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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a few Failures to extract, as in empy casing just sat in the chamber, also had a few stovepipes. Extractor looks good and works while hand cycling so not sure. Also noticed some brass were on top of the slide, basically upward ejecting.


7.62FMJ
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It also has undergone standard F&B, feed ramp polish, etc. Feeding FMJ UMC brass cased Remington ammo.

Extractor issue?
 

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...just sitting in chamber?
did the slide go all the way back and try to pick up next round? If not, that might be limp wristing. a rough chamber would contribute or any drag friction in the slide.

The failure I had and a lot others had was the spent case will get caught on the mouth of the next round, the slide pulls away from spent case rim and then slide travels to pick up next round and jams up.

This type of problem has been corrected on many others by the Flyer Hood Mood. this allows more clearance in the upper chamber so not to force the spent case down as much as the barrel requires when it tilts down during recoil. You might also notice the mouth of sent cases that do extract have a dent ("D" shaped mouth)

However I took a different approach by not letting barrel tip down as much during recoil.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
JFB said:
...just sitting in chamber?
did the slide go all the way back and try to pick up next round?  If not, that might be limp wristing.  a rough chamber would contribute or any drag friction in the slide.

The failure I had and a lot others had was the spent case will get caught on the mouth of the next round, the slide pulls away from spent case rim and then slide travels to pick up next round and jams up.

This type of problem has been corrected on many others by the Flyer Hood Mood.  this allows more clearance in the upper chamber so not to force the spent case down as much as the barrel requires when it tilts down during recoil.  You might also notice the mouth of sent cases that do extract have a dent ("D" shaped mouth)  

However I took a different approach by not letting barrel tip down as much during recoil.

Yes mine has the D indentation on the the spent casings. What causes this and what is "Flyer Hood Mood"?

7.62FMJ
 

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Check to make sure your ejector is still in place. Mine fell out during the first cleaning and when I put it back together it acted the same way. :-[
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Extractor is fine, everything is fine, the pistol jams, dents cases, etc.

What is the Flyer Hood Mod? I did a search but found no pictures of this mod. I polished the chamber last night but not sure what else to do.

These are such cool little pistols- when they run. I had sold a Beretta TomCat .32 to get the P3AT- the TomCat never jammed, not once, in thousands of rounds. Wish my P3AT could do the same because I like it more.

7.62FMJ
 

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7.62FMJ said:
What is the Flyer Hood Mod? I did a search but found no pictures of this mod. I polished the chamber last night but not sure what else to do.
Searching on KTOG isn't perfect but you should be able to do better than that. I only say that so you can try again as there is A LOT of info about it out there. I personally have posted about it with those words. Here is a picture of what I did to #3 to make it work just right:


-Scott
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So what is the actual Mod because I'm not that versed on what areas to polish. I also have been getting dented ejected case mouths and brass markings on the top of the slide for some reason.

7.62
 

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7.62FMJ said:
Extractor is fine, everything is fine, the pistol jams, dents cases, etc.

What is the Flyer Hood Mod? I did a search but found no pictures of this mod. I polished the chamber last night but not sure what else to do.

These are such cool little pistols- when they run. I had sold a Beretta TomCat .32 to get the P3AT- the TomCat never jammed, not once, in thousands of rounds. Wish my P3AT could do the same because I like it more.

7.62FMJ
Badman was refering to the ejector not the extractor. Part number 115.
 

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7.62FMJ said:
So what is the actual Mod because I'm not that versed on what areas to polish. I also have been getting dented ejected case mouths and brass markings on the top of the slide for some reason.

7.62
It's funny because once you see it you will not believe how obvious it was :) Take a look at the "hood." Look straight down the barrel and then up slightly to the top. Notice how the left side and the right side of the crescent are not the same? The right side has been filed off to allow the brass to come out easier. It files nicely. Keep the countours the same and do a little at a time and test a lot.

-Scott
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The hood on mine already looks like that, the right is flat where the left side dips down. I also found out that the screw holding the extractor spring in was loose, so I added some locktight and made sure it was tensioned correctly. I think all my problems will be fixed now and appreciate the pics with info. I did some more polishing on the hood area and chamber to get it more polished out. I am hoping all is well but won't find out till tomorrow.

7.62FMJ
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
7.62FMJ said:
...that the screw holding the extractor spring in was loose, so I added some locktight and made sure it was tensioned correctly.....

7.62FMJ
7.62... That screw also keeps the firing pin from flying out the azz end of the slide.

I was told on this board that the correct way to install that screw on a 2nd gen 3at was to add a drop of med. locktite under the head of the screw and then snug the screw down. You don't want locktite in the firing pin chamber.

The lenght of the screw is set to rest in the slot at the back of the firing pin.

Maybe others here will help me clarify how to set that screw.
 

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Nu_Agin_Shooter said:
...how to set that screw.
For the 2G, the physical lenght of the screw determines the clearance to the flat on the firing pin (and the interferance to the body, so FP doesn't fly out). Therefore the head of the screw must be down tight to compress the extractor's leaf spring. the amount of torque that will yield a steel alloy 6-32 threaded screw is some where over 15 in-lbs depending on its composition and harding. If it needs adjusting, a file or new screw is needed.



For a 1G, the extractor is held in with roll pin and the screw for the firing pin retention has to be adjusted to provide the clearance to the FP flat.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
JFB said:
....  the amount of torque that will yield a steel alloy 6-32 threaded screw is some where over 15 in-lbs depending on its composition and harding. ...

JFB ... your knowledge of the details amzes me!
 

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JFB-I have been watching this thread with interest, especially the part about flattened case mouths. Some of my cases exhibit this and others don't. I'd have to guess less than 20% are flattened. What I can say is that my handloads don't flatten the case mouths even that much, and they don't fly half as far as the factory as a rule. The chronograph results show they are faster than factory with the Rem Golden Saber 102gr bullet, 887av vs 847av, as published in Am Rifleman article. My 115gr FMJ loads don't flatten at all, 807av fps.

To what do you attribute the flattening?
 

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vaguru said:
To what do you attribute the flattening?
Spent case is smacking the barrel hood on the way out.  See Flyer Barrel Hood Mod on previous page and then do a search for same.

Essentially, the bottom outward edge of the barrel hood is angled with a sharp edge.  Removal of that sharp edge can give an extra bit of clearance.  Just break that bottom, sharp edge with a needle file and smooth with 400-800 grit paper.  DO NOT REMOVE any metal that will affect lockup, just that sharp, lower edge.  Go conservatively.  You can remove more later if necessary.


Wilson said:
I’ve done minor Flyer hood mods on several of my P-3AT with good results but don’t over do it, just incase you have to send it in for warranty work. Below are SG barrels, with an unmodified one in the middle. I wouldn’t modify beyond this point if it were me, which it was :)

The picture is a bit deceiving, as the angle of the camera exaggerates the amount of metal removed.



Wilson – who’s crossing his finger for T-RO
 
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