[kraigster414]

'Finally got a chance to get out to the range and re-test the Armalaser/P3AT G1 combo to see if a small application of blue Loctite to the  2 Allen head screws holding the bars in place would keep them tight and thus maintain POI (purple did not pass the 50-round test - now to be fair, you are most likely not going to expend 50 rounds in a gun fight with the P3AT but who said life is fair? .  At what point the screws started loosening with the purple Loctite, I am not sure - I only checked them after 50 rounds, so if you feel confident using the "less evasive" purple Loctite, 'certainly your call.  

But the big news is that after firing 50 rounds of the same ammo (Remington UMC), the blue Loctited screws remained tight.  I continue to use purple Loctite on the bottom screw.  

Even with the prone-to-strip Allen heads and blue Loctite applied to the threads, I believe you will be able to remove the screws when it's time to change batteries or clean the innards (by the way, I also use Rick's new lock washers).  If you are concedrned that you may strip the Allen heads out trying to unscrew them, you have the option of using the Phillips head screws that I am sure Rick will supply if asked.  Good idea too to keep a supply of extra Allen head and Phillips head screws on hand. Cosmetically, the Allen head screws look nicer on the gun (I think).

In short, I think the loose screws problem has been  solved.  The only loose screw now (according to my wife) is me.  ;D

PS:  For those you who may be thinking, "well, if blue Loctite is good, red has got to be better, no?"  Do NOT use Red Loctite.  Way overkill and you'll booger up the screws beyond recognition trying to get them out.

 

[fatman]

Kraigster 414 has once again shined a light into a dark corner. Many thanks for breaking trail for the rest of us.

 

[kraigster414]

Kraigster 414 has once again shined a light into a dark corner.  Many thanks for breaking trail for the rest of us.

My pleasure Wyatt.  Here's another tip for all the Armalaser owners out there - Rick of Armalser feel free to weigh-in.  

I have long had a question about the differences between various 1.5 and 1.55 volt "watch batteries."  The 357 and the EPX76 1.55 batteries for example are interchangeable in the Armalser.  I asked Eveready the other day to explain the difference is between the two (the EPX76 is a bit more expensive than the 357 and I wondered why).  Here's the reason:  the EPX76 has according to Eveready, 200mAH compared to only 150mAH for the 357 battery.  The higher capacity of the EPX76 makes for a little longer lasting battery.  So (and here's where I inviteRick  to chime in), if you want to reduce the frequency of having to open the unit to change batteries, it sounds like the EPX76 could be a better bet despite the increased cost.  How much of a longer life?  That's the question. I don't know.

On a related Armalaser topic, careful when cleaning your gun.  Watch that solvent, oil, etc. does not seap into the inside of the Armalaser.  It could temporarily short things out.

Enjoy,  I really like my Armalaser.  

Oh yeah...Fatman says he likes the look of the optional Philips head screws on his Armalaser.  Should my Allen head screws strip out (with the blue Loctite applied) when it comes time to removing them, I am going to the Phillips head screws too.  Small Allen head screws really are the Devil's work, I am convinced,  

 

[Bobo]

Tried purple locktite before previous trip to the range. Screws kept loosening.

Tried blue this time. Shot 83 rounds - didn't  loosen at all. Haven't tried to remove them to change batteries yet.

I also cut a notch with a coping saw on the barrel nut heads so I could get a flathead head screw driver on the barrel nuts.

 

[armalaser]

My pleasure Wyatt. Here's another tip for all the Armalaser owners out there - Rick of Armalser feel free to weigh-in.

I have long had a question about the differences between various 1.5 and 1.55 volt "watch batteries." The 357 and the EPX76 1.55 batteries for example are interchangeable in the Armalser. I asked Eveready the other day to explain the difference is between the two (the EPX76 is a bit more expensive than the 357 and I wondered why). Here's the reason: the EPX76 has according to Eveready, 200mAH compared to only 150mAH for the 357 battery. The higher capacity of the EPX76 makes for a little longer lasting battery. So (and here's where I inviteRick to chime in), if you want to reduce the frequency of having to open the unit to change batteries, it sounds like the EPX76 could be a better bet despite the increased cost. How much of a longer life? That's the question. I don't know.

On a related Armalaser topic, careful when cleaning your gun. Watch that solvent, oil, etc. does not seap into the inside of the Armalaser. It could temporarily short things out.

Enjoy, I really like my Armalaser.

Oh yeah...Fatman says he likes the look of the optional Philips head screws on his Armalaser. Should my Allen head screws strip out (with the blue Loctite applied) when it comes time to removing them, I am going to the Phillips head screws too. Small Allen head screws really are the Devil's work, I am convinced,

Hi all, I think Richard you are very right about this battery. The EPX76 is a good alternative to the V357. The ArmaLaser will work just as well with it as far as voltage is concerned and you should get about 30% more life out of them, theoretically. I think that most folks will be very happy with the regular V357 cells, but those that are willing t o pay a little more and you can find them in your area, the EPX76 is a good choice.