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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was reading the post about the guy having trouble getting the right hammer from KT for his P3AT. I'd like to change out mine too, and I'm trying to find some earlier links to how to go about ordering and replacing DIY the hammer assembly/block for the P3AT. I can't find prior posts about this. Searched for "light strikes," "hammer assembly," "hammer block repaid." Sorry, just can't locate the earlier stuff. Can someone lead me down the right path?

thanks,

Mark
 
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It's not that hard to change out the hammer block and it costs you nothing. Do a search on disassembly. It's pretty straight forward. You'll need a punch set. Use a block of scrap wood and drill a hole near the edge. Remove the slide. Lay the pistol on it's side and use a proper size punch to drift out the assembly pins in the grip into the hole in the wood. Hold the hammer with a finger and release the hammer with the trigger to relieve some of the tension on the hammer spring. Put a smaller screwdriver from the top down thru the mag opening and push the hammer spring catch down and out of the place where it fits into the bottom of the grip. Don't push it any harder than you have to to get the catch out of the grip. You don't want to overstretch the spring. The frame will then lift out of the gripwith a little wiggling. I made a rough drawing of the hammer and springs so I could get them reassembled later. A parts diagram will help also. Use your block of wood and a proper size punch to drift the roll pin holding the hammerblockout far enough to get things apart. I don't think I had to completely remove the roll pin. The hardest part was getting the new hammer block and the little spring in proper position to get the roll pin back in. I read one post about using a straw. I think it was in the P3-AT section. I used a fired .32 brass casing [it may have been a .380 casing-but I think it was .32] and put the leg of the spring into the hammer block and put the brass over the block and part of the spring to hold them in position while I drifted the roll pin back in. I seem to remember using the punch as a slave pin to get things started and having to push the hammer block forward to get the hammer in proper position. I'm making it sound more complicated than it is. A bit of patience and a guinness helps.
 

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I was the one having problems with getting the wrong hammer assy. from keltec. I can tell you that i'm no gunsmith, but changing the hammer is pretty easy.

I finally got the right one from them but it had some scratches on the side from where they had put a grinder to it for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was about to call Kel-Tec to request the parts to upgrade my P3AT and logged back in here to figure out exactly what I need to ask for as well as the proper part numbers. I realized by doing that that I don't know whether I just want/need the new hammer block or whether I actually need the "hammer assembly," or both the block and the hammer assembly? Would someone confirm exactly what is need for this upgrade?

Thanks,

Mark
 
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Be sure to stress you need the new, upgraded, anti-shortstroke hammer block, and NOT the old one. It has taken several tries for some folks to get the new one.
 
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