have a simple way to put the Hammer block and spring back into the frame. This looks like I could fool with this for hours, so I thought I would ask. I am certain you guys have found an easier way to do it than it looks.

Thanks

Tim
 

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timothius said:
I am certain you guys have found an easier way to do it than it looks.
I’ve dissembled and reassembled many P-3ATs but only once have I reinstalled a hammer block. The words “it ain’t worth it come to mind”. Call Kel-Tec and order a new grip with the internals already installed. Order it in a different color, gray is nice. Then just tell everyone you changed grips because you wanted a different color :)

However, if you are like these women who want to experience natural childbirth, go to http://www.geocities.com/pocketguns/P32grip.html which is a P-32 but the process is the same.

Wilson - who’s glad he has an extra grip w/internals in his parts box :)
 

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I haven't tried it, but this sounds like a "slave pin" might work here.

A "slave pin" is just a shorter pin that holds the parts together while you put the real pin in.
It needs to be short enough to fit down inside the frame while it is assembled.

To use, assemble the spring & hammer block with the slave pin holding them together. Now, put the assembly in place inside the frame and push out the slave pin with the real pin.

You can make one out of a wooden dowel rod, or almost anything else that is the right diameter.

Let us know if it works out for you.


rcmodel
 

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timothius said:
My 3AT started to have light strikes so I decided to tear it apart and have a look.
Light strikes with a P-3AT that has previously functioned fine is usually debris in the firing pin channel or a weak hammer spring. Clean the firing pin channel then polish and lightly oil the firing pin to see if that helps. You might as well request a new hammer spring from the Service Dept at Kel-Tec 800-515-9983 because if the old one was weak, it will be weaker now that it was stretched removing the grip.

P-3ATs are a fun guns for tinkering but it’s always best to have at least two of them. That way you don’t have to reassemble it until you are through playing ;D

Wilson – who’s up to page 9 in his ACME Gunsmithing workbook
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey This was easier than it looked. I inserted the pin just enough to place the hammer block in position then I used needle nose to place the spring into the block. I then use my finger to align the spring and then pushed the pin through the grip. took all of 30 seconds or so. Thanks for your help and the hammer is now falling as it should. I wonder what cause the hammer block to start goofing up. Any ideas?

I fired 3 shots today and then it started having light strikes. The hammer would move but it wasn't hitting the primer hard. So I took it home and tore it apart. I put it back together, and it appears to be functioning just fine. Go figure???

Tim
 

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Please make sure you fully release the trigger between shots. You must actually touch the back of your finger to the trigger guard.

Some pistols, like Glocks will allow you to short stroke the trigger, but this is not one of them.

If you don't release the trigger fully, the hammer will fall too soon without enough force to fire the primer. This is not the fault of the gun, but of the shooter.

Packer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have many rounds through the gun so I don't think that it was trigger technique. The hammer would move and fall but not the normal way, nor did the trigger seem as heavy. Since I pulled it apart and cleaned it I believe it helped. I am inclined to believe it was debris as I carry it in my pocket and the 3AT gets filled with lint. At least that's what I hope it was.

Great little gun, but they can be persnickity. It is too bad it decided to act up when it did becasue I was showing it to a friend and none wants a FTF when showing their gun off.

Tim
 

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timothius said:
Hey This was easier than it looked. I inserted the pin just enough to place the hammer block in position then I used needle nose to place the spring into the block. I then use my finger to align the spring and then pushed the pin through the grip. took all of 30 seconds or so.
I think I still have a couple of grips without hammer blocks installed. What’s the going rate for installing hammer blocks in them with those nimble fingers ;D

Wilson – who’s limiting his tinkering to task requiring less dexterity :)
 

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Wilson said:
I think I still have a couple of grips without hammer blocks installed. What’s the going rate for installing hammer blocks in them with those nimble fingers  ;D
I think it goes something like this:

Dear Momma, I have received these grips that you sent me but I think they are defective as they do not have the hammber block assembly installed in them. I am returning them to you for replacement with those that do have the hammerblock assembly installed correctly. Thank you very much. Signed YOUR VERY BEST CUSTOMER, Wilson.
 

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Catus, I bet you are thinking of the hammer SPRING, as that link does not include the hammer BLOCK nor the mag catch. :-/
 

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cactus_jack said:
I have used YZ's method that can be found here and find it's easy and work's just fine.
Those are exactly the directions I used. They "fail" to tell you to dry fire (or release the hammer into your finger letting it fall slowly) to release the tension on the hammer block before you go to disconnect it.

-Scott
 

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cactus_jack said:
]Sure it does! You need to scroll down to it.

Here is a picture from the page showing how to align it as you slide the frame down into the grip.


That particular piece is just about reinstalling the frame where you have to push the hammer block forward.  I think the poster was talking about the complete R&R of the hammer block which is not covered in Yz's instructions. :-/
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
adamsesq said:
Those are exactly the directions I used. They "fail" to tell you to dry fire (or release the hammer into your finger letting it fall slowly) to release the tension on the hammer block before you go to disconnect it.

-Scott
When I looked at the situation I sorta figured it would be best to take all tension off of the springs.

Tim
 
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