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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey gang , I recently purchased a p11 for spring/ summer concealed carry. I did notice the slide is difficult to rack, so I took it all apart. I did a really good fluff and buff, to no avail. Slide is still very hard to rack. Any suggestions, or is that normal ? Thank u.
 

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if the gun works, its probably normal. If it were too hard, the recoil from shooting wouldn't be able to cycle the gun.

If its only the first round, is it just as hard on a mag with 1-2 in it as a fully loaded one? Is it hard to rack with mag removed? With empty mag?
 

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A fairly stiff double spring recoil set up is required on these small pistols to prevent the action from opening too soon. This makes the slide somewhat difficult to rack. But as you shoot it in, putting a couple of hundred rounds through the pistol to break it in, racking the slide will become a little easier. There are also several good techniques to help with slide racking. Don't try to pull the slide back with a couple of fingers. Instead, place the non shooting hand over the slide and grasp it firmly. Then, gripping the pistol normally with the shooting hand, push the grip forward. You will find this much easier to manipulate the slide this way. Be sure to lubricate the pistol properly as well, using a thin coating of grease (not oil) on the rails and other areas where metal slides against metal. This will help the action as well.
 

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Hey gang , I recently purchased a p11 for spring/ summer concealed carry. I did notice the slide is difficult to rack, so I took it all apart. I did a really good fluff and buff, to no avail. Slide is still very hard to rack. Any suggestions, or is that normal ? Thank u.
Welcome to the KTOG forum. Congratulations on your new P-11. I think it is my favorite of all the KelTec pistols. Have you shot it yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes I've been to my local outdoor range several times. To answer jonnin, it's just as difficult to rack in every way you've asked. I also did a complete cleaning and lube job on the weapon. I also shoot a S&W sd9ve it's much easier to rack that slide. Anyway, I'll try again tmrw at the range. I just picked up a new magazine and Pearce grip extensions for my mags. Thanks for all ur help.
 

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Yes I've been to my local outdoor range several times. To answer jonnin, it's just as difficult to rack in every way you've asked. I also did a complete cleaning and lube job on the weapon. I also shoot a S&W sd9ve it's much easier to rack that slide. Anyway, I'll try again tmrw at the range. I just picked up a new magazine and Pearce grip extensions for my mags. Thanks for all ur help.
If it works and its "difficult" to rack when the mag is out, its a combination of new springs and the gun's design. It will get a bit easier after break in but there are limits to how light it will go.

That S&W is 2 inches longer than the kel tec. Bigger guns tend to be easier to handle all around; you can cock a 1911 with almost no force at all (assuming the hammer is back properly before the attempt).

You can clean it fit for brain surgery and polish it until its a mirror and it won't do a darn thing for your 15 pound recoil spring or whatever it is. Take the spring out and put it back together and see if that is effortless. If so, its just the spring.
 

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I've got a PF-9 and a P-11, and the P-11 is tougher to *start* moving out of battery--
especially with a round in chamber.

I can ease the slide on PF-9 back a few millimeters and see a round is chambered,
but that P-11--hoooey, it's pretty much all or nothing. She's either coming ALL
the way back (and ejecting the chambered round) of she ain't budging.

The P-11 has a much stouter hammer spring, and the hammer rests against the
slide...so I'm guessing this is just a trait of the beast.
 

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^^^
Not really a fan of the design because of that. Either the hammer should be pulled by the trigger only, and have no slide interaction, or the slide should cock it (making a light short trigger pull, an internal 1911ish setup). But they didn't ask me :)
 

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^^^
Not really a fan of the design because of that. Either the hammer should be pulled by the trigger only, and have no slide interaction
That would be an interesting design. Possible with a striker system, but with a hammer?
 

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That would be an interesting design. Possible with a striker system, but with a hammer?
I think Taurus has both on a couple of their pistolas.
The trigger is partially pre-cocked but if the chambered round fails to fire the next trigger pull is a long, true double-action pull. No, I don't know how they accomplish it.
 

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I think Taurus has both on a couple of their pistolas.
The trigger is partially pre-cocked but if the chambered round fails to fire the next trigger pull is a long, true double-action pull. No, I don't know how they accomplish it.
Sig has the DAK system too, but as you said, they are pre- or partially cocked actions, not true DAO systems. Be difficult to design a hammer and firing pin design that the slide and bolt face are aligned with the hammer, but the slide doesn't engage the hammer in recoil.
 

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Yes, the Taurus design is pretty cool.
It would be hard to do it with a true DAO for sure. Its probably possible -- disengage the hammer spring when the slide goes back -- but more parts/expense and getting it reliable would take $$ too. The nano does it as a true dao & striker combo, as someone said.
 

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Try pulling the slide back on a P40.
 

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It may simply be that the P11 is not right for you. That's not a dig at you or at the pistol, simply that it's not exactly what you want or need. After giving it an honest evaluation, don't hesitate to move on to another one. If that's your choice, I hope you get a good price or trade for the P11, AND quickly find the RIGHT pistol for you. :)
 

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It may simply be that the P11 is not right for you. That's not a dig at you or at the pistol, simply that it's not exactly what you want or need. After giving it an honest evaluation, don't hesitate to move on to another one. If that's your choice, I hope you get a good price or trade for the P11, AND quickly find the RIGHT pistol for you. :)
Ditto, and although we may not always have the opportunity to shoot before we buy, we almost always have the ability to handle and rack the slide.
 

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Ditto, and although we may not always have the opportunity to shoot before we buy, we almost always have the ability to handle and rack the slide.
Except that racking the slide on any gun is usually more difficult with a full magazine. And I have yet to find a store to let me try it.. :confused:
 

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no one said it but you could use the alternative racking method. Put one hand on the grip of the pistol and one on the slide. Then like crossing your arms, push instead of pull. You can get a lot more force this way, you need to stand 90 degrees to your downrange and point it appropriately when doing this.
 

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Except that racking the slide on any gun is usually more difficult with a full magazine. And I have yet to find a store to let me try it.. :confused:
True, I suppose, but I've never seen so much difference caused by the friction of a case against the bottom of the bolt that the force needed w/o the magazine wouldn't be a warning sign. If there is no other choice but to buy and keep that weapon, then I would suggest racking the slide before inserting the magazine.

P.S. Although I have exceptional upper body strength, even with my age and illnesses, and haven't met the slide I couldn't rack, I would suppose that if I had the problem I might invest in and carry my own snap caps when shopping a pistol.
 
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