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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I am a new proud owner of a new KelTec P3AT. I went to shoot it earlier today for the first time, only to have mixed feelings. Its a great gun, great design, and accurate. Perfect as my backup duty weapon (I'm Houston PD) but i seem to have failure to feed issues with it.

There were no misfires or fail to eject, only failure to feed. it would happen almost EVERY 7 rounds. Even before shooting, when i put the loaded mag in, and pull the slide back and release, the bullet would get stuck, and the slide also. I would use my thumb to push the slide forward the bullet into the chamber. I'm not sure if the recoil spring is defective, magazine is defective, or something wrong with the feed ramp. Or i'm not sure what the problem is.

I fired 100 rounds of American Eagle 95 gp FMJ ball ammo, and almost every 7 rounds, it would have a feed problem. I checked the bullets, and they would have a nice "smiley" on it every time it happens.

What can i do about this?

Thank you for everyone's help and input!

I'm not too familiar with messing with guns, so bear with me. :-/
 

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The KelTec hates flat, abrupt edged JHP. Take a look at Hornaday critical Defense.
Take a look around at all the ammo or feed threads in the most recent 3 pages here. There is excelent information about this and will leave you feeling much better about this gun and its reliability.
Law man? Thank you for what you do!!!
 

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CD

Go to the top of the page, enter the TecWerks portion of this site. You will find lots of good info that works. Pay particular attention to the fluff and buff pages, it will help. After you have cleaned and lubed your gun, give us a new range report.

My p3at did the same thing when it was new, now it works flawlessly. :)
 

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It is true I only shoot hard ball ammo due to the jams until I discovered Hornaday critical Defense rounds. I carry them always now they are great. My P32 and my P3AT hate the flat top hollow points.
 

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Oh yeah. The manual tells you that the gun has to wear in. It takes a 100 rounds or so then a real good cleaning. After that it's much improved.
 

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ChiDiddy said:
it would happen almost EVERY 7 rounds. Even before shooting, when i put the loaded mag in, and pull the slide back and release, the bullet would get stuck, and the slide also. I would use my thumb to push the slide forward the bullet into the chamber.
Pretty normal during break-in. Lube it up well and shoot it some more. Flatter nosed bullet shapes are the worse for this...try something a little more rounded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
See the thing is, i cleaned it and lubed it, and it still locks up when i'm manually pulling the slide to load the chamber!

Amer Eagle ball rounds are pretty round...moreso than Speer Lawman's which i normally use for gun range.

I plan to load Speer GoldDot hollow points in them. (use them for duty gun) I've heard that this gun works fine with it. Plus, i think its a smoother bullet that would help it slide.

I'll also give Hornady rounds a try, but i'm looking to keep hollow points in the gun.

But damnit, i CANNOT find ANY .380 auto GoldDots or even Hornady ammo ANYWHERE in houston. I've called and called for the past 2 weeks with negative results...anyone wana sell me some GoldDots???

And you're welcome Mohave-tec, i love what i do :)
 

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ChiDiddy said:
See the thing is, i cleaned it and lubed it, and it still locks up when i'm manually pulling the slide to load the chamber!
When you manually rack the slide, pull it all the way back and let it fly...SHARPLY!
We've all been thru it, after a couple hundred rounds it'll be mucho better.    ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hmm....i hope so :) But i do let the slide "fly sharply", it still catches.

but i'm not too much of a gunsmith to do the fluff/buff....i wonder if theres someone local that can do it....i'll also give the HPD firearms staff a call to see if they know how to do it.

i guess i need to fire more rounds eh? But cannot find any other type of ammo!!!!

Another thing, i need to dremel down the magazine release button....my mag keeps popping out, lol.
 

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I don't know if I would blame the ammo AE is usually one of the best 380 rounds in FMJ. A F&B would help or at least a good polish of the feed ramp.  Also KT's like to be a little heavy on the oil and a bit of grease on the frame rails and hammer interface. If you don't want to do the F&B yourself I would recommed sending it to "Goldenloki" who is a member here and a gun smith. He has an ad in the trading post section for a F&B of the top end (slide, barrel and recoil guide rod) for $20 IIRC. But you need 25 posts before you can look at the trading post section here. If all else fails KT has a great warranty and customer service.

http://www.goldenloki.com/gunsmith.htm

CJ
 

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It's not hard to do a F&B. Just follow the instruction in Techworks. It's more satisfying to DYI. I had issues with AE ammo recently with FTE, but later discovered that i had a loose extractor button head. With my luck, I've probably over tightened it now. I have had excellent results with corbon and hydra shok ammo.
 

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+1 on the GoldenLoki web link. I recently sent my barrel and slide to him. I was without it for only 1 week. Most of that time was for shipping USPS Priority Mail. American Eagle ammo is one of the best feeders for the P3AT. You may have a loose extractor screw. These guns get better the more they are shot.

Good luck
Craig
 

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i had the same problem when my p3at was new. not quite as many as you but still teh same problem. i was thinking of doing the F&B but after a few hundred rounds it went away by itself. oh, and when racking the slide it still sticks if i ride it. i dont see that as a problem though.
 

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Go buy a Dremel tool, put in one of the felt wheels, put some Dremel polishing rouge on the felt and polish the heck out of the feed ramp. You can not screw this up-it is so easy. Polish the ramp until it looks like a mirror. After you've polished the feed ramp the felt pad should be small enough to fit into the chamber. Polish the chamber like the feed ramp and you've done the most important things you can do to improve the reliability of your 380. It is painfully easy to do.

I did these two things to my 2nd generation 380 before I ever shot it and I've NEVER had any failure of any kind after about 250 rounds.

copterdrvr
 

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copterdrvr said:
Go buy a Dremel tool, put in one of the felt wheels, put some Dremel polishing rouge on the felt and polish the heck out of the feed ramp.  You can not screw this up-it is so easy.  Polish the ramp until it looks like a mirror.  After you've polished the feed ramp the felt pad should be small enough to fit into the chamber.  Polish the chamber like the feed ramp and you've done the most important things you can do to improve the reliability of your 380.  It is painfully easy to do.

I did these two things to my 2nd generation 380 before I ever shot it and I've NEVER had any failure of any kind after about 250 rounds.  

copterdrvr
My understanding is that the second generation didn't need this proceedure, it was the first generation. My 2nd feeds fine.
 

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I do agree that the second generation 380's "fixed" some of the problems of the first gen. but I disagree with your assessment that the 2nd gen guns don't "need" some of the extra TLC. I've never come across a semi-auto pistol that didn't benefit from at least a little polishing.

If you look closely at the ramp that the bullet of the cartridge will slide against as it makes its way from the magazine up the ramp into the chamber, you will see what appear to be very small machining marks on the ramp that are made when the barrel is manufactured. The machining marks are so tiny that they appear as if they couldn't effect the functioning of the gun, but they can and do.

All of the semi-autos that I own (Browning Hi-Power's, CZ-75's, Astra A-75, Colt 1911, Keltec P3AT, Makarov have the surfaces that come in contact with the bullet on its way into the chamber polished to a high gloss. I also polish the chambers to help reduce the chance of the fired case (which expands to snuggly fit the chamber) of hanging up due to the friction between the fired case and the chamber walls.

All of my semi-auto's are 100% reliable, and heck, it's fun to do anyway! Oh, and it's also VERY easy to do because you're not cutting anything, you're polishing!!! If you just polish the feed ramp, you can't hardly make a mistake. My P3AT will shoot everything I put in it.

Copterdrvr
 

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Well copter, this makes ample good sense to me. I did do a study of bullet faces to and how different shaped bullets interact with the ramp with first contact and determined there is a huge difference in feed reliability. The polished ramp would make plenty sense. Seeing how I have a dremel and felt discs and drums, I think I'll give it a go. Where did you get the polish? Is this just Tin Oxide?
 

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haugrdr said:
[quote author=ChiDiddy link=1239931177/0#6 date=1239940346]See the thing is, i cleaned it and lubed it, and it still locks up when i'm manually pulling the slide to load the chamber!
When you manually rack the slide, pull it all the way back and let it fly...SHARPLY!
We've all been thru it, after a couple hundred rounds it'll be mucho better.    ;)[/quote]

I found this method to work for me. Because it's such a small weapon, I treated it some what in a wimpy way. And I too got FTF when racking a round. Like you, no problems with FTE or FTF when firing. As stated...'Let fly, SHARPLY' did the trick for me. Now, after much dry firing (with a snapcap) and several visits to the range, I have no problems. Sir, get manly when you rack that first round. Grow some brass!!!  ;)

Oh by the way, having a second gen P3, I never had to do a F&B on it. Work correctly right out of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
thank you all for the help and advice! i very much appreciate it!

i'll go get some sand paper and start trying out the F+B. i have a dremel, but never used the felt tip and polishing compound :p great opportunity to try it :)

i'll also consider goldenloki to examine my gun. thanks a lot again!
 
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