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That's upsetting to me as I just spent $100 on the mount - which is nuts for a mount. The majority of the commentary (written and video) I saw on the Midwest mount said it does maintain zero. So I'm totally with you when you say "I WANT this to work!" Not sure why zero-ing it in at 100 would or should be more effective than at 25 yds.
The Midwest Industries mount has a very long moment of inertia. And. it mounts to a small plastic location. Two strategies folks have used that work are 1. use the smallest, lightest sight possible and 2. build a backing plate or otherwise reinforce the plastic forend at the mloc slots. Folks have built backing plates which spread the load and reduce the damage very tight mloc fitment does to the tiny grab locations where the mloc nuts cut into the plastic.

Also, there is a Texas Company called Performance Services which offers stabilizers that secure the forend to the barrel in additional locations.
 

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After reading the discussion about the best way to mount a red dot, I bought the Mcarbo mount. I received it quickly even with the carona crap going on. The mount is well made and very easy to install. Sighted in today and it worked great. Only short coming is that when it's folded to the side it makes for a much wider package. This I can live with.

Pck
 

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Just something to check if the MI mount doesn't work, there should be no zeroing issues with it in my experience. But my experience is limited to only 2 of them (1 being mine).

Be sure both MLoks are fully engaged. It's easy to screw it up. Can you guess how I know this?

FWIW, I have a micro red dot on mine and have shot thousands of rounds through it without reinforcing anything.

One other thing, the instructions state to use a certain MLok slot and a cord to prevent the charging handle from screwing up the sight. I found with the sight I was using that if I used the next MLok over I could get rid of the cord and everything worked smoothly. It put the sight a bit further out toward the muzzle but so what? There are advantages to a "scout scope" sort of placement and I have to see a micro red dot that doesn't have infinite eye relief.

Regarding QD mounts and red dots. I also have at least one gun with a QD mount. It makes it easy to clean the gun w/o getting cleaner on the optics. I'm also ex-military and a gun is either clean or is in need of cleaning, nothing half way so my guns get cleaned often. The QD mount gets used frequently and put back in place. It too was used in competition and it always reattached and was always found to be zeroed. Or zeroed enough for shots out to 30 yards or so and close in A zone head shots.
 

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I have a RedLion rotating forend. It is a little bit pricey though (with rails). Deploying the gun is not that fast as you have to twist the nut to unlock it, rotate the forend then twist to lock.

Interestingly I recently saw a video that Kel-tec was introducing a new gun called SUB 2000 CQB which employs a rotating forend, the rotating mechanism is better designed though as they use a tab to lock/unlock the rotation.
 

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The Midwest Industries mount has a very long moment of inertia. And. it mounts to a small plastic location. Two strategies folks have used that work are 1. use the smallest, lightest sight possible and 2. build a backing plate or otherwise reinforce the plastic forend at the mloc slots. Folks have built backing plates which spread the load and reduce the damage very tight mloc fitment does to the tiny grab locations where the mloc nuts cut into the plastic.

Also, there is a Texas Company called Performance Services which offers stabilizers that secure the forend to the barrel in additional locations.
http://www.performanceservicesmachining.com/kel-tec-sub-2000-products/kel-tec-sub-2000-handguard-stabilizer/

That looks pretty useful - thanks for the link. I was thinking about using an M-Lok 45 degree mount, w/ a Picatinny 45 degree mount on top of that to mount a SIG Romeo 5 offset but vertical. Then mount a flashlight on the most forward left-hand slot to use w/ a thumb-press.

Looks like I'd lose the cheek weld if I offset the sight to the left. I could mount it straight horizontal on an AR riser off the right M-Lok slots which looks to give an excellent cheek weld but the gun is now ejecting up. Would have to offset the flashlight up to get my left thumb on it. Or I could do a 45 degree mount and rotate the gun 45 degrees instead of 90. Still putting the ejection port right in front of my eye. Hmmm.
 

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I was thinking about using an M-Lok 45 degree mount, w/ a Picatinny 45 degree mount on top of that to mount a SIG Romeo 5 offset but vertical.
If you do this ... understand that your 1) your point of aim becomes an imaginary position matching the horizontal offset of the optic v. barrel, or 2) your rifle will only match poi to poa at a single distance without doing math. We traditionally only have a vertical offset between optic and barrel. Since we are fighting gravity between the firearm and the target, vertical is something we are used to adjusting for with distance.

It won't matter at 15 yards, but you'll pull your hair out shooting 25 yards and 50 yards in the same day without that imaginary point of aim.
 

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Oh, I know. That's why offset optics aren't common. In addition to the vertical offset, I'd have a horizontal offset that would vary w/ distance. Given I wouldn't expect to engage a miscreant over 100 yds w/ this, it's an acceptable trade off.

I'm looking @ doing something similar w/ my planned upside down AR w/ binary trigger - offset red dot from the left side of the forend.
 

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I could not find a red dot that met my needs. So i was experimenting with laser light combos I settled on the Olight Baldr Pro 1350 lumin weapon light s/ green laser 150$ from amazon. The combo is perfect for this weapon and it allows unobstructed folding of the Sub2000. Since i want a compleate package I attached a kydex mag pouch to the left side of the barrel with 2 short MLok screws and place a 30 rnd mag in it this give me just shy of 50 rounds which is more than enough ammo to get me out of any situation that I encounter. Plus it is backpack portable.

I zero it at 25 yds and i can drive nails with it. I tried to attach photos but dont know if they uploaded.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I could not find a red dot that met my needs. So i was experimenting with laser light combos I settled on the Olight Baldr Pro 1350 lumin weapon light s/ green laser 150$ from amazon. The combo is perfect for this weapon and it allows unobstructed folding of the Sub2000. Since i want a compleate package I attached a kydex mag pouch to the left side of the barrel with 2 short MLok screws and place a 30 rnd mag in it this give me just shy of 50 rounds which is more than enough ammo to get me out of any situation that I encounter. Plus it is backpack portable.

I zero it at 25 yds and i can drive nails with it. I tried to attach photos but dont know if they uploaded.
That is very cool set up uccoper. I wish I thought of that. I would have saved $100. I bought a Sig Romeo red dot and a $100 swiveling Midwest mount.

How do you like external laser vs a red dot?
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Very cool uccoper. I wish I had thought of that. I would have saved $100 as my set up is a Sig Romeo 5 red dot for $125 and a swiveling Midwestern mount for $100.

How do you like the laser vs. a red dot?
 

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I work with both and each have their nich. I have worked mostly night shift so first and foremost I'm very partial to a weapon light red dot or laser neather are of any good go you if you cannot identify your target. I like the Baldr in my opinion it is the ultimate light 1350 lumins it can light up and I can identify a target at 100 yards with eather RD or laser I can put accurate rounds on target. It has a option to cut lumins in half whch works great with build searches the flash back wont blind you. Sorry im rambling back to your question light laser combo for short range under 50 yards or so. That will be the effective range for the Sub2000 and shotgun, not that they can't reach farther. But in a civilian setting it will be the max with few exceptions. Red dots i use on long guns with a seperate dedicated light. Currently on my M4 I run a Aim point PRO I have also ran with a EOTEC and have a seperate Streamlight dedicated weapon light with a pressure switch. My Benelli M1 has a fore end light and no optic or laser.

Your Sig Romeo is a awesome optic and fits the bill nicely. Train with all the optics that you can each has its pro and cons.

Good luck.
 

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Just posting agreement. The Baldr Pro works very well on the Sub. I run mine as a backup to the Top side micro red dot.

I've been able to sight with it at 50 yards indoors and at 25 yards in full sun.
 

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Hi all. I just purchased a new sub2k and I'm super pumped to get it.

What's the consensus on best red dot mounting strategy for the sub2k?
  • Is it mounted directly on top, which you remove when folding the bad boy? And if so, does it stay zero'd in / sighted when put back on?
  • Is it one of the angled mounts where the red dot is off to the side a bit? Are people happy with this approach? And are there any of these where the gun is able to folded and locked into place? Also is it better if this is mounted on the top rail or on the side with m-lok?
  • Is it one of the hinged mounts supplied by the likes of Midwest Industries or mccarbo? Those are awfully expensive. And do they stay firm when folded in place for usage?
Also, what are considered the best red dot / green dots for the money? Any highly rated budget red dots?

Thanks!
I bought a mini picatinny 30 degree offset for less than $10, and a Primary Arms Micro Red Dot $169 mounted on the offset. The carbine folds and locks completely. I simply twist the rifle to the side to acquire the target through the red dot, or, I can use the standard open sights. I got the idea from ARs with scopes on top and offset iron sights for close work. I'm happy with it.
 

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Just thought I'd follow up on my final set up - I got the Midwest Industries mount for $100 and have the Sig Romeo 5 red dot on it. Looks and feels awesome though won't know what its like to shoot with it until we've defeated this virus. Annoyed me that I had to fork over $100 for the optimal mount for this, but I took your perspective and look at as a value buy.
I bought the same set-up. Did you have any troubles installing the Midwest Industries mount? I bought my Sub 2000 a few months ago, and installing the MI mount was my first time trying to install an MLOK attachment. It was difficult, so a friend of mine, who has many guns, helped me with it. Even after his help, it doesn't seem to be mounted properly; the base of the mount is not fully parallel to the surface of the gun. The left side is slightly higher than the right.

When the gun is folded, this causes one end of the optic mount to graze the stock tube. I'll do 2 more posts so the site will let me include a link to a pic that shows what I'm talking about.
 

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A properly mounted MLOK should sit flush. I would loosen it back up and recheck that the mounting T bracket that the screw goes into comes all the way through the slot. Another thing to check is that there is nothing behind it that would push your adapter out as the screw is tightened.
 

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A properly mounted MLOK should sit flush. I would loosen it back up and recheck that the mounting T bracket that the screw goes into comes all the way through the slot. Another thing to check is that there is nothing behind it that would push your adapter out as the screw is tightened.
I'll check it again. It almost seems like the screws MI provided are too long. On my first attempt they reached and scratched the barrel. I thought that was because my install was wrong. Maybe not?
 
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