Hey guys, I have a question for you. I returned my recently purchased P-3AT to Kel-Tec for serveral problems. I could not have asked for better customer service . I am still experiencing one problem and I do not know if it is something I am doing or if there is still a problem with the weapon. First off it was cleaned and lubed. After years of firing .45 autos, I am familiar with plenty of lubrication and no limp wristing, but this little rascal is a different animal. I am still experiencing problems with failures to extract. The spent casing is either not extracted at all, causing the next round to jam against the end of the spent casing, or it is only ejected partially, causing the next round to jam underneath the spent round. Can limp wristing cause a failure to extract issue? I know it can cause ejection problems, but I do not see how it can affect the extraction issues. Kel-tech put in a new extractor screw because the original one was loose and would not tighten. It fires much better than it did before sending it back, but I want to solve this extraction problem. Any suggestions?
These little guns are nothing at all like a 1911 .45 auto. Try bending your elbows and locking your wrists...I mean don't let your wrists move. Let your elbows take some of the recoil. Unless you clamp it in a vice, the pistol is moving in your hands and wrists, it's not grip strength you need, you need to outfox it by letting your elbows move. Just a bit. Try it next time your at the range, once you learn how...you won't believe how much better you can shoot your .45. Read this....http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1206210540/0#0
These are some possible mechanical causes of Kel-Tec P-3AT malfunctions and their fixes in order of potential cause. Note: (2G) = Second Generation model with external buttonhead screw. Failure To Feed (FTFe). 1. Dirty or rough Chamber and/or Feed Ramp and/or Hood - Clean them and/or polish them. 2. Something obstructing the forward movement of the slide (dirt, burrs) - Clean, de-burr, lube. 3. Non-compatible ammo - Try other brands. 4. Bad recoil springs - Replace them. 5. Dirty Magazine - Clean it. 6. Bad Magazine Spring - Replace it. 7. Bad Magazine Follower - Replace it. 8. Bad Magazine Tube - Replace it. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Failure To Fire (FTFi). 1. Failure to allow the trigger to fully reset - Allow the trigger to move fully forward after each shot. 2. Bad Ammo (commonly hard primers) - Try other brands. 3. Poor Lubrication - Lube it. 4. Firing Pin Spring Too Long - Replace it. (Only on older guns. New guns come with shorter springs.). 5. Firing Pin Jammed - This can happen if the extractor screw loosens, and while loose, the firing pin turns (the extractor screw also retains the firing pin). When the screw is re-tightened it can jam the firing pin because the screw is not in the retaining slot of the firing pin. (The screw must have loosened a lot for this to happen and you would probably have had a lot of FTEx's first). 6. Weak or Broken Hammer Spring - Replace it. 7. Dirty Firing Pin Channel - Clean it. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Failure To Extract (FTEx). 1. Loose Extractor Spring Screw (External Button Head Screw) (2G) - Tighten it. 2. Dirty Extractor - Clean it. 3. Dirty or Rough Chamber - Clean it and/or polish it. 4. Non-compatible ammo - Try other brands. 5. Limp-wristing - Lock your wrist 6. Bad Extractor - Replace it. 7. Poor Slide Lube - Lube it. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Failure To Eject (FTEj). 1. Loose Extractor Spring Screw (2G) - Tighten it. 2. Bad Extractor - Replace it. 3. Dirty or Rough Chamber - Clean it and/or polish it 4. Non-compatible ammo - Try other brands. 5. Limp-wristing - Lock your wrist 6. Bad or Missing Ejector (part #115) - Replace it. 7. Poor Slide Lube - Lube it. 8. Dirty Magazine - Clean it. 9. Bad Magazine Spring - Replace it. Bobo
