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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello,
Looking to hydro dip the slide on my P11. I have the slide gutted, with the firing pin and everything i can see removed. There is a finish on the slide that is coming off. I was thinking about sanding the finish off before dipping. from what i can tell, the metal is steel. I was wondering if anyone else has done this on any type of firearm? I think it would be ok as long as i don't dig into the steel underneath. Also, I am a little concerned with submerging the gun in water and not getting all the water out as rust can form etc. maybe just get some air and blow in the holes to make sure all the water is out. Thoughts? i will try to attach some pictures here too. i'm new here, thanks for any advice.
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-Clay
 

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I dunno, use a hair drier to dry it off when done, the oil it?

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 
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@Cburr welcome
You're going in the right direction, you don't want anything inside the slide, tape off the inside, sand the finish off, prime and paint. and make sure you get a little bit of all the edges on the side of the slide prepped and painted too, not much just get over that edge. And you should be good to dip, if you stick a rod in the barrel hole for a grip to dip itll be a bit difficult to dip the front of the slide.

Far as rust goes depends on the inside of the slide, only 1 gun has rusted on me and it was some llama 1911 clone. after the rinse, I usually take the tape out and dry the inside with a towel and air dry with no problems. A hair dryer or air hose should be fine just be careful. dipping softens the paint up, even more so if you over activated the pattern. you'll want to tape the inside again and clear coat it before you oil it again
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Cburr welcome
You're going in the right direction, you don't want anything inside the slide, tape off the inside, sand the finish off, prime and paint. and make sure you get a little bit of all the edges on the side of the slide prepped and painted too, not much just get over that edge. And you should be good to dip, if you stick a rod in the barrel hole for a grip to dip itll be a bit difficult to dip the front of the slide.

Far as rust goes depends on the inside of the slide, only 1 gun has rusted on me and it was some llama 1911 clone. after the rinse, I usually take the tape out and dry the inside with a towel and air dry with no problems. A hair dryer or air hose should be fine just be careful. dipping softens the paint up, even more so if you over activated the pattern. you'll want to tape the inside again and clear coat it before you oil it again
Man, thanks a bunch.. you answered everything I needed to know. Awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also
@Cburr welcome
You're going in the right direction, you don't want anything inside the slide, tape off the inside, sand the finish off, prime and paint. and make sure you get a little bit of all the edges on the side of the slide prepped and painted too, not much just get over that edge. And you should be good to dip, if you stick a rod in the barrel hole for a grip to dip itll be a bit difficult to dip the front of the slide.

Far as rust goes depends on the inside of the slide, only 1 gun has rusted on me and it was some llama 1911 clone. after the rinse, I usually take the tape out and dry the inside with a towel and air dry with no problems. A hair dryer or air hose should be fine just be careful. dipping softens the paint up, even more so if you over activated the pattern. you'll want to tape the inside again and clear coat it before you oil it again
Also, what kind of clear coat you recommend?
 

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When you clean a black powder revolver you wash it with soap & water then bake in the oven hot enough to drive out all the water. I used around 250 - 300. Not hot enough to mess with the steel.

I'd use 000 or 0000 steel wool rather than sand paper. The finish on a P11 is pretty thin.
 
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Also, what kind of clear coat you recommend?
Any flat/matte usually goes good on guns, nobody uses glossy. but now that I think about it it may depend if you have any equipment, if you're starting out I'm guessing you're using aerosol. I dont have any experience with rattle cans and dipping, when we started we kinda jumped in the deep end, got spray guns and built a paintbooth, and bought an 8 ft tank

Not sure if it's against any rules advertising another website but it might be more approriate to look in a hydrographics forum for more information, k2 forums has a lot of people who have been at it longer than I have. The k2 YouTube videos are really informative too.

As for supplies most hydrographics companies that are also suppliers online should work. big brain hydrographics sells good stuff but I'm biased towards them because I took their training class and I'm more familiar with how their stuff works.

Good luck, cant wait to see how the slide turns out
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Any flat/matte usually goes good on guns, nobody uses glossy. but now that I think about it it may depend if you have any equipment, if you're starting out I'm guessing you're using aerosol. I dont have any experience with rattle cans and dipping, when we started we kinda jumped in the deep end, got spray guns and built a paintbooth, and bought an 8 ft tank

Not sure if it's against any rules advertising another website but it might be more approriate to look in a hydrographics forum for more information, k2 forums has a lot of people who have been at it longer than I have. The k2 YouTube videos are really informative too.

As for supplies most hydrographics companies that are also suppliers online should work. big brain hydrographics sells good stuff but I'm biased towards them because I took their training class and I'm more familiar with how their stuff works.

Good luck, cant wait to see how the slide turns out
 

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Alcohol will chase water out of holes/crevices, but not sure what it would do to the primer or hydro dip?
 
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