cleaning an unfired p3at

I would keep an oily rag handy and just wipe it down at the end of the day.  The slide and barrel is the only metal that is gonna be touching your skin that could rust.  If that doesn't work you can always have it plated.

Also, I have just started using the Miltec oil that is suppose to be the best thing since sliced bread. When put on per instructions it should cut down on the chances of rust over a long period of time but I aint used it enough to say it will. I also think this depends a lot on a persons PH or whatever. Some people couldn't make anything rust and some people can rust dirt.

 

The P3AT likes to have lube, grease and LOTS of it. Basically dripping in lube. Since you are not going to be able to keep it that way in your pocket more than a couple of weeks most around here recommend doing a basic clean/lube every couple of weeks.

-Scott

 

Hey lop, here in coastal NC its "Africa Hot" as well, very humid, etc,... Usually a quick wipe everyday with light oil, and a quick field strip and swab of the barrel everyother day doesn't take 5-10 minutes.

Since my wife says I have OCD, I clean and/or wipedown all my other pistols once a month.(Unless they go to the range).

Light oil works best and won't irritate the skin. But frequency helps. Also, I rotate my ammo and never forget the mag.

Keep cool.

 

Well, for me at least, good intentions tend to get sidestepped : That butt sweat can be pretty corrosive too ;D I've found that blued carry weapons are a never ending source of aggrevation and dissapointment. I had a blued PPK that I had Parkerized and it was great. Anymore, all my carry guns are either stainless, plated, milspec parkerized, or Duracoated . My P3AT is going to Sprinter for plating when I'm done whittling on it. I highly recommend a pocket holster as well to keep debris out of the gun.

David

 

I don't know for certain but I would think the nylon would dry out faster than leather.

 

Suggestions:

*Use Johnsons Paste Floor Wax on the slide and other parts to prevent rusting.
First clean all the old oil off the parts with rubbing alcohol.
Put it on thick let it dry, then put another coat on.
Leave it on, don't wipe it off, especially down in the slide grooves, etc where rust likes to get a foothold.
http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1186951151/1#1

*Keep the nylon holster and wash the salt out of it occasionally with cold water.

*Leather will absorb just as much sweat as nylon, but there is no way possible to get the salt out of it once it gets in it.

*Kydex holsters are completely sweat-proof.

*Wipe it down every day when you take it out of the holster, not once a week.

*Spray nylon holsters with Camp-Dry silicone waterproofing to ward off mosture absorbsion.

*MiliTec is one of the worst rust protectents of all available firearms lubes.

rcmodel

 

Using regular "gun oil" or even the high tech lubricants is not the best for wipe down. Two really good rust proofing oils are Brownells No Rust #2, and LPS heavy duty rust inhibitor #3.

Brownells is a light oil. I dampen a rag and keep it in a pickle jar so I can use it over and over. You just give the gun a quick wipe.

The LPS comes in a spray can unless you buy a gallon which is enough for 50 guys' lifetime. You spray it on a rag and then quickly wipe the parts or spray it directly on the parts. Set the gun aside to dry for a while. The solvents will evaporate leaving a wax like coating. wipe off the excess and the resulting film really protects without much mess.

Oh, and yes, you MUST use a pickle jar, LOL

David

 

Yabutt. You can soak the inside of the holster with gun oil and that would stop the salty sweat coming from the other side as I have heard that oil and water don't mix... Maybe Kevin can pipe in on whether this is or is not a property of leather.

-Scott

 

How about a piece of thin plastic (like from a gallon milk jug) that is shaped to the pocket. Keep it between you and the holster?

Bobo