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Hi, long time lurker with a question. I just got home with my new sub2k and am wondering how tight it should be unfolded?

There is a bit of play in mine, maybe 1/32 or so. Just wanted to get some feedback before I take it to the range.

Thanks
 

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I have absolutely NO PLAY in my S2K. It is the only one I have ever had in my hands, so there is no way I can compare it to any others. It was the first thing I noticed out of the box, was how TIGHT the lockup was when unfolded. I have about 150 rounds down range at this point, so it is still new, but no change has occurred. I have also installed the Mcarbo springs and trigger, and find the lockup just as tight. I'm sure others on this board can help you with this.
 

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Mine has a bit of play. Been shooting for several months now with no issues.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUC1g1ebksk
Yours and your buddy's are too loose. Remove the forearm and tighten the round barrel nut hand tight against the receiver with the gun locked open and unfolded. You may want to use a towel over the nut while doing this as the slotted sides can be sharp. ONLY hand tight. That nut is what controls lockup of the trigger guard. You want to set it so the trigger guard just slips closed as the barrel seats. Don't use a strap wrench as this will allow you to make it so tight you won't be able to unlock the gun. The slotted side of the barrel nut are held by the forearm halves being clamped back into them when reassembled, so make sure your forearm screws are nice and tight. Not grogged down, but tight. You might be able to "feel" some movement after you adjust it, but you should not be able to see it.
 

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Yours and your buddy's are too loose. Remove the forearm and tighten the round barrel nut hand tight against the receiver with the gun locked open and unfolded. You may want to use a towel over the nut while doing this as the slotted sides can be sharp. ONLY hand tight. That nut is what controls lockup of the trigger guard. You want to set it so the trigger guard just slips closed as the barrel seats. Don't use a strap wrench as this will allow you to make it so tight you won't be able to unlock the gun. The slotted side of the barrel nut are held by the forearm halves being clamped back into them when reassembled, so make sure your forearm screws are nice and tight. Not grogged down, but tight. You might be able to "feel" some movement after you adjust it, but you should not be able to see it.
I haven't looked at what you're talking about yet so the answer to this question may become obvious when I do (hopefully over the weekend), but is this something that can come loose just through normal use and needs to be part of regular maintenance?
 

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I haven't looked at what you're talking about yet so the answer to this question may become obvious when I do (hopefully over the weekend), but is this something that can come loose just through normal use and needs to be part of regular maintenance?
Not normally if you keep the forearm screws tight. It kind of "clamps" the barrel nut between the 2 halves.
 

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I just removed my handguard and tightened the "nut" as described by 3WB. It took some of the play out, but there's still some there. I tightened it beyond just hand tight as well and it doesn't seem to remove any more of the play. It's less, but still some there. Does anyone really not have ANY play there?

Per 3WB: "You might be able to "feel" some movement after you adjust it, but you should not be able to see it. " I can still see it - just a wee little bit.

And I should also note that when I removed the handguard, the nut was fairly loose. I was able to turn it at least 1/8" or so before really making solid contact and starting to tighten.
 

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I just adjusted my locknut.

Finger tight was a SLIGHT improvement but visible movement was still evident.

A vice-grip w/ rubber shim was required to tighten things up.

Still galled the nut a bit.

My strap wrench couldn't get a purchase.

All visible movement is now gone.

However, if I REALLY horse it I can create some.

We'll see...
 

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I just adjusted my locknut.

Finger tight was a SLIGHT improvement but visible movement was still evident.

A vice-grip w/ rubber shim was required to tighten things up.

Still galled the nut a bit.

My strap wrench couldn't get a purchase.

All visible movement is now gone.

However, if I REALLY horse it I can create some.

We'll see...
Did anyone else notice my earlier post saying NOT to use a strap wrench? :eek::confused:
 

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I sent a brand new unfired Gen 2 Glock 17 model back to KelTec for this same problem. They have had it a month now, and I havent heard anything yet.

As far as im concerned any visible play in that locking mechanism can result in sight alignment issues.

In addition, mine would cam over to the left side when folded, and out of the box my front sight post was noticeably adjusted to the left. Im thinking the surfaces arent true, and causing a misalignment, and a quick fix at the factory was to move the post over. (unacceptable)

I am patiently waiting to see how Keltec remedies these problems, and fully intend to post all the information about the experience here at KTOG.

Update : details here, http://www.thektog.org/forum/f85/astounding-customer-service-experience-266425/
short version.. KT fixed it, and this thing is rock solid now.
 

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I finally got some time to call Keltec today and wait on the phone to get to a CS rep. I explained what was happening with my Sub (See post #4) and that I tightened up the nut but still had a small amount of movement.

** Take this for what it is worth ** I'm reporting what I was told **.
He said that a small amount of movement is completely normal and not at all unusual.

He confirmed what was already noted in this thread that the barrel nut should only be finger tight.

Note that the movement I still have in my Sub is much less than what you see in the video on post #4. Barely noticeable but it still moves. Per KT CS - normal.
Also note that mine has no rotation or other movements as notes in the post above.
 
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