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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
looking through some old posts and following links, it seems some of those amazon links are no longer available. I searched for something similar and came across these AR style rails.
The original post had the tacfun rail -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUXX6UN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



However, I am not sure if these will fit the ks7 handle due to what seems like the odd shape, eg, not uniform, design of the underside.

does anyone know if these latter styles will drop in and fit or are they just not suitable?
 

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Persinally i replaced mine long ago with the ksg rail. I wanted a sleek low profile keeping things light. No red dot jusy sturdy irons.
That being said. take a look at this guys products as he has designed them specifically for the carry handle

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Persinally i replaced mine long ago with the ksg rail. I wanted a sleek low profile keeping things light. No red dot jusy sturdy irons.
That being said. take a look at this guys products as he has designed them specifically for the carry handle

I had originally bought the top rail from brotac, took it out last weekend for the first time and the thing broke right off with the very first round of birdshot leaving my brand new optic in the sand before me. Talk about disappointing. I emailed and left a review and he promptly apologized and refunded me. He actually took down all his listings to make sure to test his stuff again.
 

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I shot ~50 mixed #8,#00, mini slugs/buck with BROTAC 5 shell saddle & side Offset Mount [OM1] made from grey PETG “cheaper” versions. They held up flawlessly. He then made Carbon Fiber versions and assumed they would be stronger since the material itself has much higher rating. I tested those and had same issues. So I remounted originals back on while I wait to evaluate redesigned CF versions.

We discussed maybe the stiffer infused carbon fiber might not allow recoil flex or vibrations. He is upset the CF didn’t live up to his expectations and will make it right.

On a side note: BALDR Mini laser/light mounted on its side on that OM1 flipped off its own slider mount every time I shot KS7. The printed CF OM1 worked. The Olight mount stayed on printed OM1. The Olight Baldr Mini itself flew off twice, each time flying over my head and landing on ground behind me. It has a QD lever and you can tighten it, but I didn’t bother as I was only using it to test CF OM1 as Baldr was heavier of 2 lights I brought. After 2nd launch, I mounted laser/light I intend on using in HD mode. It stayed on.

On a side side note: anyone have ideas to simulate recoil with drop tests? Werkz light bearing holsters uses a 3 ft drop and suggested that is more than any recoil weapon light would see on pistol. That got me thinking a similar controlled drop to evaluate recoil stresses. This would be easier, cheaper, & quicker than shooting at range. At least prove part survives that before range time.
 

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A drop test recoil simulator could be built with an aluminum bar or even a wood 2x4 that the mount can be bolted to.
Simply dropping to on a concrete floor would simulate recoil.
I'd probably put a rubber bumper on the end to limit unrealistic hard shock if aluminum was used.

To get deeper into it, the bar could be set up to allow adding or removing weights to match weight of a real gun to be tested.
To get lab level results, a bar or 2x4 could be mounted to a wall and the test bar set up to slide down the bar from different measured heights.
 

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So this is Werkz setup. It’s a sled in rail that controls drop. But what I’m searching for is a feet to G conversion. Also how many G’s KS7 recoil is. As mentioned before, they do pistol research so their setup is maybe 9mm in a pistol recoil replicator. Let’s say I drop KS7 on its butt pad from 2 ft; is that equal to standard #00 recoil? Or mount handle to wood sled (same idea). It’s the sudden stop that creates the G’s. Hitting ground creates far more G’s than human moving under recoil.

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Hi all,
looking through some old posts and following links, it seems some of those amazon links are no longer available. I searched for something similar and came across these AR style rails.
The original post had the tacfun rail -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUXX6UN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



However, I am not sure if these will fit the ks7 handle due to what seems like the odd shape, eg, not uniform, design of the underside.

does anyone know if these latter styles will drop in and fit or are they just not suitable?
Typical Amazon. Stuff doesn't hang around long with them. Here's another one that is identical to the one I posted originally - Black 20mm Carry Handle Mount Top See Thru Weaver Picatinny Rail Scope Mount | eBay. It's probably the same one under a different name.
 

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All of those “made for AR handle” mounts will raise scope/red dot really high when mounted on KS7 handle. Look thru picture thread and zoom in on the mount.
You will not have any cheek weld when using those AR mounts. So think about how you want to aim thru scope.
 

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All of those “made for AR handle” mounts will raise scope/red dot really high when mounted on KS7 handle. Look thru picture thread and zoom in on the mount.
You will not have any cheek weld when using those AR mounts. So think about how you want to aim thru scope.
Not true at all. The mount I posted puts most sights at the correct height provided you use a low sight base. I have a SeeAll tritium sight on my KS7 and it sits at the perfect eye height for me and my cheek is firmly on the stock.
 

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This is from the KS7 picture thread. Any 20mm high mount will poke out 11mm above the top of handle because the handle is only 8.6mm deep. Now everyone is different, but there is no way I could get a cheek weld with anything THAT high. I mean, I WAS going to get a 20mm rail, maybe even the one you posted link to, but I did not want my red dot mounted at that height. The positive about it is it provides 20mm of tunnel to look down handle in case scope failed as long as you can see past big screw poking up from floor of mount - could shorten screw to aid in that.

Another person bought a slick 1913 rail and just screwed it onto handle. This vastly lowers anything mounted but there is lots of drilling to be done and I imagine it is hard to keep perfectly level & centered. If fact his rail looks a few degrees off level. Plus this blocks any view down original handle in case scope fails (red dot battery dies, whatever)
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So my search for a KS7 solution resulted in the BROTAC mount which is still a work in progress. It is still MY favorite solution for what it offers without even mounting anything on it: it acts as a rear Ghost Ring Sight. I find it hard to see rear "ladder" sight and this aides in centering front sight inside the tunnel. But, hey, that is just how I like it.
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But let me offer this: shoot the KS7 with handle as is and see how it works and does not work. I find I have to get a REALLY firm cheek weld. From 25ft away, I was impressed with how the naked handle worked. Do I want a Red Dot up there? Yes I do, so I am beta testing new versions.
 

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This the way my KS7 is setup currently.







At that height, the SeeAll sight lines up perfectly with my eyes with my chin against the stock. Granted, I do have a 1/4" pad on the stock, but even with my chin pressing the pad all the way down, it's still at the right height where I do not need to lift my head. If I put a red dot on the same rail, my chin still touches the stock, just not as down low as with the SeeAll. The benefit of the SeeAll is it's tritium and fiber optic, so I never need to worry about batteries.

Those pics were taken just before the gun went back to Kel Tec last year. Got it back and it still doesn't run 100%. Strike 3, so it's getting gone soon. The SeeAll sight is staying. Its new home will be the KS7's replacement.
 

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Ok I See All that. (ha!)
Sorry about your KS7 and thanks for positively sharing ideas for others.
A few thoughts on what may help others with KS7:
1. A “jaw” weld ≠ a cheek weld. I experimented with a few scope setups that produced chin/jawline on stock. I didn’t feel comfortable with idea of shooting against my teeth.
2. That SeeAll seems lower than traditional Red Dots, listed at .58” high for rail mount so maybe that is 1/2 as tall as “normal” RD’s centerline dot??? That appears to help lower sight line to help with touching some part of head to stock. I like it’s concept and think it is a great option on 7’s handle. Very light.
3. That 20mm high mount is too high for anyone to place cheek on stock in traditional shotgun shooting mechanics. A very long conversation about if that is a necessary thing but I stand by original statement that any made for AR mount is sub-optimal for KS7.
-Can it work? Yes.
-Will it be a compromise? Yes.
-combined with made for AR scopes trying to “cowitness” AR iron sights and its too high for optimal KS7 handle usage. Again that SeeAll is an interesting non-standard height sight which aids keeping it low.

If I worked at K-T, I might have suggested the handle be designed to accept sights by allowing owners to install rail adapters via MLok slots down length of tunnel floor. Everyone would be happy. I pondered cutting out sides of tunnel over the grab area so I could mount a standard 1913 adapter. It would keep red dot lower and all would be good minus the part about hacking the handle.
 

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Ok I See All that. (ha!)
Sorry about your KS7 and thanks for positively sharing ideas for others.
A few thoughts on what may help others with KS7:
1. A “jaw” weld ≠ a cheek weld. I experimented with a few scope setups that produced chin/jawline on stock. I didn’t feel comfortable with idea of shooting against my teeth.
2. That SeeAll seems lower than traditional Red Dots, listed at .58” high for rail mount so maybe that is 1/2 as tall as “normal” RD’s centerline dot??? That appears to help lower sight line to help with touching some part of head to stock. I like it’s concept and think it is a great option on 7’s handle. Very light.
3. That 20mm high mount is too high for anyone to place cheek on stock in traditional shotgun shooting mechanics. A very long conversation about if that is a necessary thing but I stand by original statement that any made for AR mount is sub-optimal for KS7.
-Can it work? Yes.
-Will it be a compromise? Yes.
-combined with made for AR scopes trying to “cowitness” AR iron sights and its too high for optimal KS7 handle usage. Again that SeeAll is an interesting non-standard height sight which aids keeping it low.

If I worked at K-T, I might have suggested the handle be designed to accept sights by allowing owners to install rail adapters via MLok slots down length of tunnel floor. Everyone would be happy. I pondered cutting out sides of tunnel over the grab area so I could mount a standard 1913 adapter. It would keep red dot lower and all would be good minus the part about hacking the handle.
Have you actually tried the mount? Also, remember, this is a shotgun, not a rifle. You don't need to mash your head down to get a quick and repeatable sight picture. I get enough contact to get the gun on target and I'm able to make fast follow-up shots. Having a severe astigmatism I can't use most red dot sights. Green dots are OK, but the dot is still blurry. Not a problem with a shotgun, but not what I wanted. The carry handle puts a prism sight too far forward for my tastes, and using a cantilevered mount raises up too much. My options were a reflex sight with a green dot or the SeeAll. The SeeAll is always ready, and it works great as a shotgun sight. I also use one as an offset sight on a lot of my rifles.

I could have replaced the carry handle with a rail. but I don't like the way the gun looks without it. So once I had a workable sight solution, I left it as is. Too bad the gun doesn't run reliably. It's a cool looking gun, and it would make a great HD shotgun, if it worked.
 

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It's probably been discussed here, but possibly the best option is the Tanner mount for the KS7.


I assume risers can be used to raise a sight to whatever level you need.
I like the idea of the compact size.
 

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