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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The first thing I did when I bought my KSG was disassemble it. I noticed the mating surfaces of the sear and the sear bar were quite rough. I decided then and there that a full trigger job was going to be a part of my build. After putting some rounds through her at the range to get the parts used to each other I started working. First I weighed the trigger pull. 6.1 pounds on my digital scale. And I measure about 1/8 inch of pull on the trigger before the sear would even come up tight. (Front to back play) I DID NOT sand or grind down any of the surfaces. I simply used a buffing wheel and light buffing compound to bring both pieces to a mirror shine. Reassembled the weapon and she was sitting happy at 4.2 pounds. A pretty substantial drop for just some polishing. I found out that a company by the name of W Engineering makes a couple pretty fantastic parts for the KSG. Namely in this case, a stainless steel, titanium nitride coated, skeletonized, fully adjustable trigger. There were a few obscure articles on here buried in the archives about it and they had good things to say for the most part. I received it last week in the mail and finished installing it yesterday. The trigger is now at 3.4 pounds of pull with ZERO play. This is where the new trigger makes the difference in my book. The front to back play is completely gone. There is no side to side play either. The sear catch is just a small steel insert embedded in the stock trigger. It has a serious amount of slop in it. I honestly think they did that to make the final assembly of the gun easier for there techs. When re assembling the stock trigger group, I slid it all together with my fingers. When putting in the new trigger I needed 3 wire ties, a flat head screwdriver, and a partridge in a pear tree. It took ALOT of work to get it adjusted just right too. Simply because I had to make 1 turn of the sear adjustment screw, reassemle, test, disassemble, 1 turn, reassemble.... etc. I now understand why gunsmiths charge what they do. I am about 12 hours deep just getting the new trigger perfectly adjusted. Am I crazy? Maybe. Does it feel nice having done it myself? HELL YEAH! Does it operate smoother and easier. Absolutely. Plus the gold colored titanium nitride coating officially looks bad ass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't take pictures along the way, but here are some of the finished product. Since alot of people seem interested I'll do another full tear down and reassembly with lots of photos along the way for anyone that wants to see what all I did. I'll probably write it up as an article. I'll up date this thread once I get to it.
 

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I didn't take pictures along the way,
:brickwall::brickwall::brickwall:

:nopics:
Since alot of people seem interested I'll do another full tear down and reassembly with lots of photos along the way for anyone that wants to see what all I did.
Black Emoticon Yellow Smiley Smile
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< at least 4. Get to work:).
I'll probably write it up as an article. I'll update this thread once I get to it.
We will be waiting:D.

(and don't leave out any details, like links where the parts came from and what they cost)
 

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I didn't take pictures along the way, but here are some of the finished product. Since alot of people seem interested I'll do another full tear down and reassembly with lots of photos along the way for anyone that wants to see what all I did. I'll probably write it up as an article. I'll up date this thread once I get to it.
Thanks VERY much for that!

I've done a trigger replacement on my Sub 2000 but I've been nervous about the KSG. A walkthrough would be GREAT!
 

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I'm interested in futher pictures/writing as well. Either way after I'm back home from the holidays, I'll be ordering a trigger replacement from them and will make my own writeup of it. :D I haven't had any issues with the stock trigger, but replacing it sounds like it does give an improvement and is doable enough.
Also to second what was mentioned, I've never taken a grinding wheel to the KSG except for a slight Bubba notch; everything else I've only used either a burnishing or buffing wheel with a dremel (mainly buffing out the parkerization from the chamber) and I plan to lightly buff the stock trigger surfaces first and see if it makes a difference, if even needed.
 
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