F&B or not F&B on parkerized

Discussion in 'P-3AT' started by brian82, Sep 18, 2009.

  1. brian82

    brian82 New Member

    5
    Sep 8, 2009
    Hi Guys,

    I have not yet fired my new P3AT, since I will have time to go to the range 'till next week.
    That said, do you think I should do the f&b on it?
    I confirmed that the model I have was manufactured July 2008, and it does not have the newest hammer block. I have seen that the newest ones made a few months ago come pretty much ready and the f&b does not need to be done, but since mine is from last year I would think it needs it.
    Thing is, do I do it as any other blued one? Since the parkerized finish is on all or most of the metal, including barrel, slide, etc.
    If I do the f&b would I damage this finish?

    Thanks a lot ;)
     
  2. JFB

    JFB New Member

    Jul 25, 2005
    recomend a field strip (including magazine) so to inspect for any machining (mold) burrs (flashing) that would be best removed.
    After cleaning to remove any possible machining chips and abrasive derbi, then lubrication sufficeiently to your satisfaction which should include the rails, the hammer face and the barrel lug BEFORE shooting

    remember
    clean, lube, shoot. then repeat ;)
     

  3. brian82

    brian82 New Member

    5
    Sep 8, 2009
    So you dont recommed f&B, just to check for mayor burrs ::)
     
  4. rcmodel

    rcmodel New Member

    Feb 6, 2005
    Eastern Kansas
    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

    Shoot a couple four of boxs of ammo before you do anything and see if there are any function problems a F&B might help.

    F&B is just accelerated wear in all the wrong places really.

    You will have a better gun if you let the parts wear in to each other naturally during break-in shooting. Thay will only wear where they need to wear.

    rc
     
  5. GoldenLoki

    GoldenLoki New Member

    840
    Dec 6, 2008
    A Kel-Tec with a properly done F&B will always be better than the same gun without the F&B.

    The steel slide will wear the aluminum frame quickly if it has any roughness to it at all. That is why you want to smooth the steel rails.

    The firing pin hole will never wear a slight chamfer by itself to prevent accumulation of debris. You have to put it there.

    You can quickly polish the breech face, hammer slide, feed ramp, and chamber to a level beyond where it will ever wear naturally. (this aids feeding and extraction)

    There are other benefits, but if the above isn't enough to sway you then you will not be persuaded by other more subtle benefits.

    As far as your original concern of harming the finish... the areas you polish don't show and should be lightly lubricated.

    In the interest of full disclosure, I have been accused of being biased on the topic of F&B. ;)

    GL
     
  6. JFB

    JFB New Member

    Jul 25, 2005
    Is that chamfer on the Breach face? (ie where the primer crater will be) :-?
     
  7. GoldenLoki

    GoldenLoki New Member

    840
    Dec 6, 2008
    Is that chamfer on the Breach face?  (ie where the primer crater will be)  :-?
    [/quote]

    Yes.

    GL
     
  8. JFB

    JFB New Member

    Jul 25, 2005
    Thanks, It has been years since I read your DIY. I also just corrected the link to it in the FAQ/VIP sticky
     
  9. GoldenLoki

    GoldenLoki New Member

    840
    Dec 6, 2008
    Thanks, I appreciate it [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

    GL
     
  10. brian82

    brian82 New Member

    5
    Sep 8, 2009
    Thanks a lot guys, I will inspect it closely, especially the rails to see if there are any rough spots, if so, I will sand them down.

    Thanks again,