Hello everybody, Just picked up my first kel tec, I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but i have cleaned the packing goop out and ran a few clips through it manually. I really hope this works out, i love the size and weight of the p3at.
Welcome to KTOG and congrates on your FIRST KT Besides a good cleaning, besure to give it a good lube before shooting. PS, while you'll find this a very good place to discuss guns and other subjects for both the novice and the expert, there is one peeve that most of us have. It is a magazine, not a clip
old habits die hard.... did a good lube with rem oil on all metal and moving parts, any recommendations on a good lube to use for the slide rails? can't wait to shoot this baby.
If you have any grease (automative, etc) just a dab on each rail and the bottom rail under the slide that pushes the hammer back during recoil. Also, Keep a close eye on the little ejector. They have a tendenecy to jump out and hide.
great i used some thompson center grease in those areas, i used a small dab of this stuff, alittle tends to go a long way
Good for you! Great, in my opinion, low threat CCW made even better with painted sights (I used white paint to do a dot-the-eye) and grip modification ( Bersa magazine finger extention, AGLaser pads and rubber sleeve work for me). Take care ...
I use grease on the barrel lugs and assembly pin as well: http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/care2.htm
Just a hint: I have found that a small dab of grease on the bottom of the ejector helps to keep it from jumping out and looking for a hiding place. Welcome to the forum. Good luck and Good shooting, DG
well put almost 50 rounds through it today before the assembly pin started to back out. I had 2 FTE's during this, but i feel i can blame that on the pin backing out. I got it home, took it apart to look at the assembly pin spring, everything looked ok, thats when i noticed the assembly pin was not seated all the way. I cleared some of the material that was blocking it from seating. Seems like it holds alot better now. Before i could pull it out with my finger, at least now it takes some effort to get the pin out. i'll be taking it out a again tomorrow, hopefully for a better trip.
Per the owner's manual, and personal experience, always support the polymer grip with 2 fingers (pressure) around the assembly pin when pulling the pin. Otherwise, the pin may pull the spring that it engages out of place and cause the grip to bow out in that area. Then you will have issues keeping the pin in place.
that's how i did it, but from the start the pin was easily removed with a finger. There was no resistance. upon inspection the hole was shallow, not allowing the "grooved" section of the assemply pen to catch. Now there is plenty of resistance, and should hold.
Cool. Here's some background info from the 1st gen P3AT. Walking assembly pins was a recurrent issue at one time. The original cause has long since been corrected with a redesigned pin but the info on possible barrel lug/frame damage, etc is still relevent. Glad you figured it out: http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/assemblypin.htm
thanks for the info, this forum was a deciding factor in me buying one, and is very helpful. I do hope though that this minor issue is the only one i will have. I fully intend on using this small easily concealable gun for it's designed purpose. I just need to trust it. And not to mention if it works out well for me, my wife will want one for the same reason.
I haven't seen problems with assembly pins in years except for the very occassional old pistol that pops up. You should be fine; just keep an eye on it next time you shoot. BTW, has your wife shot yours yet? She may prefer a P32.
no she hasn't had the chance to shoot it. I don't think there will be too much of an issue, she currently uses a s&w 642 and has shot my PT-140, ruger security six 357 mag. I don't think she'll have any issues. She has been claiming my .357 mag as her own though. funny how that happens.
Getting here late... I think the pin problem was the thickness of the grip polymer stoped the head and prevents the groove from going past the hair pin spring. Removing a little of the polymer from around the hole will let the groove go past and the hair pin snap and hold it. I would want to remove enough polymer so that the pin moves in and out with finger force about 0.010". That give a little over travel when snapping the pin in.
+1 exactly what i did. Can't wait to try it out again, i have 150 more round to put through it, and they need to be flawless, or darn near it before i will carry it. anybody have any suggestions for SD ammo, i'm not to sure i want to use any +P rounds in these. I know the book says limited use, but exactly how much is limited?
There are no SAAMI spec for +P in 380 acp so technically, it does not exist. Some folks prefer FMJ in lesser calibers like 380 and most FMJ rounds perform about the same from what I've seen. That is, they all penetrate well beyond FBI minimum standard of 12 inches. In JHP, I have yet to see anything do much better than Corbon DPX although it is not cheap to shoot. There are a handful of other top contenders that do nearly as well.
yayy took it out again today,original problem is solved. Shot 57 rounds had 4 FTE's toward the end. The last round failed to eject, is this common and is there a quick fix to that...total rounds ran through this gun so far is 107.
