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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first gun with any type of silencer and it’s “in jail” til the permit comes through. I can shoot it at the dealers range but breaking it down and cleaning it there is not feasible.

I feel like I should at least do something. Obviously I don’t want to risk damaging the baffles. Is there any problem at least running a bore snake through the barrel with a little solvent or something?
 

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Is this a permanently attached silencer?
If its the SUB, i assume so.
I like OTIS snakes.
I would be careful about a loosing a brush in the baffling, if that is possible.
I would stick to keeping it oiled with a rod and swab for now. But stay out of the baffles. You don't have place or time to work through any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is this a permanently attached silencer?
If its the SUB, i assume so.
I like OTIS snakes.
I would be careful about a loosing a brush in the baffling, if that is possible.
I would stick to keeping it oiled with a rod and swab for now. But stay outbof the baffles. You don't have place or time to work through any problems.
Yes, the SUB CQB - which is the 2k with integrated silencer. The SUB CQB has 4.25 inches of rifling in a 16 inch baffled barrel. So you say no snake. Oil the rifled portion of the barrel and leave the baffled portion alone? Thats exactly the info I'm looking for.
 

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That's what I would do. Don't lose the patch. I'd use a slotted patch holder only in the barrel.

I admit ignorance to the construction of the sub CQB so what follows is generic (mostly) can info' that I still didn't post before you cam back with your post above this. I doubt you can run that wet, but it was written, so I'm leaving it.

It will take lots of rounds through it before you should even think of cleaning it. A can actually works better slightly gunked up. If you use jacketed bullets you'll get very little of anything other than smoke residue on the baffles. Relax, long after you get it out of jail is the time to think about doing anything to it.

Now if you run cast and lubed bullets through it that is entirely different, but still, it'll take a mess of them before it'll need cleaning. And if your can is sealed DO NOT run cast and lubed bullets through it, I would stick to jacketed or fully encapsulated (plated) only.

I only oil mine 24+ hours before I want to clean the one can I have that comes apart. And then I don't use oil but Kroil. The rest only get bullets through them. They are said to self clean as they heat up. If your can doesn't come apart just leave it alone would be my advice. But check with the manufacturer too. They all have different recommendations. For instance, I have a 5.56 Surefire can that can be run wet (water). I mentioned that to someone and they were incredulous. They'd never heard of such a thing for such a high pressure round. But the manual clearly states to pour water in, let it drain and whatever remains is the right amount to use. Why would you want to run a wet can? It makes them even quieter. It's called using an ablative substance. That can uses water, but wire lube that electricians use can be used, there are more substances than I can remember. Gasoline, ketone, and similar things that ignite easily would be a very bad idea but I'd be willing to watch someone do that to their can if I was a sufficient distance away from the bomb.

But I have a question for you. How do you like it? It's a pretty nice concept. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
But I have a question for you. How do you like it? It's a pretty nice concept. (y)
Its a hoot! I shot a friend's regular sub 2k and couldn't believe how much I liked it. When this came out with the supressor and rotating cowl, I had to have one, and started hunting - waited several months until a couple came up on GB at prices that were only a tad unreasonable. First firearm I ever bought with no rationale except "that would be lots of fun" and it is. It works flawlessly so far and I'm pleasantly surprised that the trigger is actually pretty nice. I can't wait to get it out of jail and to an outside range.
 

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This is my first gun with any type of silencer and it’s “in jail” til the permit comes through. I can shoot it at the dealers range but breaking it down and cleaning it there is not feasible.

I feel like I should at least do something. Obviously I don’t want to risk damaging the baffles. Is there any problem at least running a bore snake through the barrel with a little solvent or something?
I took home my cqb and have run 200 rounds through it... super clean. But I run federal syntec in all my suppressed weapons. They have 147grain currently available on the federal website. Pretty reasonable prices too.
 

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This is my first gun with any type of silencer and it’s “in jail” til the permit comes through. I can shoot it at the dealers range but breaking it down and cleaning it there is not feasible.

I feel like I should at least do something. Obviously I don’t want to risk damaging the baffles. Is there any problem at least running a bore snake through the barrel with a little solvent or something?
I worry that the word “ silencer “ is starting to get general use instead of the correct name “
Suppressor “. I think Silencer is a media term that started in movies or TV. It gives the unknowing public the impression that it Silences the sound of a shooting gun, it doesn’t, but it suppresses the sound. I know it’s a small thing but we already have so many fights to keep our Second amendment rights I don’t want to give an inch. It’s the same way that people use the term “ Clip “ instead of the correct term magazine because there is a clip that is use as a Delivery mechanism for rounds into a gun. Just my two cents.
 

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I worry that the word “ silencer “ is starting to get general use instead of the correct name “
Suppressor “. I think Silencer is a media term that started in movies or TV. It gives the unknowing public the impression that it Silences the sound of a shooting gun, it doesn’t, but it suppresses the sound. I know it’s a small thing but we already have so many fights to keep our Second amendment rights I don’t want to give an inch. It’s the same way that people use the term “ Clip “ instead of the correct term magazine because there is a clip that is use as a Delivery mechanism for rounds into a gun. Just my two cents.
Suppressor is silencer. Even Hiram Maxim, the developer and patent holder of suppressors, used the term silencer in the patent. Everybody knows what you're talking about when using the term silencer or suppressor - no need to get wrapped around the axle about what it's called.

If anything, "silencer" is the more correct term, as that was what the patent was for. US1482805A - Silencer for guns - Google Patents
 
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This is my first gun with any type of silencer and it’s “in jail” til the permit comes through. I can shoot it at the dealers range but breaking it down and cleaning it there is not feasible.

I feel like I should at least do something. Obviously I don’t want to risk damaging the baffles. Is there any problem at least running a bore snake through the barrel with a little solvent or something?
I would strongly suggest against using a bore snake that has an embedded bronze/brass/metal brush in it. The baffles in the CQB are anodized aluminum, and the metal brushes can wear off the anodizing, which protects the aluminum from wear during shooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I worry that the word “ silencer “ is starting to get general use instead of the correct name “
Suppressor “.
I get that, but "suppressor" can refer to several things including flash suppressors, and "silencer" has become the more accepted term from what I can tell. Heck the leading vendor of these devices is the "Silencer Co." so I think that ship has already sailed.
 

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Technically, "suppressor" of "sound suppressor" is correct. Silencer is more a marketing term. That said, subsonic rounds from a locker-breech gun can indeed be silent. Supersonic bullets through a suppressor are significantly quieter, but the supersonic crack are still as loud as most .22s.
Aluminum baffles are usually found only in rimfire suppressors. Rimfire suppressors can usually be disassembled for cleaning and necessarily so - rimfire ammo is very dirty with loads of lube and lead to complement the combustion byproducts. If you don't clean them, they will eventually fill up with the gunk. Adding something like FireClean to the baffles helps prevent future fouling, but they must be cleaned regularly.
But Centerfire suppressors are frequently unitized - you can't take them apart. Firing high pressure loads keeps them clean, or at least clean enough, and prevents the fouling from filling the suppressor.
So quit picking the fly sh*t out of the pepper - the terms are used interchangeably in the shooting community and we all know what is meant.
Concentrating on the original question, the only answer is to clean the suppressor the way the manufacturer recommends. Period. Until you are as knowledgeable as the manufacturers, listen to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
But Centerfire suppressors are frequently unitized - you can't take them apart. Firing high pressure loads keeps them clean, or at least clean enough, and prevents the fouling from filling the suppressor.
I'm glad its not urgent to clean the suppressor. This one comes apart - it separates into 4 steel baffles and 11 aluminum baffles. But that's not something I'm going to fool with as long as its in jail.

The manufacturer (KelTec) recommends cleaning the suppressor every 500-1000 rounds. Its probably going to be a bit past that whenever I get it out but I won't sweat it. The threaded part of the barrel will probably get some attention, but after paying attention to this thread, no bore snake and nothing that will go into the baffled part and certainly nothing that could possibly scratch the coating.
 

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When you get it, take it apart to learn how it disassembles and reassembles. At this time, a good pre-emptive measure is to coat the baffles and threads with lube, preferably a silicone oil. Weld Kleen, FIREClean, of good old DOT5 brake fluid all work pretty well. You'll be able to wipe most of the fouling off with a rag and the suppressor will be easier to disassemble.
When you finally get around to cleaning the unit, be very careful with the aluminum baffles - they are easily damaged both physically and chemically. For the metal fouling and other crud that remains after wiping, I use a good powder solvent and a brush with PLASTIC bristles. Be absolutely sure the solvent has NO ammonia in it. For those stubborn deposits, I use an oak dowel cut on a 45 angle and polished. By carefully picking at the crud, it usually comes off easily. If it doesn't, so what? A few specks won't affect performance. I then re-coat the baffles with silicone oil and reassemble. 10 years of this and the suppressor (all baffles are aluminum) works like new and should for many years.
Unless the manufacturer says it's OK, do NOT use steel pins and a tumbler to clean the bafles. Nor an ultrasonic cleaner. Nor a sandblaster, even with baking soda as the medium. In addition to potentially damaging the baffles, you put small particles of lead into the air. And NEVER use the "Dip" solution to remove lead. Yes, it dissolves lead, but the lead is now water-soluble and an environmental problem. OK, it might not be a lot, but it is readily absorbed by organisms including kids, and there is no good way for ordinary folks to safely dispose of it.
One more thing - I started using the anti-seize lube (the same stuff I use on lug nuts) on the threads of the end caps and suppressor tube. Magic. But be careful if you torque the end caps to spec - any lube will result in an over-tightened end cap if you tighten to spec. Snug is good enough, but check occasionally until you get a feel for "enough."
Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in any products mentioned.
 

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Technically, "suppressor" of "sound suppressor" is correct. Silencer is more a marketing term. That said, subsonic rounds from a locker-breech gun can indeed be silent. Supersonic bullets through a suppressor are significantly quieter, but the supersonic crack are still as loud as most .22s.
Aluminum baffles are usually found only in rimfire suppressors. Rimfire suppressors can usually be disassembled for cleaning and necessarily so - rimfire ammo is very dirty with loads of lube and lead to complement the combustion byproducts. If you don't clean them, they will eventually fill up with the gunk. Adding something like FireClean to the baffles helps prevent future fouling, but they must be cleaned regularly.
But Centerfire suppressors are frequently unitized - you can't take them apart. Firing high pressure loads keeps them clean, or at least clean enough, and prevents the fouling from filling the suppressor.
So quit picking the fly sh*t out of the pepper - the terms are used interchangeably in the shooting community and we all know what is meant.
Concentrating on the original question, the only answer is to clean the suppressor the way the manufacturer recommends. Period. Until you are as knowledgeable as the manufacturers, listen to them.
"Silencer" is not a marketing term, nor did it originate in media. It is the term actually used in practically all the laws and paperwork. JM2C.
 

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Given what we know about the effectiveness of sound suppressors under various conditions, etc., why not be more precise? It wouldn't be the first time laws and regulations use obsolete and/or misinformed terminology. Ditto the public as well as those considered members of the cognoscenti.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I took home my cqb and have run 200 rounds through it... super clean. But I run federal syntec in all my suppressed weapons. They have 147grain currently available on the federal website. Pretty reasonable prices too.
Thanks. Just ordered couple of boxes to see how she likes them.
 
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