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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

I took out my firing pin and cleaned out the firing pin well as well as the spring and firing pin itself. I remember the firing pin notch being at right angle from the top side of the slide, facing the extractor, so I returned it the same way.

Is this correct?

Are there photos?

Thanks!
HGWT
 

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Is yours a 1G, with the allen set screw just retaining the pin, or
Is yours a 2G with the button head screw retaining extractor and pin?
 

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Either / or,

the end of the screw will be in the flat of the pin.  That is why the flat is there.  You also need to use a thread sealant of your choice.  I prefer LocTite purple, but blue will do and is easier found.  elmers glue or fingernail polish will work.

for a 1G, with the screw going straght down through the slide, turn the flat on top when you put it in.  Then use your recoil rod guide to compress the spring to position the pin to the normal position,  slowly screw in the allen set while working the pin in and out slightly so it will rotate and align itself exactly with flat and end of allen.  when the allen is snug, the pin will not be able to push in and out.  thus loosen 1/4 [highlight]1/2[/highlight] turn.  the pin should be able to be moved in and out and the screw depth prevents it from coming back out of the slide.

for the 2G, the screw is on the side of the slide about 60 degrees off TDC,  Turn the flat so that it is where the screw will come through.   Use your recoil rod to compress the spring into position, slowly screw the button head while working the pin in and out so it will rotate and align itself exactly with the flat and end of screw.  you will notice a slight increas in require torque to screw in as you compress the extractor leaf spring.  the final torque require for the button head screw is like 10 in-lbs.  that is using an allen 'L' with the short arm for turning, use just index and thumb to snug.  if you exceed the 10 in-lb torque you will start to strip the threads.  the button head screw for the 2G has to exactly the correct lenght since it must be tight to hold the extractor and provide clearance with the notch in the pin to allow it to slide.

Once the screw is set, the pin should be able to push it in and out with NO felt drag (there will be spring resitance), especially the initial push to get it start

corrected to agree with
 

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After 100 rds through my new P3AT HC l noticed behind the firing pin in a straight line to the slide cutout a deep gouge
on the top of the slide cutout,almost like the firing pin came back and scraped it or something scraped it..
Does anybody know what it could be??????
 

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boatnsc said:
..behind the firing pin in a straight line to the slide cutout a deep gouge on the top of the slide cutout,almost like the firing pin came back and scraped it or something scraped it..?
would that be
accross the 0.375" endmilled circle from the exposed stiker end of the firing pin?
That would be the hammer striking the slide as it arcs towards hitting the firing pin. look at the top of the hammer for a mating mark. If it draggs accros there, it could cause a light strike (failure to fire)
 

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PshootR

I could make out where boatnsc was reffering to...but that is the area I am asking him about. I have a very faint rub in the finish there on mine
 

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OK this has to be hammer rub, very top tip of hammer is shiny , however , what l cant figure out is the rub is the exact center of the cutout like someone dragged a knife blade across the cutout equidistant from both sides of the cutout ,like there was a burr in the very center of the top of the hammer , anyway l sanded it down and smoothed itout and will shoot today and see if it returns
 

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Putting the firing pin back in
Slide the firing pin spring over the end of the firing pin and put it into the slide from the rear with the slot cut in the firing pin up. Apply a drop or 2 of medium lock tite to the exposed threads on the firing pin set screw. Now push the firing pin into the hole, and tighten the set screw until it lightly bottoms out against the bottom of the slot in the firing pin. Then back the set screw out 1/2 a turn. Slowly release the pressure on the firing pin and it should stay in the slide and move smoothly forward and back.
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/disassembly.htm
 

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havegunwilltravel said:
...When I got it, it was at a right angle - not exactly facing the buttonhead.

How bout the rest of you out there? What was the angle of the pin out of the box?
...
Are you referancing the orinatiation based on the striker end of the firing pin as seen at the end of the slide?

Now that you have brought it to attention,

I observed I can rotate my firing pin from near right angle (~80 degrees from TDC ) to about about about 40 degrees .  This is an indication how much clearance I have between the end of the screw and the base of the notch (more than I expected :-?)

To rotate the pin, I used a braided string like a strap wrench.  You can use a round toothpick to rotated the notch too.  easily to near right angle, but not possible to ensure total rotation the other way.

edit

given my firing pin rotates +/- 20 degrees, the width of the button head screw is 0.138" accross, I would say I have 0.024" clearance between the pin flat and the screw. that would be equivlant to about 3/4 of a turn of the screw. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll send a picture soon but as for now, imagine that you were holding the gun at the range and looking down its sights. The face of the notch on the firing pin is facing exactly to the right. This would be perpendicular to top dead center.

I got it out of the box this way and I was wondering if this is okay as opposed to having the notch perfectly face the buttonhead screw itself which is at an angle from top dead center.

My 2nd gen p-3at functions well. (In about 100rds for factory fmj ammo, I've had one stovepipe which may have been due to limp-wristing.

I've shot reloads which have been closer to target loads as opposed to factory loads. In 50 of those reloads, i've had 3 cycle failures - which may have been due to minimal powder load.)
 

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havegunwilltravel said:
..The face of the notch on the firing pin is facing exactly to the right. This would be perpendicular to top dead center.

.... if this is okay as opposed to having the notch perfectly face the buttonhead screw itself which is at an angle from top dead center.....
YES...
but, If you want to, take a tooth pick and turn it to align with the screw

JFB said:
...I can rotate my firing pin from near right angle (~80 degrees from TDC ) to about about about 40 degrees ....To rotate the pin, I used a braided string like a strap wrench. You can use a round toothpick to rotated the notch too. easily to near right angle, but not possible to ensure total rotation the other way.
...

I have also checked my P32, the firing pin in it can rotated past right angle (100 degress). While I have no intention to do any thing with it now, when I clean the firing pin channel again (could be an year of so since I don't carry it as much) I will use a new screw and see if it reduces the amount it can turn. the same with P3AT, but maybe sooner
 
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