[patriot07]

I am new to this board. I've been reading things for awhile and finally decided to join. I just got my CHL about 2 months ago, and I picked up a 3AT asap, parkerized with the blue frame.

I am having trouble with FTE's. I was having them about once every clip but really worked on not limpwristing and I've got it down to about once every other clip, so I think it's time to send it in to Kel Tec. However, I really want Jack's electroplating job asap as well. Should I send it off to Kel Tec first or go ahead and get Jack to plate it?

Also, does Jack's nickel plating void the warranty or will Kel Tec still work on it?

 

[adamsesq]

Do NOT send anything to Jack until it is working perfect. KT will still work on it and render warranty repair as necessary, but many times they are more inclined to replace rather than repair.

If you send it to Jack first and then KT you may just get a new blue slide back. You might also get a new HC slide back. But I wouldn't take my chances.

-Scott

 

[rjhauser]

IMO, never send a handgun to be modified BEFORE getting it working right.

waste of $$, all KT is obligated to do is replace it with that it came with.

some here have got HC back, some have gotten blued or parked back....

no definitive answer...

sorry

 

[Guest]

IMO, never send a handgun to be modified BEFORE getting it working right.

waste of $$, all KT is obligated to do is replace it with that it came with.

some here have got HC back, some have gotten blued or parked back....

no definitive answer...

sorry

+10 on that , been there done that sh-t!!!

 

[Packer]

Hi patriot07. Welcome to KTOG. If working on LW cut your malfunctions--That may BE the cause of your problems:

Tips for locking your wrist:

TWO HANDED:

1. Place strong hand on grip with finger alongside trigger guard.
2. Cup weak hand as if you were going to drink water from it.
3. Rotate weak hand 45 degrees toward your body.
4. Place palm against front of strong hand fingers, with thumbs nearly parallel.
5. Line up on target and push forward with strong hand while pulling back with weak hand.
This will lock your wrist and prevent limp wristing.

SINGLE HAND GRIP:

1. Line up on target.
2. strain hand forward as if you were trying to get the gun closer to the target.

SHOOTING FROM THE HIP

To shoot from close in with one hand, do the same straining forward, but lock your elbow so the hand can't actually GET forward. This works from 90 degrees or even from the hip--By tensing your arm muscles. You should practice both.

If you still have FTEs while shooting with a VERY firm push-pull grip then it's the gun.

How's your button head screw for tightness? Try to tighten it.

You might want to finish the break-in 200 rounds before you consider sending it back.

Jack charges more to NP a Parkerized slide. It does not void the warranty, but if your slide needs replaced, they need only replace it with Parkerized.

Packer.

 

[TxCajun]

What everyone else said!

FTEs?
1. Button-head extractor screw is tight?
2. Check the extractor for debris, chips, etc.
3. Also consider trying the barrel hood mod. Basically, relieve the sharp, lower edge of the barrel hood. If you do a search in this forum, you'll find details and maybe some pics.

 

[patriot07]

Wow, that was alot of advice really quick. I'll be sure and go shoot it once more with a very firm push-pull grip and see how it does. I had never found a good description like that before, so thanks.

For some reason, either mine didn't come with a wrench for the button head screw or I've lost it, so I may have to call KT about that one.

My extractor looks to be in good shape and clean, so I don't think that's an issue. I will look into the barrel hood mod tonight.

Does anyone have any opinions about the durability of jacks' np?

 

[TxCajun]

For some reason, either mine didn't come with a wrench for the button head screw or I've lost it, so I may have to call KT about that one.

2 mm, I believe.

 

[patriot07]

Yes it is exactly, I just took the toolbox out and tightened it a bit. I was under the assumption, maybe from reading somewhere, that they came with a wrench, but I had a 2mm on hand.

It was snug, but it did take one full turn fairly easily, and another quarter to half turn to really snug it up. That could've been part of the issue. With that and the addition of better instructions on how to cure limpwristing, maybe I do have a fine gun on my hands. Hopefully I can get to the range before the end of the week and give a report.

 

[wyo-man]

Might want to put a small bit of Blue Loctite on the button head end of the screw. Will keep it from loosening again.

wyo-man

 

[patriot07]

Might want to put a small bit of Blue Loctite on the button head end of the screw. Will keep it from loosening again.

wyo-man

Will do, good call, thanks.

 

[JFB]

The lenght of that 5/64" (2mm) allen head also retains the firing pin. there is a notch in thecenter of that pin the tip of that screw fits. A little more than one turn loose and the firing pin could have came out the slide

Now that you have tightened the allen head, if the lenght is too long, or you force it deeper, the tip of the screw will be tight against the notch in the firing pin binding it.

You can check with the slide off and using the recoil rod to push the pin in. It should have a slight spring force resistance when you push it in, but come back out freely.

the button head allen must be tight to secure the extractor, so if it is too long for firing pin, it will take a very little touch with a file

 

[Packer]

  The best way to put the Loctite on that screw without disturbing the firing pin:

1. Do NOT remove the slide.
2. Dry fire and leave the hammer down. (Once won't hurt it.)
3. The hammer will hold the FP in place.
4. Back screw almost all the way out.
5 With a toothpick, apply a very tiny drop of blue Loctite on the threads just under the button head.
6. Tighten screw as tight as it will go.
7. Remove slide and push on firing pin to make sure it moves freely.
8. Move hammer back to 1/2 cock position or slide will not go onto frame.

Packer.

 

[Guest]

patriot... Glad to have you here.


Sounds like many good suggestions already posted. I do not think you will need to send it home, just shoot some more, maybe the hood polish if you still have FTE's after a better break in.

If you have not already done so, I would consider the fluff and buff, good clean and lube.


Some good links to check out:
golden loki fluff and buff

http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm

http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep2.htm


new gun prep
http://1bad69.com/keltec/newgunprep.htm

dissasembly
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/disassembly.htm

lubrication hints/tips
http://www.ktog.org/tecwerks1.htm#Lubrication

Regarding the parked slide that you want chromed. Have you considered trading the parked slide for a blue, then chrome the blue one?

I, for one would be glad to swap you a blue for the parked. I would hate to see a good park job get sand blasted.

If you are interested PM me. I can send you a blue slide to inspect, then send it or the parked slide back.

 

[adamsesq]

One thing I have learned is to promptly throw away any allen wrenches that come with KT guns (or most any other items for that matter) and use only quality (craftsman, snap-on, etc.) allen wrenches. Especially in these small sizes it is amazing how much less you will strip screws using good hardened tools. A decent set of small wrenches is less than $20.00 and will save you hours of aggravation.

-Scott

 

[Packer]

+1 but two points:

1. NO wrench is supplied with the P3AT--They DO come with the PF9.

2. The new button head screws are hardened now and do not easily strip.

Packer.

 

[Wilson]

PKTTA members always keep their failure-to-extract kit with them at all times, especially when heading to the range with a new second-generation P-3AT. As shown below, it consists of a finger extension for better control (also aids in limpwristing) and a 2mm hex driver (flat, not ball).

Wilson – who’s the first and only member of the Professional Kel-Tec Tinkers Association :

 

[TxCajun]

It was snug, but it did take one full turn fairly easily, and another quarter to half turn to really snug it up.

I believe we have seen these FTE when the screw was even tighter than that, as little as a half turn loose. Hopefully, that was the culprit. Fingers crossed.

 

[Connection]

To everyone that's applied the blue Locktite on their extractor screw, has anyone had their screw back out AFTER letting the Locktite set? I, personally, haven't but a common way to take Locktite'd parts apart is to apply heat to loosen it up. Just wondering if anyone subjected their pistols to repeated and/or rapid fire to the point the slide heated up enough to let the screw back out...

 

[TxCajun]

Locktited extractor screws have backed out.
A good idea is to put some marker on the screw head with a file, punch, etc, so a periodic visual inspection can show if it has moved.