I had one FTE at a range session. I just shrugged it off as it was the only one and could not duplicate. Back home I took off the extractor bolt, spring and extractor. I expected to find the extractor needed some attention, buff, file off a burr or such. I found no issues. So I put it all back together. Now, at a later range session I start getting multiple FTEs. Upon examination I find I can move the extractor spring with my fingernail. If the bolt is tight this should not happen. So, I go to tighten the bolt and it is as tight as it will go. I remove it, and reinstall it but the spring is still a little loose. Upon close examination, I see a small gap between the lower bolt head and extractor spring, but again the bolt is fully tight. Upon closer examination I find that the top of the bolt head is contacting the slide preventing it from screwing all the way down. I also measured the depth of the bolt hole and compare it to the length of the bolt. THE BOLT IS TOO LONG for the hole. A little slow and steady fluff and buff on the slide recess for the extractor bolt and the head now had clearance to screw all the way down. A little filing on the bolt and it is now short enough to screw all the way down. A bit of oxpho-blue, oil and loc-tight and it is all back together. The extractor spring is nice and tight and cannot be moved with the fingernail. I assume that the situation did not reveal itself sooner because the spring had not broken it and was therefore a bit stiffer. Now for a range test.
The bolt is supposed to be longer than the hole depth. It holds the firing pin in place. If it was truly too long the gun would not fire when it is turned all the way down. If you think the bolt head is too big call Kel-Tec, they will send a new one right out.
I don't think it ever was an issue with the actual bolt head but milling of the slide. I still cannot figure out why the bolt was longer than the hole was deep. I will check firing pin function and retainability. Thanks for the heads-up. I still cannot accept that the extractor spring should move about in its slot when the bolt is fully tightened.
You are right the buttonhead (bolt) should be tight. I would get a new one, if you have shortened it I would not use it. The end of it fits in a notch in the firing pin and holds the pin in the firing pin channel. As long as the firing pin moves freely in the channel the buttonhead is not too long. If you're going to remove the buttonhead you may as well field strip the gun and take the firing pin and spring out also. That way you can clean out the channel and inspect everything. once you get everything clean put just a dab of blue loc-tite on the threads near the bolt head and just snug it down so it wont come loose again.
You need a new extractor/firing pin screw. I don't think I'd fire it with that shortened one. The end of it fits against the flat side of the FP. Probably after removing it, when you reinstalled, your FP was not oriented correctly, which is why the screw appeared to be too long. Call KT and get a couple more. Some folks use a dab of blue locktite on the threads.
Yes, you guys are right. I feel a bit silly :-[. Apparently when I first removed the extractor bolt, the firing pin rotated or was just too far to the rear. I really had no ideas the extractor bolt also held the firing pin. The amazing thing is that the gun was firing. Anyway now my extractor bolt is too short to retain the firing pin. So, I called the great customer service of KT and they are sending me a new extractor, spring and bolt.
Maybe should have got a new firing pin too. If you cranked the screw down tight against the wrong side of the firing pin, you could have bent it. At least check it for straightness by rolling it on a flat surface and see if it wobbles. rcmodel
