[Kwesi]

After nearly 400 rounds thru my HC P3 the trigger pull is night and day compared to my 2nd blue one.

The blue has 183 rounds thru it and the entire pull is smooth and steady - very nice.

Not so on the HC. It takes a fair amount of pressure for it to break (hope that is the correct word) to the smooth pull of the blue.

Any ideas? I did the 360 search rc and 100 posts and didn't find much.

 

[rcmodel]

Check and make sure the trigger pin isn't backing out. That is about the only thing that can make the trigger pull "hard" at the breaking point.
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/triggerpin.htm

rcmodel

 

[Kwesi]

The blue with a great feel is extends about 1/4" down into the trigger.

The HC is about 1/8".

From the link you sent my blue looks exactly like it!

So is the HC up too high?

I'll question KT in the morning.

 

[GMax]

When my gun was new the trigger had a little "hitch" in it. It completely disappeared after the first shooting session and is now (1100+ rounds) super smooth.

 

[Beach]

The blue with a great feel is extends about 1/4" down into the trigger.

The HC is about 1/8".

From the link you sent my blue looks exactly like it!

So is the HC up too high?

I'll question KT in the morning.

The pin cannot go up too high and cause binding like it did in the P11. There is no place for it to go, as the top of the trigger is enclosed in the P3AT.

RCmodel, what he is saying is that the trigger is initially harder to pull, then it gets easier. I have never heard of this problem. Maybe the trigger bar is binding a bit, thats my best guess without seeing it first hand.

Beach

 

[Kwesi]

I called KT and reported the position of each trigger pin.

He said the fix is easy to I'm going to do this one:

1 drop of red locktite on the diameter of the pin then simply push it in all the way.

He said you should not see that pin protruding. The blue P3 will dry fire with it sticking out 1/4" but will fail with real ammo. The pin is also why my HC has a lot of resistance before breaking smooth.

I'll report back after next range visit.

Thanks for all your suggestions!

 

[rcmodel]

What'd I say to start with?

rcmodel

 

[Beach]

What'd I say to start with?

rcmodel

You said "breaking point", which I took as when it drops the hammer. Maybe I interpreted you wrong.

I was not able to drive them back in when the trigger pins walked in my P3ATs. Even with the frame out of the grip I could not drive them back in. The hole at the top of the axis pin was no longer aligned properly. I had to remove the trigger and start over to get it assembled correctly. Keep in mind you are hammering a steel pin into a thin aluminum axis pin if its not lined up properly.

Beach

 

[Kwesi]

KT made it sound simple - specifically nothing to remove just use a screw driver or whatever to push the pin up and in.

On my way to Home Depot for a few things and I'll pick up the red lock tite and give it a try.

 

[Beach]

I wish it were that simple, but I tried it myself first hand. Once that pin walks and you keep trying to pull the trigger, the pin will be out of alignment with the top axis hole. And you cant even tell how to align it without completely removing the trigger from the frame. I drilled a tiny hole in the top of the trigger and tapped the pin out from the top (frame out of the grip). Then I lined up everything with a punch pin, and carefully tapped the trigger pin back in from the bottom with blue loctite. If you manage to fix this yourself, you are well on your way to being a KTsmith.

Beach ;D

 

[Kwesi]

Beach: I knew better but had to try and eliminate shipping both of my P3's back to KT.

Before applying the drop of red locktite I tested to see if I could push the steel pin in. I moved the pin in slightly (partial celebration ;D) then applied the locktite BUT the pin refused to move any further

I'm packing them up tonight and calling KT for shipping instructions first thing in the morning.

Does anything go as "easy" as we are led to believe ???