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this is for theory, (an instructional discussion) and in no way a recomendation

the travel can be reduced in two places
1) increase the radius of the trigger arm to the trigger bar.  therefore less trigger rotation will provide the horizonal travel of the trigger bar need to rotate the hammer.  this is a simple lever ratio, so like for any lever, if you get more throw, you'll need more force.  so the trigger travel will be less, but harder to pull.  since the travel of the trigger bar is the same, the hammer will strike with the force.
this would require the manufactoring of a new trigger with the changes to pin location, and grinding to the frame for the increased arm radius

2) reduce the dwell of the hammer to the trigger bar.  this is not the radius but the contact face of the hammer.  thus as the trigger rotates, it will disengage the trigger bar with less travel.  this will reduce the hamer striking force since it was not pulled back as far.  the timing with the trigger block may need to be adjusted, there is suffecient seperation to allow a pretty significant reduction in hammer dwell.  the block could be removed.  the hammer surfaces were harden to reduce wear, so for the area where metal was removed will need to heat treated once desired pull is obtained
since the lever ratio stays the same as original, the trigger pull force will be the same just shorter with increased over travel
the over travel can be reduced with a behinf the trigger stop
to compensate for possible light strikes a heaveir hammer spring can be made.  increasing the hammer spring will increase the force needed to pull the trigger
 
unclestinky said:
All of the local shops I've talked to are willing to do it ..
do IT or try?
I would recomend accurately measuring what they start with so you can tell if it is really an improvement, or it just feels better confermation
 
On the P-11, it is possible to shorten the trigger pull by removing some material from the correct place on the hammer, therefor causing it to release from the trigger bar sooner, thereby shortening the necessary rearward travel of the trigger. This also lightens the trigger pull somewhat since the the hammer spring is tensioned a bit less before releasing than it would be under normal circumstances.
http://www.1bad69.com/keltec/triggertravel.htm

However, the P-11 has a hammer spring that is approximately twice the pull of the P3AT. The trigger pulls on the two guns are about 10 lb (P-11) vs 5 lb (P3AT). Since the P3AT doesn't really have any spare hammer spring power, doing that same modification on the P3AT would likely induce light strikes making the gun unreliable. Good luck. :-/
 
unclestinky said:
..it's just 3-4mm of trigger travel...
what is this 3 -4 mm are you referring to? if this the reduction you want (probaliy can get just with a little sanding/polishing) or desired total stroke?

JFB said:
I don't quite know what you are asking :-?
But here is what I feel WRT to trigger travel (as measured at center trigger)

with the hammer reset ( the face about 30 degrees past TDC
about 0.2" (5mm) travel with only 1# pull, then the pull changes to 5#
as the trigger is pulled now, the hammer is going back towards 90 degress past TDC
after another 0.4" (10mm) travel (0.6" (15mm) total travel) at 5 to 6# pull, the hammer falls (goes about 10 degress foward of TDC) and the pull changes back to 1#
another 0.1" (3mm) and trigger is all the way back.

I can now stroke the trigger foward and back the 0.7" (18mm) total travel with 1# pull.
 
TxCajun said:
.. the P-11 has a hammer spring that is approximately twice the pull of the P3AT.  ..
I wonder, could the P11 spring fit in the P3 grips...this would save a gunsmith from having to make uncle stinky a new one?

TxCajun said:
On the P-11, it is possible to shorten the trigger pull by removing some material from the correct place on the hammer, therefor causing it to release from the trigger bar sooner
rethinking this change. the total trigger travel will stay the same since there was no "gain change, ie lever ratio", just a reduction in dwell. the intial take up of the trigger before it contacts the hammer will increase the amount the effective trigger pull decreases. so now a foward trigger stop will be needed

if uncle stinky's desire is to only reduce total trigger travel 3mm, then a rear trigger stop will reduce it that much
 
Thanks for all the suggestions :)

I'm not concerned about over-travel on the trigger...I just need the hammer to come down with about 3-5mm less travel on the trigger. The trigger naturally hits a spot on my finger where it's just hard to curl my finger any further to pull through. I can readjust, but on rapid fire drills it hangs me up pretty bad.

Right now, take-up on the trigger is about 4mm, and the hammer breaks at about 22mm.

Thanks again...
 
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