[Laib_Yechiel]

After two and a half years and approx 1000 rounds, the bottom loop of the hammer spring (part 275) broke where it attaches to the hammer spring catch (part 297) at the bottom of the grip.

I plan to ask Kel-Tec for a new spring and replace it myself. Does this require any special tools and is there any step of the process that I should be particularly concerned about? The article in the TecWorks section was a bit unclear and any handy hints or photos you may offer will be greatly appreciated.

The pistol is my everyday carry (at least until my new PF-9 comes in) and is a first generation P-3at purchased new in April of 2004.

Thanks again for any help, suggestions, or photos that would allow me to deal with this at home rather then send it back to the factory.

Peace and blessings,

Laib

 

[Guest]

laib; why not just ask kt for a complete hammer and spring assembly, that way it will come assembled and all you have to do is remove and reinstall, . u have to pull the frame anyway to install just the spring. It is easier this way and kt will accomadate you with this, if you ask them, probably at no charge to. Just have to remove the two frame pins and all slips out, then whil e it is out do alittle fluff and buff to the trigger bar, polish smooth on both sides and oil and reassemble. helps alot. just pay attention when you slide the frame out of the grip to watch the trigger bar and to see how the trigger spring is located on THE BOTTOM of the trigger bar in that little invisible groove. alittle dab of great there upon assembly won'thurt anything either. Good luck, they are very easy to work on, just take ur time. There are all kinds of threads on how to disassemble and reassemble this kt mini.. 8)

 

[TxCajun]

It's quick and very easy:

http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/disassembly.htm

 

[Laib_Yechiel]

Thank you, gentlemen - I will call Kel-Tec this morning and order the complete hammer and spring assembly.  

I have not pulled the frame before, thanks for the reference to the instructions (with the all important photos) to do this.

It is this type of advice and help that makes this the best of all the firearm boards that I belong to.  This is also the one I participate in the most.  No BS and no rants - just an atmosphere of comraderie and mutual concern.

I look forward to tackling this project and further bonding with my "little Buddy".  I'll let you know how it turns out.

Peace and blessings,

Laib

 

[Packer]

  Some tips:

1. Always pull the trigger first (after removing slide, and with cloth protecting the frame) to release the half-cocked spring tension. (of course on yours, this is already released)
2. disconnect the hammer spring at bottom b4 removing frame pins.
3. install frame pins B4 reconnecting hammer spring at bottom.
4. While you are in there: Do the trigger smoothing at: http://1bad69.com/keltec/triggersmoothing.htm
It will give you something to do while you wait for the parts.

You probably need to replace the magazine catch and spring while you have it apart also. KT will be glad to send them for free.

Packer.

 

[rjhauser]

+1 on everything 2pp said.

and the pictures on 1bad69.com are most helpful.

 

[Laib_Yechiel]

As always, Kel-Tec service is the best - I just spoke with Bill and ordered the parts needed for my repair, including the hammer spring assembly, the magazine catch with spring and a new set of recoil springs.

He said the parts will go out tomorrow, so by the end of next week I should be back in action again. And not a moment too soon either, my S&W model 60 is sooooo heavy compared to the 3AT that I'm starting to list to the right.

Thanks again, to Bill at Kel -Tec Service and to all of you for your suggestions.

Peace and blessings,
Laib Yechiel

 

[Guest]

2pp. nice thread on the smothing portion of the trigger bar etc. 8)

 

[Laib_Yechiel]

Yep, you were all right - thanks to your suggestions and the article you pointed out to me (http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/disassembly.htm) I ordered the parts, took a deep breath, poured myself an unsweetened ice-tea and dove into the project myself.  I am glad to report it was much easier to do the repair then I had anticipated.

While I had the pistol dis-assembled I also took advantage of 2PP's suggestion to polish the trigger bar (I used 600 silicon carbide paper) and did a thorough cleaning and relube with militech grease.  It definitely improved the trigger feel.

In short - In addition to not having the expense of sending it to Cocoa and having to be without it for two or three weeks, it was a great learning and confidence building exercise.

I was also impressed with the elegance and simplicity of the design.  Great Job Kel Tec.  I can't wait for my PF-9 to come in.

Thanks to all for your advice and encouragement, and to Bill at Kel-Tec for getting the parts to me so quickly.

Peace and blessings,
Laib

 

[Packer]

Alls well that ends with a happy KTOGer! I'm sure glad we were able to help you.

Of course, We just offered advice. It was your positive "Can Do" attitude that got the job done.

GOOD JOB and WELL DONE Laib!

Packer.

 

[PshootR]

That is about the only flaw I can see in the basic Kel-Tec handgun design. All other pistols which use a coil type hammer spring (the great majority other than the 1911 design) use a COMPRESSION spring to power the hammer. If it breaks the gun usually just keeps right on ticking and the user doesn't even realize it until he goes to change it or detail strips the gun. Kel-Tec of course uses an EXPANSION spring for the hammer, if it breaks you're outa business. One advantage of the firing pin modification and dial-a-trigger discussed on this board is that if you reduce the tension on the hammer spring it should reduce the stresses that lead to metal fatigue. Another potential benefit of these modifications is that with less spring pressure on the hammer it exerts less upward thrust against the bottom of the slide, thereby reducing drag and making for more reliable cycling.

After two and a half years and approx 1000 rounds, the bottom loop of the hammer spring (part 275) broke where it attaches to the hammer spring catch (part 297) at the bottom of the grip. <Snip>
Peace and blessings,

Laib

 

[TxCajun]

I was also impressed with the elegance and simplicity of the design.

+1! Unless you have a defective or out of spec barrel, slide or frame, there is little reason to send them back to the factory. 8)

 

[Guest]

PshootR: My hammer spring broke at the top loop but not enough broke off of it to hinder it inoperable. I never even knew it was broke until a tiny (the loop part) fell out on the work bench. I keep extra springs but this is the first spring to ever break on me and i have 4300 rounds thorugh my 380 kt. I really don't consider that a problem, bad springs come and go, one never knows, kt included that they have bad springs out there until masses of them start to snap and I have just not read that anywhere. I also when apart dremmel polish the complete hammer also, including the rounded bottom part of it also. Once can really smooth up the actions of the kt minis by some nice polishing and lubing. Other than the normal long trigger travel, my 380 is as smooth as glass.