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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After all this time the thing that motivated me to add a P3At to the stable was the wife's P32 going down for a short time. Her firing pin broke off a piece on the end of it so she had to carry her SP101 for a short time while I waited for new parts from KT.

She was mighty glad it only took about 4 days to get the parts and get it up and running again. But just in case it ever happens again, or if my PF9 ever goes down, we now have a P3AT to use in the interim. ;)

I just picked it up today for 250 out the door from one of my FFL's. I was suprised to see a metal guide rod hidden inside instead of the standard plastic one's on our other EDC's? I guess that's why I read some stuff about the guide rod hole's having peening problems when the material isn't thick enough. To be honest I never read much about the P3AT's since I didn't have any yet.

First thing I did was tear it apart and buff it up of course. ;)
Next thing was come here and try to figure out when it was made.
And of course it couldn't be a simple mathmatical problem for me. :-/
Obviously it's a pretty recent build since my serial numbers start with KMV..
But the problem in the equation for me lies in the fact that I have a zero in the serial number????
And as we all know KT doesn't use zero's or O's to keep the confusion down......... Hmmmmmmm????

So lets hear it from those in the know and the tight loop..... What's up with a zero in my serial number?
And NO it's not a Q that I'm not reading correctly! lol
 

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My first thought was, "Didn't he have one of those already?" LOL. So what flavor did you buy? Sounds like you got a great deal on it too. ;) As far as the peening goes, it shouldn't be a problem for you since your gun is pretty new. The metal guide rod is actually needed in the P3AT because the polymer ones can't handle the abuse. Don't get worried if you see flat spots showing up on the big end of the rod where it meets the barrel. These are natural and occur in every P3AT that I know of. Oh, I've heard that a strip of Ape Tape on the back of the grip with a slip on grip over it makes these guns really comfortable. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just a plain jane version... Blued with black grips. And I'm with you torrent.... Why the heck did it take so long to get myself a P3AT? :-/

I kinda figured the peening issue had been addressed by KT by now. But it's good to hear first hand that it's a non issue now.  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

And thanks for the heads up on the flattening of the guide rod end. That saves me from coming in here and asking about it later.  lol  ;)

I figured Ape Tape would be a must for this little monster, seeing as it's basically the same size as the wife's P32 but with a bigger bark. ;)

After seeing my error on the 34 base I can see that mine must have been made within the last month or two. But does anyone know what the number is for a starting point on "K"?
 

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I guess I was wrong.  Just checked, and it is metal.  I could have swore I read they were plastic though.

Just did a little checking, turns out it is the P11 that has the plastic guide rod, and we had one of those for a while, so I must have been thinking about that. Sorry for the mix up.
 

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Sangueffusor said:
They use 0's and 1's, but they don't use O's or I's.

They use letter O's I have a P-3AT Serial #O### Unless they go "letter number letter number number" on their serials
 

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MirageES said:
They use letter O's I have a P-3AT Serial #O### Unless they go "letter number letter number number" on their serials
It's Letter—Number/Letter—Number/Letter—Number—Number. Your second digit is is a zero. My P-3AT, for instance, has a 9 there.
 

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Sangueffusor said:
[quote author=MirageES link=1269057872/0#9 date=1269139087]They use letter O's I have a P-3AT Serial #O### Unless they go "letter number letter number number" on their serials
It's Letter—Number/Letter—Number/Letter—Number—Number. Your second digit is is a zero. My P-3AT, for instance, has a 9 there.[/quote]


Thanks for the info. I didn't know that.


--David
 
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