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These guys are really good. For years they did Kel-tec's plating before they moved to Alabama. I'm unsure if they still do but the work they do on an individual gun is much nicer than the the Kel-tec finish.
Accurate Plating & Weaponry Inc.

5229 Co Rd 99, Newville, AL 36353
(334) 585-9488

https://g.co/kgs/5wlbZx
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the welcome, Gents. I checked with Metaloy and they emailed me today with info on their pricing for the P3AT slide hard-chroming = $85.00 plus shipping.

I will check with Accurate as I had work done with them back when they were in Florida. They do beautiful work.

Oh, my slide is rusted from salt-water exposure while boating.

BTW, a new slide (with guts, I assume) is $90.00 from Keltec. It's their new treatment not hard-chromed.
 

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If it's only a few bucks more I would just buy a new one. That way you won't be without your P3. If you have other options and find a better deal there's nothing wrong with that either.
 

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Lightly sand the rust off, and rattle can it.

With good prep, it will look better than new,
and will stand up to sweat and salt water...
my 3AT did great as a boat gun--with painted
slide, and protected hammer spring--see post
below.
 

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Oh, my slide is rusted from salt-water exposure while boating.
The slide rust is visually nasty, but check closely your hammer spring. Mine
rusted through right at the exposed hook, where it crosses the roll
pin in the butt of the grip. I didn't think to protect the exposed spring, and
while the slide did fine, the exposed spring did suffer from pocket-carry
in salt water soaked shorts!

With a broken hammer spring, you've got a ten ounce paper weight.

I covered the exposed area of the (replacement) hammer spring with
several layers of epoxy (J-B Weld).

This is straight rattle-can painting. I think it looks better than stock
blue, though my intent was protection, not looks (and I might be biased
in my opinion :rolleyes:).
 

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I've used several different single-part epoxy rattle can paints, with pretty consistent results. 'Single-part' epoxy paints are occasionally labelled as epoxies, but I've come to assume any paint that says "recoat within x minutes, or wait one week" and words to effect that full cure is obtained in a week, is an epoxy.

This opens a big range of automotive spray paints. Brake caliper and other varieties abound at $5 or so a can. I haven't tried it, but you could probably do a good prep, spray an epoxy base coat, and come back with any other type paint and get better adhesion on the epoxy base coat than you'd have gotten with regular enamel on the metal.

The single-part epoxies are usually labeled for use without any type of priming.

Like any other paint, prep is 98% of the job's success. That, and when they say "one week for full cure"--they ain't kidding. You can probably accelerate cure with moderate heat, but if you mess with it early, you won't like the results.

I have only carried the P3AT in a DeSantis pocket holster, and noticed zero effects. I've worn a P-11 with belt clip for over a year, and the slide commonly has sweat drops on it in summertime--and no rust.
 

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Steve912, thanks for so much detail! Like some others, I have the "toxic sweat" and paint is something I am considering. I can't do a week of downtime, though. I guess I'll save up for a Cerakoted slide.
 

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I've had good luck with Brownell's Alumahyde II paints.
I tried it on an old 870 and I wasn't impressed. I really tried to over do the prep work and gave it plenty of cure time. It just didn't seem any better than spray paint, it wore of some parts during the first range trip.

I would try something else, maybe durakote or just good spray paint instead if I did it again.
 
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