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Start with the least harmful things and work up...
- water works on some
- rubbing alcohol works on a lot
- ammonia works on a few that didn't work yet
- harmless oils work on a lot too. Remoil or CLP for example.

- physical / chemistry combo .. soak in, scrape off gently (try a plastic scraper, for example). Don't damage the wood. Not quite the last resort, but its one to be careful of.

If none of those work or you didn't want to scrape at it ... let me know?
 

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If rubbing alcohol (water and alcohol blend) doesn't work, try Goo Gone. If you want to try a gentle solvent, use lamp oil (not paraffin based) or common charcoal lighter fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So apply directly on the tape. Let it sit. Will I be able to unravel it? Will it break off in pieces? When the tape is finally off start using goo gone or whatever on the residue? Just want to know what to expect. By the way I have nothing at the moment but sometimes I pass on a firearm because of the tape. I figure if it's not a very big deal to remove I may go for it. Thanks.
 

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Lighter fluid, the kind you put in zippo lighters.
It's also called "naptha". I buy it by the gallon from Lowe's and use it on almost everything from finishing guitar bodies (before and between coats of finish as a cleaner and dust remover) to removing the self adhesive price stickers off a variety of products, including labels from clear plastic containers re-purposed to hold re-loading supplies. It dries very quickly, and I have never had it react with any type of finish. Goo is good for a lot of surfaces, but I don't use it on wood. It can get into the pores and not rinse out easily. It also takes much longer to dry than naptha.

Alcohol, whether ethyl, isopropanol (rubbing), de-natured, or drinking :eek: , isn't necessarily a great solvent for most adhesives, and it can damage some finishes, especially lacquers.
 

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It's also called "naptha". I buy it by the gallon from Lowe's and use it on almost everything from finishing guitar bodies (before and between coats of finish as a cleaner and dust remover) to removing the self adhesive price stickers off a variety of products, including labels from clear plastic containers re-purposed to hold re-loading supplies. It dries very quickly, and I have never had it react with any type of finish. Goo is good for a lot of surfaces, but I don't use it on wood. It can get into the pores and not rinse out easily. It also takes much longer to dry than naptha.



Alcohol, whether ethyl, isopropanol (rubbing), de-natured, or drinking :eek: , isn't necessarily a great solvent for most adhesives, and it can damage some finishes, especially lacquers.



Yep, what he said. Great response!
 

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In my job I have to replace foam seals in a vacuum systems. It is 8x8 in size and mostly all glued surface. I soak it in alcohol to help the glue let go. It works in my application pretty good.
 
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