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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok Guys got my new never fired P3AT so what's next step could someone take me through the breakin procedure, cleaning lubrication ammo disassembly. I want it all! Just want to make sure it's road worthy after everything completed. Thanks

Tom
 

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Take it to the range and beat the H out of it. I have about 600 rounds through both of mine and I am just now comfortable with them being road worthy. It takes a couple hundred rounds and a few different types of ammo to figure out what your gun likes to eat.

Cheers.
 

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Clean and lube it FIRST!

http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/care2.htm

Make sure you are using decent quality BRASS-cased ammo. You may have issues when it gets dirty, especially during breakin (1st 200-300 rounds). A cursory cleaning and re-lube may help if you shoot more than 50-100 rounds and start to experience problems. This is NOT a range gun or target pistol designed for extended shooting. It is designed to be ultra-light and small and to flawlessly fire off a couple of mags to get your butt out of a jam if need be.

Keep your wrists locked and pivot at the elbow. This little hand cannon can be limpwristed which will cause FTE. Also, make sure you allow the trigger to reset fully forward or you will get light strikes (FTF). I'd suggest you press the mag release button when you INSERT your mags as the mag catch is polymer and can be degraded by the steel cutout in the mag tube. Have fun and let us know how it goes.
 

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After cleaning and lubing as above I hand cycle the action of the empty gun a couple of hundred times before I take it out to shoot it to help it wear in. I will then shoot it a minimum of 200 rounds with good quality practice ammo before I consider using it for self defense. When the gun is reliable with cheaper practice ammo be sure to fire at least 40 to 60 rounds of your carry ammo before trusting your life to it.
 

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I would also suggest you periodically check the tightness of the buttonhead extractor screw. Sometimes these have been known to work loose. As a precaution you could apply some blue or purple loctite, or you could wait until you experience FTE to do this.

But as TxC suggested, clean and lube first. If nothing at all, cleaning the weapon will help you to be more familiar with it.
 
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Welcome Curt.......

Follow the link posted by TxCajun... and do the fluff and buff FIRST.

Then like Tx says...clean and lube after the first box or two.


Have fun...  and please report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
KelTekCajun said:
I would also suggest you periodically check the tightness of the buttonhead extractor screw.  Sometimes these have been known to work loose.  As a precaution you could apply some blue or purple loctite, or you could wait until you experience FTE to do this.  

But as TxC suggested, clean and lube first.  If nothing at all, cleaning the weapon will help you to be more familiar with it.  

Thanks! KelTekCajun say could you take me through the proper cleaning and lubeercation process, thought someone said just clean and lube the barrel also heard that the P3AT is a little tricky to disassemble. Might have to choose something other then the DPX stuff 200-300 rounds of that stuff would break me seems like the price has gone through the roof.
>:(   Thanks

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Say I understand the disassembly is a little tricky with the P3AT is this true? anything I should look out for. And is there any other way to remove the assembly pin without using the rim of a case I just don't want to scratch the slide. And what do they mean when they say "push the barrel back while holding the slide" Just a little confused maybe you guys can give me your method of disassembly, and reassembly. Don't want to get this thing taken apart to lube it up before I take it to the range for the first time and have problems putting it back together correctly. Thanks!!

Tom
 

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It is easier to pull the assembly pin if you retract the slide just a tad. Keep pressure on the polymer grip around the assembly pin. I can pull mine with finger nails. YMMV.

Wilson uses a small, flat screwdriver with electrical tape round it to pad the slide and act as a fulcrum for levering out the pin.
 

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Things to watch out for. The ejector, part number 115, will take off for Florida at a dead run. Watch that little sucker.
 

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TxCajun said:
It is easier to pull the assembly pin if you retract the slide just a tad.  Keep pressure on the polymer grip around the assembly pin.  I can pull mine with finger nails.  YMMV.
does that take some tension off of the pin??

wish i'd read this before my first cleaning last weekend. wow that little sucker was hard to pry out. but it did eventaully pop out and after i dug the screwdriver outta my hand, break down and cleaning was academic.

TxCajun said:
Wilson uses a small, flat screwdriver with electrical tape round it to pad the slide and act as a fulcrum for levering out the pin.  
clever. i'll have to remember that. i used a cleaning patch around the head of the screwdriver to keep from scracthing the finish and stuff.
 

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TxCajun said:
Clean and lube it FIRST!

http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/care2.htm

Make sure you are using decent quality BRASS-cased ammo.  You may have issues when it gets dirty, especially during breakin (1st 200-300 rounds).  A cursory cleaning and re-lube may help if you shoot more than 50-100 rounds and start to experience problems. This is NOT a range gun or target pistol designed for extended shooting.  It is designed to be ultra-light and small and to flawlessly fire off a couple of mags to get your butt out of a jam if need be.

I'd recommend reading this again. This seems to be forgotten by many present....
 

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Curt32 said:
Say I understand the disassembly is a little tricky with the P3AT is this true? anything I should look out for. And is there any other way to remove the assembly pin without using the rim of a case I just don't want to scratch the slide. And what do they mean when they say "push the barrel back while holding the slide" Just a little confused maybe you guys can give me your method of disassembly, and reassembly.
Based on an idea that jocko sent me, I made a clamp that fits around the assembly pin, which holds the grip sides so that the retention spring will not pop out of it's slot, when you pull the assembly pin. it is very easy and quick to use it, and it frees up your hands to push the slide back a little so that the pin releases. Works like a champ!


 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Tex actually thanks to everyone that made suggestions you've really been a BIG HELP!! Going to tackle the disassembly tonight. Printing everything out this is really Great Stuff!

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
SnapCap said:
Based on an idea that jocko sent me, I made a clamp that fits around the assembly pin, which holds the grip sides so that the retention spring will not pop out of it's slot, when you pull the assembly pin.  it is very easy and quick to use it, and it frees up your hands to push the slide back a little so that the pin releases.  Works like a champ!


Hi SnapCap! say where did you get that clamp?? seems like somthing I might try and how easy is it for that spring to pop out boy I'm glad I didn't try this before I posted!

Tom
 
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