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Discussion Starter #1
Have any of you done it, I have a can that has been sitting around for a couple of years. I have not done it yet because I don't have the desire to disassemble the slide. Have any of you done it by just taping off the extractor...sites ect??? How well did it work. Only reason why I am thinking of doing it is the bluing sucks on Kel-tec pistols. Thanks for the input guys.
 

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yes, i have done several kt's with the gun kote....i like the brushed silver, it looks like hard chrome...my p11 looks as good as the day i did it, i don't use it much...i did my brothers 380, every day carry, it has been several years on that one.....take the sights off, pull the fire pin and extractor....sand blasting is best, it gets all the junk off to bare metal...i got a $15 blaster from harbor freight....i use the prevail spray bottle, $10 from home depot....to bake it, i had on old george forman around...use can use an old toaster oven....a $30 can will last a long time.....gary
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am sure I can find it on here somewhere but I am lazy. once you remove the sights can you reinstall them or do you need to buy new ones?
 

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2litl2l8 said:
I am sure I can find it on here somewhere but I am lazy. once you remove the sights can you reinstall them or do you need to buy new ones?
You can reinstall them. The front one you just push out with a punch. When reinstalling you just press it back in. Might want to flare the inside a bit with a soldering iron tip or something just for added security. The back I haven't touched, but I do believe they can be removed an reinstalled. Obviously you'll have to resight the gun after
 

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yes, i have done several kt's with the gun kote....i like the brushed silver, it looks like hard chrome...my p11 looks as good as the day i did it, i don't use it much...i did my brothers 380, every day carry, it has been several years on that one.....take the sights off, pull the fire pin and extractor....sand blasting is best, it gets all the junk off to bare metal...i got a $15 blaster from harbor freight....i use the prevail spray bottle, $10 from home depot....to bake it, i had on old george forman around...use can use an old toaster oven....a $30 can will last a long time.....gary
Not to de-rail the thread...but is this a baking soda blaster you are referring too?
 

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Do not Sandblast

Bead Blast or better yet, use walnut hulls like they use to clean brass in your blaster.
Sand Blasting will damage the metal on most firearms.
 

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Probably a dumb question, but is removing the extractor really necessary? I once tried to hammer out the extractor retention pin on my P11 and it went NOWHERE, and I was afraid of damaging the slide by banging on things a bit too hard. Right now, it's just bare polished steel but I'm thinking of going the Gun Kote route at some point, too, and in the same silver color as well (since it would match my hard chrome PF9 and stainless SW9VE nicely).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is a question I had as well, I am afraid if you do not the gunkote will interfere with the operation of the extractor...
 

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Isn't Gun Kote supposed to be so thin and add surface lubricity that it can be used on parts that get a lot of friction wear, such as the inside slide rails and such? (I might be confusing Gun Kote with another brand...) If so, then I'd wager that the extractor's function won't be impaired, but it's likely to show some wear or possibly chip/flake ... which I would probably be okay with, actually, as long as the rest of the slide is protected from rust. But if Gun Kote is some pretty thick stuff like Duracoat, then I guess maybe it'd be necessary to remove the extractor ... but then the next question is HOW?
 

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So I'm bumping this thread for a painting question:

When using gun kote, are you doing the inside and outside? or masking off the bottom and just painting the outside of the slide?

I agree with the OP, the stock bluing sucks. Mine has been worn down.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I coated the whole thing....very disappointed in it. it is all chipping off everywhere. I did it right too...beadblasted, de-greased and baked in the oven. I am sending it to Black Ice Coatings here in Utah...see how that turns out.
 

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All baked on gun finishes need a rough, grease / oil free surface in order to adhere properly. I would recommend that you blast with aluminum oxide and parkerize with Brownell's manganese park solution. This will give the slide some "tooth" to hold the paint on. Prep is the key to a quality paint job. A lot of home builders have had good luck with Rustolium appliance paint. It is a baked on finish that resists solvents at half the cost of Gun Kote. Another option is Brownell's rust blue. This is the way guns were blued in the old days. It is very time consuming, but it can be done at home with little cost. It produces a deep in the "metal" bluing like you would find on a vintage WW1 Luger.
 
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