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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bummer: I get my HC back today and I proceed to attach my Armalaser.

Step 1. "drive the original plastic frame pin out using a small hammer and punch/nail or use the new steel pin supplied"

That pin did not want to come out after 20 minutes of using my punch then all of a sudden the tip of the frame cracks big time - I never touched it with the tools ???

Help - did anyone else encounter such a difficult time at driving the plastic pin through?

I had to remove it before returning it to KT for service. It wasn't easy the first time I attached it but this one wouldn't budge more than 1/8".

Wow - gotta send the frame back and hope it was a defective frame :eek:
 

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Michael, the pins indeed are tight but this never should have happened.  I had no problem driving out the KT grip pin with the Armalser pin and a bronze head hammer using a role of masking tape as a base.  I had a much harder time getting the KT pin back in when I removed the Armalser to install it on another P3AT.

Very sorry to hear this.  Bummer indeed. :'(
 

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I may be wrong, and hopefully rcmodel or someone more knowledgable will chime in, but I think the pin has to be driven out from a specific side. As in I think it has a slight taper to it, and will only come out in one dircetion. Not 100% on this though. The manual doesn't address this involved a disassemby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
3wbdriver said:
I may be wrong, and hopefully rcmodel or someone more knowledgable will chime in, but I think the pin has to be driven out from a specific side.  As in I think it has a slight taper to it, and will only come out in one dircetion.  Not 100% on this though.  The manual doesn't address this involved a disassemby.
Yes you are correct. The Armalaser shows it being pushed out from the right side (not the extractor side) in their diagram...that's what I did.
 

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  First, Were you driving the pin from the right side? Second, when you say the Frame cracked, Do you mean the polymer grip, or the aluminum frame? The frame is the part with the serial number on it.

  Whenever you have to drive pins out, it is important to have a very solid base. A roll of masking tape might work sometimes, but sometimes you need to have something a little more solid.

  It also helps to have your support sitting on a concrete floor or block--not a bouncy carpet. Driving the pin down into a large socket, or a hole drilled into a 2x4 can work well.

  If you bugger up or dimple the frame pin, it might be difficult to remove. best to have a punch nearly the same size as the pin.

  If it was the grip that cracked, KT will send you a new one. They might also send you an envelope to return the cracked one if they want it back.

  If it actually IS the aluminum frame, then the frame must have had a stress crack or something. Or, you might have had the punch tip on the frame itself. The whole pistol will have to go back. You don't have to reassemble it. They don't care if you ship them a box full of loose parts.
 
Packer.
 

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If you look at the assembly pins, they have a dimple on one end. Punch that end. I just use a blunted nail just smaller than the pin.

There's a pic of the ends of the pin here:

http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/disassembly.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Two Pistol Packer said:
  First, Were you driving the pin from the right side? Second, when you say the Frame cracked, Do you mean the polymer grip, or the aluminum frame? The frame is the part with the serial number on it.

  Whenever you have to drive pins out, it is important to have a very solid base. A roll of masking tape might work sometimes, but sometimes you need to have something a little more solid.

  It also helps to have your support sitting on a concrete floor or block--not a bouncy carpet. Driving the pin down into a large socket, or a hole drilled into a 2x4 can work well.

  If you bugger up or dimple the frame pin, it might be difficult to remove. best to have a punch nearly the same size as the pin.

  If it was the grip that cracked, KT will send you a new one. They might also send you an envelope to return the cracked one if they want it back.

  If it actually IS the aluminum frame, then the frame must have had a stress crack or something. Or, you might have had the punch tip on the frame itself. The whole pistol will have to go back. You don't have to reassemble it. They don't care if you ship them a box full of loose parts.
 
Packer.
Packer: I did tap it from the right side as shown in the Armalaser diagram (not the assembly pin side).

I had the roll of tape resting on a thin runner rug in my garage with concrete under it.

The crack is not the serial# end but the other tip near the tip of the barrel.

I used the same punch that removed the pin on my original frame when I first got the Armalaser.
 

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Nobody's questioning you Kwesi. We're just trying to figure out what may have gone wrong. I haven't had mine apart that far, so I just threw that out as a possibility. if you print this thread out to go with the gun on the return, KT may repair it for free, since it sounds like the pin may have just been in there too tight.

???
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
3wbdriver said:
Nobody's questioning you Kwesi.  We're just trying to figure out what may have gone wrong.  I haven't had mine apart that far, so I just threw that out as a possibility.  if you print this thread out to go with the gun on the return, KT may repair it for free, since it sounds like the pin may have just been in there too tight.

???
3w: didn't receive it as questioning. I just want to clearly and properly communicate. Being rather new to the forum I have used incorrect words before. Hey I'm the first to admit that I'm just not a very handy guy.

The truth is that I was getting concerned with all the pounding and should have stopped earlier and posted for help.

You guys are great and I appreciate you all :)
 
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has anyone evere tried to spray something like WD 40 on the pins before trying to take them out, being both are plastic (grip and pin but the frame is aluminum, I would think the freezing part might be in the pin and frame . Never tried it myself, as my pins have always came out with no problem, but maybe some type of penetrating spray might just help-alittle. ???
 

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  Okay! Let's see if I understand this correctly: You had the Armalaser on your old P3AT, but removed it so it could go back in for service. Kel-Tec sent you back a brand new gun with your serial number on it.

  When you tried to remove the front pin, it went in just a little and then wouldn't budge, even though you were working from the proper side. Then the aluminum frame cracked at the front, near the pin.

  Here's what I think happened, and it is truly a shame!

  Somehow, when the pin went in just a little, the force of the punch got transferred to the frame. If the punch was just a little off perpendicular, that's all it would take. Hitting the frame peened over the metal around the pin and locked it in.

  subsequent attempts finally caused the frame to crack. The only solution will be to send the whole works back to KT again. Too Bad! I'm sure they will fix it for you (free) though.

  I did something like this once, admitted it was my fault, and told them to bill my credit card. They repaired it for free though. Nobody does service better than Kel-Tec!

  If you call and talk to service they might even agree to install the laser for you.

Packer.
 

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  If it WAS only the frame then he is in a much better position, but would still have to get the pin out. What is keeping that pin in? How did the grip crack at the muzzle, when all the force would be back at the pin area?

  Did it crack on the opposite side, caused by the roll of tape against the weaker "dust cover" at the front of the grip? Even if it wasn't the frame that cracked, it still might be the frame metal peened around the pin that is locking it in.

  Kwesi, we need more info.

Packer.
 

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It's no big deal - just an inconvenience fortunately thanks to KT often no questions policy about self-inflicted wounds (they can do this since the gun costs them 42 cents to make. :))  He just has to wait now for a new grip.

The pounding with the hammer took its toll on the weakest link it would seem.  It's hard to say where to expect a crack in this case as many variables apply.  Fact of the matter is, the P3 pins are a bit over-sized (no worry about them walking out from recoil) and they are not the easiest things to remove and replace.  And tolerances vary between pin holes and the pins themselves.  Hey, we're talkin' KT here not Rolex.  Nothing wrong with that but you get my drift.  Rule of thumb - it's a good idea to keep extrea grip pins on hand and secondly, don't force anything.  I better than anyone know my limitations - as I am fond of saying, my tool kit at home consists of a butter knife and the Yellow Pages.  If I can't fix it with the butter knifie, I grab the Yellow Pages.  ;D

An application of WD-40, etc. on the pin you wish to remove/replace is not a bad idea.

KT no doubt will send him back a new grip and all will be well again.

The P3AT and the Armalaser are a great combo and once you get everything settled in, you are going to enjoy it.
 

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Unlike Kraigster 414, I could never hold onto my butterknife and finally lost it. Seriously, unlike most of the members of this forum, I just shoot guns I don't fix them. I rely on mother KT and so far it has worked for me so I would follow Packer's advice. Isn't it good to have a spare?
 

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  Well, most of the time at least, Kster. I'm not so sure how Mamma would receive my PF-11. I think that would be considered out-of-warranty. I don't need ten fingers to count up the parts that are still stock.

Packer.
 
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